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jyl jyl is offline
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Some bicycle powder coating Q's

I need to prepare a bicycle frame for powder coating.



Couple questions:

1. What is the easiest way to strip off the paint? I'm hoping for some chemical stripper that will be savage, effortless, but good for baby dolphins and spotted owls.

2. How smoothly sanded should parts be for powder coating? I'm thinking polishing is not critical, and that a little "tooth" is desirable?

3. If there are dents and pits to fill (there are) can I just use auto body filler?

4. Anyone know a frame builder in Portland OR who can install some braze-ons - cable stops and guides, bottle mounts. For not a ton of money? This is my 40+ year old Peugeot G50 (juvenile model) for my son, not a PX10 or something.

(The frame uses soft metal staples, pinned into the frame, folded over the cable housings - ick. I could use screw-clamp cable stops and clamps, which would be period-appropriate, but I am not sure I will do a period-faithful restoration . . .)

5. Finally, here is the bicycle registration sticker from 1971.



My dad remembers taking me to the Vancouver police station to register my new bike. I like having this bit of personal history on the bike. Would you (a) try to peel off the sticker and glue it to the restored frame, patina and all, under some clear coat, (b) photograph and re-create the sticker minus 40 years of damage, (c) get real and skip the cruddy old sticker already.
Old 03-03-2012, 08:29 AM
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Can the powder coating place sandblast it? Get the rotating parts out of there and cover bearing surfaces with duct tape. Sandblast then recover with the high temp tape before coating.

I don't think filler would endure the baking process. Braze then file/sand.

Pass on the sticker other than the photo idea.
Old 03-03-2012, 08:50 AM
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I just took all removable parts off...and dropped it off.

Frame and Forks

They sandblasted it and powder coated it, I think it was 85
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyl View Post
I need to prepare a bicycle frame for powder coating.
Couple questions:

1. What is the easiest way to strip off the paint? I'm hoping for some chemical stripper that will be savage, effortless, but good for baby dolphins and spotted owls.

2. How smoothly sanded should parts be for powder coating? I'm thinking polishing is not critical, and that a little "tooth" is desirable?

3. If there are dents and pits to fill (there are) can I just use auto body filler?

4. Anyone know a frame builder in Portland OR who can install some braze-ons - cable stops and guides, bottle mounts. For not a ton of money? This is my 40+ year old Peugeot G50 (juvenile model) for my son, not a PX10 or something.

(The frame uses soft metal staples, pinned into the frame, folded over the cable housings - ick. I could use screw-clamp cable stops and clamps, which would be period-appropriate, but I am not sure I will do a period-faithful restoration . . .)

5. Finally, here is the bicycle registration sticker from 1971.



My dad remembers taking me to the Vancouver police station to register my new bike. I like having this bit of personal history on the bike. Would you (a) try to peel off the sticker and glue it to the restored frame, patina and all, under some clear coat, (b) photograph and re-create the sticker minus 40 years of damage, (c) get real and skip the cruddy old sticker already.
1). There are 'green' strippers available, go to an autobody supply store for help.

2). Depends on how smooth you want the frame. One good thing about curved surfaces is they are always smoother appearing than flat surfaces.

3). The heat reply may be true but even if it would take the heat the powder will not adhere to it. Powder coatings are applied electrostaticly. body filler is not conductive.

4). I don't

5). b
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:10 AM
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I like Radioactives answer. When I worked for an outfit that powdercoated bikes on a production basis, they were new. I think the electrostatic attraction would be foiled with bondo. Yes, a little tooth is fine as powder coat is thick goop.

Sticker? I don't know.

Braze ons? There are a bunch of frame builders in Portland. Not sure how to find them. How hard can it be to braze some cable stops? If you can buy the braze ons you just need a torch. Perhaps a local weld shop could do this?

Good luck,
Larry
Old 03-03-2012, 02:43 PM
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John, I've never used them, but a good place to start looking for someone to do braze-ons is Sweetpea cycles, they are close to us on NE Vancouver. At least she could give you some advice. The decal looks like a water slide decal. Take a picture straight on, give me the dimensions, and maybe something good will come from my computer. I think waterslide media for inkjets is available. No guarantees, but I'll try.
I would just let the powdercoater sandblast the frame. When the oven gets warm, the powder flows into the texture. Comes out smooth. Have them cover the bearing surfaces; tape and plugs are available; and tell them the color. There is a powdercoater by us over on NE 33rd, by the DMV (other side of Columbia. Color FX, no affiliation, give'em a call. I've had good luck, but you have to work around the owners' hours - I think he closes at 3PM every day!
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:05 PM
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We've used JB Weld-Bond on metal to be powdercoated. Still own the pieces and it's been more than ten years with no ill effects.

