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Removing these carb cover screws - any suggestions?

I have a pair of carbs off a 1995 Seadoo jetski that I cannot remove the screws from the one diaphragm cover. The other one came off fine. I've sprayed PB blaster a couple times, used a ratchet for torque, 2 people, no luck. Any thoughts to how I can get these screws off?




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Old 07-14-2012, 05:29 PM
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Impact driver.
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Old 07-14-2012, 05:31 PM
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You may be able to grab two of those screws from the outside with a small pair of vice grips. First, I would put a phillips screwdriver in the slots, and give them a few firm whacks with a hammer, this will sometimes help to break the bond.
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Old 07-14-2012, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by fastfredracing View Post
Impact driver.
+1 on the impact driver
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:07 PM
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Also you can try putting a stout screwdriver into the screw and giving it couple of sharp whacks with a hammer to shock the screw, but THIS is the tool...
Old 07-14-2012, 06:17 PM
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I think this would be better to use.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/images/208EPIT.jpg

Dave
Old 07-14-2012, 06:25 PM
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oddly enough I had this same problem today. I just drilled the heads off.
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:03 PM
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Use the snap on, while I love those makitas, they have a propensity to break screws like this....
Old 07-14-2012, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfredracing View Post
you may be able to grab two of those screws from the outside with a small pair of vice grips.
+1
Old 07-14-2012, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porsche4life View Post
Use the snap on, while I love those makitas, they have a propensity to break screws like this....
Absolutely. And brace the carb so the impact is transferred to the screw and not so much the whole unit. Might place it on a shot bag.
Old 07-14-2012, 09:00 PM
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Another thing too, sometimes if you tighten the screw before you back it out that helps.
2. Maybe if you have a heat gun apply localized heat to the screws to soften the paint.

Dave
Old 07-14-2012, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfredracing View Post
Impact driver.
The man is wise....................................he must be old.
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Old 07-15-2012, 01:08 AM
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Umm, a whole lota heat without setting fire to the thing. Plus the impact driver mentioned above.
Old 07-15-2012, 12:43 PM
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I was initially afraid of using an impact driver as I thought it would strip the screw. But that ended up happening other way - so I had nothing to lose. I was pounding square tips into the top of the screw trying to get something to hold. I was pretty much at the end of the life of the screw head when it finally came out. Oh so lucky!

Thanks guys for the tips!


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Old 07-15-2012, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E38Driver View Post
I think this would be better to use.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/images/208EPIT.jpg

Dave
Having used both, I totally disagree. You have the option of choosing how much power you want to hammer into it.

Maybe I am just a lucky guy.

Last edited by DanielDudley; 07-15-2012 at 01:19 PM..
Old 07-15-2012, 01:17 PM
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One other trick to remember when removing phillips head screws is if the screw head is worn is to wet a phillips bit and dip the bit in comet and then unscrew it. The comet fills the worn out portion of the metal in the screw head and gives you a better bite on the screw. Something I learned many years ago as a helicopter crew chief.

Dave
Old 07-15-2012, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielDudley View Post
Having used both, I totally disagree. You have the option of choosing how much power you want to hammer into it.

Maybe I am just a lucky guy.
The key to using that tool is to use the correct hammer for the correct amount of force.

With the carb screws I would go with a 16oz ball peen and light to medium force. If you have the twist already into the impact it should not take too much impact to loosen the screw.
Just my two cents, and I did not stay at a Holiday Inn last night.

Dave
Old 07-15-2012, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E38Driver View Post
One other trick to remember when removing phillips head screws is if the screw head is worn is to wet a phillips bit and dip the bit in comet and then unscrew it. The comet fills the worn out portion of the metal in the screw head and gives you a better bite on the screw. Something I learned many years ago as a helicopter crew chief.

Dave
Valve lapping compound works this way also.
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielDudley View Post
Having used both, I totally disagree. You have the option of choosing how much power you want to hammer into it.

Maybe I am just a lucky guy.
I could sink a ship with the number of screws and bolts that our guys have broken with those makitas over the years..... And I'm not talking pissy little screws either.....


Don't get me wrong, they are excellent, but they are not good in a delicate application....

It would be like trying to do brain surgery with a machete.....
Old 07-15-2012, 04:30 PM
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Usually its not a issue of force, but grip. I worked on everything from jet aircraft to bicycles and all the lesson that entails(good and bad). As stated, You are dealing with Al castings on expensive parts. I would be real careful using exceesive force. Phillips are designed to cam out. Invest in a ACR phillips hand driver, if that don't work.. The time it took you to type your message I would have safely drilled it out.


Last edited by romad; 07-16-2012 at 07:15 AM..
Old 07-16-2012, 06:26 AM
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