Optics question 10/22
 

I've always been an iron sights guy but I found a killer deal on a nice Nikon scope for my newer 10/22.

I asked questions but I seem to have an issue with height adjustment. They suggested low/short scope rings.

I went to the local range and the max is 75 yards. L/R is is no issue. Head shots will hit chest area on a standard target. I am at max adjustment for height.....so....taller rings? My gut says so.

I need help as the ex needs a few reminders......

I have two nikon scopes. Both big size Monarch. The older one is amazing and the newer one from the Sports Warehouse (part of Amazon) is crap. Please don't do business with these arseholes. Back on topic; got it as close to the barrel as you can and have fun.

You could shim up the bottom of the front ring but I think either something is wrong with your base/ring setup or else the scope is no good.
Jim

Did you bore sight it? That would tell you if you were out of elevation right out of the box. If you don't have enough in the scope adjustment, then yes you can shim the front ring under the scope to raise it so you have enough adjustment. You can use a piece of metal, plastic, or a biz card to shim it. It's a .22 so no worries about recoil. If you need to lower it you just shim the rear ring. Jim is prolly right though it sounds like a bogus scope or base/ring set up. I assume you are using a weaver type rail mount that screws to the top of your receiver, or some type of pic rail.

My opps, I didn't read the question properly. As soon as I heard Nikon my anti Amazon hackles got raised.

Maybe take the rings off the rifle and put the front one on the back etc and remount the scope, and try sighting it in again.

Nikon Supports suggests using medium rings.....gonna give that a 'shot'.....

Before you spend you may want to try my recommendation.

Burris Zee rings have inserts available that will give you up to 40 moa adjustment....

But I've gotten other scopes on target by swapping rings front and back, as well as rotating one (or both) rings 180...

On the 10-22, shim the base where it mounts to the top of the receiver, not the rings. I think that is what everyone means, but it's an important distinction. This holds true for all one piece bases. It's really impossible to "shim" a scope ring anyway.

With two piece bases, never, ever shim a base to alter the angle of the scope to gain more or less elevation adjustment. This will missalign the rings coaxially, which will result in some strain on the scope tube (unless you are using the plastic inserts in the rings that allow for this missalignment, such as those supplied by Burris). This missalignment is often enough to break the scope, but certainly always enough to make it behave kind of funny optically - its lenses will no longer be in alignment with one another.

Joe Bob, physically raising or lowering the scope on the rifle by swapping out rings will have no affect on point of impact or the range of elevation adjustment available in the scope. If you ran out of elevation adjustment in one direction before achieving the desired point of impact, there is something amiss with either the mounting system, or internally with the scope itself. This should never happen under normal circumstances. Like our cars, find out what is really wrong before you start throwing money at it and replacing things.

One other thing - is this a rimfire specific scope? If not, you might want to consider getting one that is meant for rimfires. Parallax adjustment on centerfire rifle scopes is generally set to eliminate parallax at 200 yards (on scopes without an external adjustment). Rimfire scopes are set to eliminate parallax at much closer ranges, typically 100 yards (sometimes less). Using a centerfire scope on a .22 will mean that parallax will forever be a problem at typical rimfire ranges. Plus, if the scope proves to be the problem, you will need a new one anyway. Might as well get the right one.

Wait you all don't lap your rings?

Weaver rail, four set screws.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1332199150.jpg

Is the scope resting on the rear iron sight? It looks pretty close. My Weaver rings set the scope up quite a bit higher.

Pretty close....but no. These rings were recommended by Optisales, the retailer for the Nikon for the 10/22.

I'm going to use a different site in tech and take some shims next out. Also a better bench rest and a friend to twist the top adjuster while I hold the rifle and scope steady.

and you have a bore sighter?

Of course. However, if you shim either the front or rear base (and not the other) on two piece bases, you'll be line boring them.SmileWavy

Not talking about shimming, talking about making sure the rings are true.

Unless you are planning on using the scope as a carry handle, I'd get it closer to the barrel.

That rear mount looks a bit wonky, is it on straight? Also check your documentation as there may be a front mount and a back mount. There was for my Sako. I have about half a mm between the scope and the barrel which is a nice fit.

A minor hijack if you please.

I have a Nikon 223 specific scope on the LAR. But the reach/throw on the butt stock is a bit short suchthat I get a dark ring in the ocular when the butt stock is in tight. I have to move the rifle forward a bit to get the proper eye relief.

Should I use a butt stock pad or should I move the scope?

move the scope if you can. Move the rings if you have to. I have noticed that when setting up a 50mm scope that the 1" section of the tubes are short. You may have to go to an offset ring on one end or the other. Sometimes both. My experience with so called "sporting guns' the LAR may be another animal. Not that it is not a sporting gun., but you know what I mean.

I think we are on the same page, but the other guys were suggesting shimming to correct elevation. Done improperly, I can't think of a better way to ruin a scope.