They now make products specifically for smoothing metal prior to powder coating. Ask your coater about them.

I would let the coater do the sandblast. Skip the paint strip, sand blast is quick/easy and leaves a great clean surface for the powder. Again, ask the coater for their recommendations.

By the way, you'll love when you're done. I had the bike in the picture below powder coated about 7 or 8 years ago. The white you see are decals I put over the powder coat.

angela

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Old 03-03-2012, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radioactive View Post
I just took all removable parts off...and dropped it off.

Frame and Forks

They sandblasted it and powder coated it, I think it was 85
Where do you get sandblasting done around here, and how much for a frame? I am just too lazy to sand it. The paint is perfect. I just want my company name on the downtube. Traditional single color paint and clear coat. Doing that myself if time allows. That will be a five year project.

Last edited by look 171; 03-03-2012 at 09:24 PM..
Old 03-03-2012, 09:16 PM
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Note...make sure you get the coater to tape-up any threads.
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Old 03-03-2012, 10:44 PM
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A hot tip on powder coating bicycle frames:
Not suggested to do this with aluminum frames. It removes the heat treating, and turns the frameset into putty. This is dependent, of course, on the powder coater's heat temp range - and perhaps could be pulled off. But, a buddy of mine tried this - and basically destroyed the frame.
Old 03-04-2012, 08:26 AM
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there are so many frame builders in portland, that can do frame repair/braze ons for you. vertigo, pereira, ira ryan, even chris king is back to building frames under the brand cielo. not sure he does repair work for others, tho. post pics of the bike when you are done restoring it.
Old 03-04-2012, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NutmegCarrera View Post
A hot tip on powder coating bicycle frames:
Not suggested to do this with aluminum frames. It removes the heat treating, and turns the frameset into putty. This is dependent, of course, on the powder coater's heat temp range - and perhaps could be pulled off. But, a buddy of mine tried this - and basically destroyed the frame.
The bike in question here is steel - so no issues. Mine is aluminum and has had no issues. The big thing with aluminum is that the T-6061 that they are made of COULD be damaged by the heat in the oven if certain conditions are met (according to bicycle lore). But isn't aluminum annealed at something like 775 degrees for 2 or 3 hours? versus 390-ish for 10-15 minutes for powder coating?

IF the oven is excessively hot.

IF the oven is run excessively long.

If both those conditions are met, then you could change the properties of the alumimum frame possibly. Kona is one manufacturer that does not powder coat nor recommend it. Others, especially small makers, powder coat all the time, e.g. Sycip, Wolfhound, etc.

If the oven were at a full 400 degrees (the high range for powder coating) and you left it in the oven for hours, that could be a problem... But many powder coats cure at much lower temperatures, some as low as 325 and they are usually at full temp 10-15 minutes. I will say that I did have an item destroyed by a powder coater. It was a STEEL core support for a car. It was heated so high and left in the oven so long that it literally warped the core support and melted the metal at the edges... So serious screwups CAN happen. I cannot even imagine how hot that oven got to do that to steel core support. But it was WAY the hell over 400 degrees...

If you're concerned with an alumimum frame, check with the coater and express your worries. Always better to try a different craftsman if you "don't get a good feeling" from the one you initially selected.

The pink bike in my previous post is my 24 hour race bike. Yes - 24 hours - cross country. If there were a problem, this bike, of all bikes, would have given up long ago. The frame and rear triangle are both powder coated. This was, is, and I think will continue to be for a very long time - a GREAT riding machine.

angela
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:57 PM
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I build bikes as a hobby and also powdercoat.

1. I'd suggest just using aircraft stripper on the paint. If you want to go granola, I've actually had good results using Soy based stripper but it takes more coats (google "Soy-Gel Paint Stripper").

I'd avoid blasting the paint off since you could thin out the tubing.

2. Let the powdercoater put the 'profile' on the metal. Likely a 120 blast from a distance and knocked down with 180/220 grit. they will then likely iron/phosphate it during the cleaning process.

