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Kwikset is indeed crap! I have Baldwin locks in my home. Funny thing is that a Schlage key goes right into a Balwin lock cylinder. Whats up with that? They must be owned by the same company. The only reason I know this is that my work place lock is Schlage and I have (by habit) inserted my Balwin key into the Schlage cylinder.
A friend of mine has a good saying "Good doors and good fences make a good neighbor, but good doors and good locks keep a man honest. " |
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Jado makes a very nice residential lock, but they are just as much as Baldwin. Russwin IMO makes a heck of a commercial lock set.
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Lock bumping - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Quote:
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All are junk as the potmetal castings wear rapidly. From experience in years of home building, Kwikset is the bottom of the heap and for a hope case, I've installed Schlage better grade products. Back to Kwikset... for fun and if you a have a good strong grip on the door knob, you can twist that sucker right off or break it loose. Also, none of them have a long enough deadbolt. During construction, we'd have sets of the cheap brands and after all is completed, painting, etc. new higher quality locksets and doorknobs, etc. would then be installed.
Most residential homes won't have commercial grade steel jamb, steel solid doors and the surrounding framing, studs are wood. Adding a tougher entrance mildly deters but better than going the cheap route. Dumb thieves will attempt and if a little hard on them, will move onto the next but of course, as already mentioned any common dwelling can be broken by a swift kick or crowbar.... or simply break out a window, whatever. Two ways to look at it. If you have perhaps a second vacation home like a cabin with nominal valuables / furniture, etc. and empty for most of the year, there's no sense in making it super secure. A thief will make more damage to the structure from the break-in. Steel jamb will kink, rip partial out the framing studs, wall board, etc. vs. a cheap wooden jamb. So regardless, with the cheap wood jamb they will enter but with less damage to the door and surrounding structure. Drifting off the topic a bit but since were talking locks, a few years ago I purchased a $35.00 Master Lock padlock USA made and heavy sheathed cable for my snowmobile. During one of those 200 mile minus 10 degree day rides, the lock as normal was carried in the storage compartment. That night I was ready to lock the sleds together but found the padlock had vibrated apart into pieces! POS! |
Two BIL's have been locksmiths for decades. The hot ticket USED to be Medeco. They had a standing offer of $10k to anyone that could pick their lock open. Their keys not only had different height cuts, but different bevel angles on those cuts. These days I don't know who's top dog, but Medeco should at least be on your radar.
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so remove my Kwikset locks and try to find Medeco?
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I have Medeco. Trying to remember the other one, but it's not coming to me. Key says Zeiss Ikon. Have no idea what that means.
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We have Schlage on our house. |
thx - I meant for exterior doors
BTW - when I bought this house it had hollow core interior doors being used for all the exterior doors - even the front door! talk about heat loss and not security |
My information is dated, so relative quality between manufacturers has likely changed. You'd be best off asking a locksmith about this. I can pm you my BIL's contact information if you'd like an informed, unbiased opinion.
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No lock is going to keep someone out of your home, you don't want one that can be beaten without tools but spending much beyond that is silly. If they show up with tools to get in....they'll be getting in no matter what kind of locks you have. They may get frustrated and kick the jamb in or bust a window but they will be getting in.
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There are tricks to securing your doors without getting extreme. Terry sells a combination strike plate and barrel with really long screws. The barrel keeps the latch from breaking thru the back of the strike plate, and the screws secure it deep into the stud work beneath the jamb. If you've got a solid core door with a proper strike plate arrangement, you'll need a battering ram to break it down. You won't do it with your shoulder.
I think in a lot of instances, if someone needs to beat repeatedly on the door to break in they're drawing too much attention and will leave. Of course, if they don't give a s**t, they'll find a way to defeat your security. |
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Yup, I built a residential subdivision in the '90s and I had to use a Best lock for the fire entrance. The city requires Best in their ordinance. They are so over engineered it's incredible.
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Spend your money on motion sensor activated video, live to net. Also really loud on site alarms with lights. The latter before the former. |
My Kwikset entry locks have that pin in the latch that is supposed to stop the latch from being retracted if they are in the jam - and allow it to be pushed in when the door closes. Well, several of the pins have broken or simply fit into the striker plate with the latch. This allows me to easily use a credit card to jimmy them - faster than a key. I've replaced several - the pot metal breaks too easily. I use the deadbolts when I want to add more than this minimal security. Poorly made locks installed sloppily.
As our neighborhood sees more opportunity thefts we have tightened up security - locking the side gate, keeping the garage doors closed and throwing the exterior and garage deadbolts, sliding glass door pins etc. But I still like the opportunity to open the read garage mandoor doors easily when I don't have the carkeys with me..... |
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