Quick baseboard + laminate floor question
 

I have a small section of wall that is a little off-kilter from the rest; it's between two doors, and there's a bit more of a gap between the flooring and the walling thatn everywhere else. Should I handle this with a wider baseboard, or should I cut a super-thin piece of laminate and try to slip it in there?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1335389776.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1335389805.jpg

I would go with the wider baseboard. It's fairly common o leave a small gap for expansion.

thick baseboard

I'd go thick baseboard. If you do decide to place a thin piece of laminate, place it along side the wall and place your pencil in a metal washer and roll along the wall as you scribe/ mark the laminate. This will reproduce the uneveness of the wall onto your workpiece.

Certainly a wider baseboard is easier.

But, are you replacing all baseboard? If you have a wider section that differs from other walls, will it be obvious? Maybe the super-slim piece makes the rest of your project go a little better? Knowing what you've told me, I'd prob go with the super-slim piece.

Baseboard plus a baseshoe is the classic way.

1/4 round and shoe mold are different. Shoe is typically taller than it is wide. Shoe mold looks better in my opinion.

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Baseboard + shoe - you'll never tell and it'll look clean.

Do it the right way and slice a piece of laminate.
Wider or furred base will make the base proud where it ties into the jamb casings.

Shoe can be 1/2 x 3/8 or 3/4 x 1/2 with a very gentle round over, the radius being about 1/4.

I broke down and ripped a small strip to patch in. What a PITA! Cutting it was easy; getting it to click in was difficult.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1335494985.jpg

hey! that is just Unix 5 in drag

I've heard 1/8" gap to the wall is correct for expansion, and easy to cover.

Also, use a flexible "Japanese" saw to cut the door mouldings up slightly so they don't restrict expansion.
Lay the thing on a hard/thick slippery plastic surface to protect the floor.

I've put on the baseboard, which would not have even come close to covering the gap; if you look close you can see the line between the two planks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1337469375.jpg

Was there a sale on brad nails, or do you simply enjoy using the nailer? :p

Otherwise, good job. The baseboard without shoe or quarter-round looks clean.

Set the brads with a nailset. Putty and paint.

3/8" to 1/2" gap for traditional floors.

Thanks for the correction, I was probably thinking of the thin engineered flooring.

Materials expand differently. Natural wood swells more across the grain than lengthwise. That expensive underlayment with a gap helps bubbles and pops in the tight, noticeable places. It's worth it to tape the seams well and pay a little more for something that let's the wood slide.

As a caveate, a moisture barrier is only a bandaid and may make the material below(subflooring/joists) mold and rot.

Moisture control is important as well:
-Too little moisture during the winter (for us northerners), and huge shrinkage/gaps appear.
-Too little moisture, and the gaps can clash, buckle and pop up in waves across the surface.