everything requires work, this would just be a little bit different. your material cost would be higher and more talent is required.

Wiring a panel for 220V isnt difficult, but if you don't know what you are doing, its best to hire an electrician.

Getting a 220V shock hurts.

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+100000 on this.

Did someone mention hiring a licensed, bonded electrician yet?

I don't consider the pic on the first page was "alarmist", FWIW. On only several properties, I've personally found melted outlets and wires half burned through. Why they didn't catch on fire was only a flip of the coin.

Insurance companies will view the fire report and cancel your buttocks before this sentence has been ty..........
"Oh. So sorry. You f'ked up. Bye-bye."

When I bought my house in '96 one of the first things I did was to run 220v down to the garage.

My house sits on a 'dune ridge' with the garage at ground level but still connected to the house - just barely. I have steps going up to my front door. Anyway, the electrician had to run a line from the breaker box in the kitchen [located at the back of the house] all the way down to the garage.

It really wasn't that expensive but well worth the $ to have 220 down there. I wanted it to run my irrigation pump but now that it's there I could run a window AC/heat unit or whatever.

I can't provide any technical info as electricity is not my forte but just wanted to mention my experience FWIW.

BTW, this electrician and I have continued to work together since in the area - I use him to wire irrigation stuff for me on my jobs. Glad I met him when he did that first job at my house.

If you're going to do anything beyond hand wrenching in your garage, you will need a dedicated 220v feed and sub panel. It's not difficult but it will take some time, energy and money. If you have room in your main panel for say a 60 amp breaker, in our code you would probably run #4 armored aluminum wire through an underground conduit to a sub panel in the garage and supply your whole garage with power from that panel. I have to say that I'm not an electrician but in the course of my job I often contract electricians to do this type of work and have done it on my own place. Thing is, many compressors, lifts, welders, etc require 220v. You could probably minimize costs by digging the trench and doing some of the non technical prep. Good luck.

I presume usually on a circuit with more or less a continuous load or frequent use. But, they didn't catch fire, according to your empirical findings. Damaged and overloaded wiring does get hot. A breaker doesn't sense a loose connection arcing.

I'm not an electrician by trade but I've installed my share of electrical wiring in both commercial and residential. I learn about electrical every week.

I don't think you're much past me in this regard.

I've been around for a few years, seen a lot things and yet have never heard of an ins co denying a claim outright and altogether because of faulty workmanship. If, however, you are referring to an ins co simply dropping coverage because of a claim, turn in a claim for a tree going through your large window. Likely you won't get renewed.

So, your point is somewhat moot.

On hiring a licensed, bonded tradesperson, that is usually assumed. Especially with regard to electrical work. Or are we now the contractor police?

"A breaker doesn't sense a loose connection arcing.

The new arc fault detection circuit breakers do sense a loose connection arcing and will trip. They are now required by the national electrical code in nearly every non-GFI circuit in residential construction or remodeling that isn't grandfathered. They are rather expensive due to the circuit sensing - they can tell the difference between an arc burning in a loose connection compared to an arc in a switch being operated, or motor brushes operating or pulling out a plug under load. They are $35 to $50 each. Rather expensive to populate a 40 circuit load center. Their use also precludes the use of shared neutrals in some instances.

I use my dryer connection for my welder and compressor ... Just can't dry clothes or weld while I'm running the compressor:D:D

Why would anyone advise anyone on how to wiring a house unless you were a bonded electrician license in the same state?

Seriously?
How long have you been here?

Quote:

Originally Posted by romad (Post 6885226) Why would anyone advise anyone on how to wiring a house unless you were a bonded electrician license in the same state?

Post of the Day?

Obviously an observance of local code requirements should be encouraged but since the OP asked if he could get away with two 110v circuits.....not good, most of us have tried to steer him in the right direction even if the details of his local code may be somewhat different than what is described. Depth of trench, ground prep under drive ways, types of allowed conduit, concrete over conduit may all be very local code details. Cheers

This thread gives me a headache. Do you not a friend who can come and help you? It's not rocket science.

The general approach can be divined over the internet, but the devil is in the details.....

And as a general rule: If you can't use a multimeter to answer your basic question about phasing, then you should get some hands on help.

I suppose there are maybe less than 1% of homes using these at present. While this is good info, it has nothing to do with the disastrous experiences observed due to poor wiring pre arc-fault.

Fire is a potential of bad wiring, but far more common is poor performance and the possibility of electrocution. Since there doesn't seem to be the existence of a double pole 230v GFCI breaker, the neutral and equipment ground are important.

I'm going to stray from the topic to rant a bit. While I appreciate the advances in wiring safety provided by the constantly upgraded NEC, I think it has reached a saturation point. Not allowing back stab devices and requiring minimum standards in wiring insulation were strides in the right direction, to be sure. Apparently, if unchecked and untested, the manufacturers of electrical equipment will provide us with some marginal products.

Nowadays with arc-fault requirements, you will most likely be going to the panel every time you plug in a ni-cad battery charger. Mine don't have a switch and draw current constantly, I don't know about everyone else's. So, I will have to turn off the breaker, plug it in and then turn the breaker back on. Or I suppose I can learn to line the plug up and stab in it very quickly hoping I can beat the thing. Or try with a battery not installed, but they still draw.

People will learn quickly that you can't unplug anything under load. Maybe not the end of the world, but the world becomes more of a PITA.

[/rant]

"Fire is a potential of bad wiring, but far more common is poor performance and the possibility of electrocution. Since there doesn't seem to be the existence of a double pole 230v GFCI breaker, the neutral and equipment ground are important.

I'm going to stray from the topic to rant a bit. While I appreciate the advances in wiring safety provided by the constantly upgraded NEC, I think it has reached a saturation point. Not allowing back stab devices and requiring minimum standards in wiring insulation were strides in the right direction, to be sure. Apparently, if unchecked and untested, the manufacturers of electrical equipment will provide us with some marginal products.

Nowadays with arc-fault requirements, you will most likely be going to the panel every time you plug in a ni-cad battery charger. Mine don't have a switch and draw current constantly, I don't know about everyone else's. So, I will have to turn off the breaker, plug it in and then turn the breaker back on. Or I suppose I can learn to line the plug up and stab in it very quickly hoping I can beat the thing. Or try with a battery not installed, but they still draw.

People will learn quickly that you can't unplug anything under load. Maybe not the end of the world, but the world becomes more of a PITA."



240 volt, 2 pole GFCI breakers are available, as are the 240 volt, 2 pole AFCI:


http://www.sea.siemens.com/us/internet-dms/btlv/Residential/Residential/docs_AFIC%20Circuit%20Protection/SIE_DS_GFCI.pdf


I too was worried about false trips (after reading about the early "teething problems" with these breakers) but in about two years of installed service with 30 plus AFCI's in the load center and sub panel combined we haven't had any false trips even with appliances unplugged under load. The problems may be with the early AFCI units or may be brand specific. I used Siemens breakers in a Siemens load center and sub panel - their stuff is good quality and almost a pleasure to work on.

I consider the tamper resistant receptacles more of a nuisance but I'll put up with those to keep children safer.

Good to know, Jim.

I am also of the opinion that if you do this, you should break down and run a subpanel of at least 50 amps. If you are going to run a wire, and it is a pain, run something substantial, and never do it again.

FWIW, electricians who do this every day can frequently run a line that would be impossible for you run in less than an hour, and have subpanel hooked up and done in much less than a morning.

Buy a book on home electrical wiring and read it. You will know in one hour if you want to do this or not.

... Move to Australia ;)