3. You can use a little jb weld, but if you are going to take it to a frame builder to add some braz-ons, they can fill it with silver if its big. You can also use jb weld or something like this.... High Temp Lab Metal Filler

Discuss it with your powder coater.

4. There are a ton of builders in portland. What you are asking to do is not complex.

5. no clue about the sticker. it wont hold up to powder clear though.

Finally... take it to a coater that does bike frames and aftter you are done treat the frame with 'framesaver' or some other rust protection.

Sounds like a fun project... i enjoy it a lot...

Old 03-04-2012, 05:36 PM
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I have had a lot of bike parts powder coated over the years, including aluminum frames. Most good powder coaters do the stripping themselves, depending on the part, media blast or chemical strip. The reason is if they are going to warranty their work, they want to make sure it is prepped correctly. What you need to do is remove all cups & hardware as well as the decals (try & save as much of the bicycle registration sticker as you can & have it reproduced).

PowderTech-Plus has been doing my coating since the 80s, and the aluminum frames I have had coated were BMX & MTB, and I have been known to ride pretty hard and the one pictured below had launched some very big jumpings (that 17Xs wouldn't jump, but a fat old gray haired me did)


Now remember, if they don't use plugs on the threaded holes,you will have to re-tap them, and the seat post & head set cups, if not plugged, may need a light sanding to be able to fit the cups & post back in. If you have dents in the frame, there is a "filler" powder that works great and if you want a real shiny finish, have them clear coat it. My Robinson is a custom faded, with 2 colors & them a clear, plus, all the black parts were coated ope this helps
https://www.facebook.com/pages/PowderTech-Plus-Inc/307225113250

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PowderTech Plus Inc. is your one stop powder coating headquarters. From one off specialty pieces to full production runs we can handle it all.
Housed within a modern 10,000 square foot facility, we offer: sand blasting, our own special metal preperation to insure a long lasting and durable finish, material handling of large pieces and two ovens. One measures 6'x8'x12' with the second measuring 9'x9.5'x29.5'.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:24 PM
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Thanks all.

Einreb, if you wanted to talk more about your bike building and post some porn, I for one would like it.

I keep reminding myself this is my son's bike, not mine. So he and I will go to the powder coater next week and he will pick out the color. I fear he's not going to pick the original white, or even one of the original Peugeot colors (whte, red, blue, champagne). Probably its going to end up some hideous Scooby Doo grape. I'm going to stay calm and pat him on the head, as I grind my molars into dust.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:08 PM
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On the other hand, he might pick Porsche True Blue or Viper Green, Signal, etc.

Could be something really cool! I don't have a picture of the other bike I powder coated. It was an old aluminum road bike. That one was yellow pearl. Very pretty.

But I'm still wickedly partial to my pink bike.

angela
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:49 PM
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I wanted a pink bike back in the mid to late 80s. I was doing some serious training back then. My friend would joke about how I can't let em' catch me if go out on a break and actually stay away, or else, the Siht talking will not stop for as long as I live. They never had my size, thank goodness. It was a pink Casati, instead I got am off pearly yellow one. Not only did they catch me all the time, but gave me a good beating daily.
Old 03-05-2012, 10:25 PM
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Here are some frames I have had coated..
Black

Candy Red


Cherry Red


Candy Blue



There are tons of cool colors to chose from..
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:55 AM
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get it sand blasted before powder coating

there are a few frame builders in portland

contact my brother in portland and he can refer a frame builder he knows up there

Jay Sycip [cielo@chrisking.com]
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Old 03-06-2012, 01:36 PM
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Thanks, all - for the (ahem) corrections on powder coating.
All I know is that many powder coat shops are not bike shops, and do not understand tempering / annealing.
I agree that it can be done - just doesnt mean that everyone can do it.

In any case, have fun with your hobby - whether a 911, a 924, or heaven forbid - a mustang.

By the way -
I just got our (for my wife and daughter) tandem put together. Picked up a Trek T900 from a rental shop - and the entire drivetrain was thrashed. New cogset, lots of cleaning work, new brake calipers and rapidfire levers - and we're good to go. This way, my wife and 8yo daughter can pull the little dude (5yo) on the trail-a-bike while I'm away at work.

Sorry for the o.t. ramble, but thought I'd try to contribute something...
I can post pics (once I take a couple), if any interest.

Cheers!
Old 03-06-2012, 06:15 PM
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