questions for painting contractors

[look 171]

I have not kept up with what the heck is going on with all the AQMD formulas in paint but trust my painter. I am currently working on an old house restoration. One portion of the home is remodeled about 15 years ago and all of the molding and doors are painted with oil based paint. I am responsible for the rest of the home, it will gutted and restored. All the molding will be custom milled and doors made to match existing. My question is how make sure the primer will stick to the old fashion oil based paint. Who has good results with the various primers (I like to use a water base product) and paint? My painter swears by Glidden Gripper which I also like for new work, but I have not painted over oil based woodwork in a few years. Any suggestions. Keep in mind I am in Los Angeles where paint formula changes often.

[stomachmonkey]

I have no idea but would you not want to strip the old paint so the new doors molding match better?

Meaning we can all tell when something has multiple coats of paint.

[john70t]

I've read many good things on the 'net about the Glidden Gripper primer.
That's all I can say.

Scuffing and de-glossing with a prep in good weather and application will have a great effect on the results.

For the walls, I've used the Sherman Williams eggshell/flat in the past and actually enjoyed painting the corners with darker colors.
It didn't drip and flow and run like others, and the colors stayed consistent.
Low odor as well.
(btw, I have zero affiliation with that company)

[look 171]

Those moldings was made and installed by us back then. We did all of the woodwork back then for the contractor but not the finishing or paint. We are doing a full remodel or restoration for the owner with matching woodwork for the rest of the house. It is an old Craftsman build back in the 20s. There's nothing wrong with the woodwork on the side of the house that was done 15 years back, just painting and re-sanding the floor to match the new. I do not want to pull the coffered ceiling and the wainscoting in the study. The owner will have heart attack. Most people that are not in the trade do not know why paint will not stick and knowing about formula changes and crappy paint we have today. Its hard to be a good guy while my hands are tied.

[gr8fl4porsche]

If the trim is properly cleaned and sanded, no primer is necessary. The right water based topcoat will adhere just fine. I am not familiar with CA products but see if SW in CA carries Solo. Comes in a variety of sheens and bases, flows nice and sticks like glue.

Lots of people will tell you that priming is necessary. If you believe them, try a sample first. Try with and without to see for yourself.

Clean, lightly sand, apply primer or finish, let dry for a few days and perform an adhesion test.

[gr8fl4porsche]

Paint is not crappy these days, at least not all of it. Lots of water based formulas doing better than the solvent based stuff they replace.

Of course being in CA you are probably more limited than the rest of the country ( for now, Illinois is trying to catch up quick).

The trick is to sample, test and repeat until the right product is found.

You probably can't get it but the best primer is XIM 400 for adhering to glossy surfaces.

Look at the offerings by Rust-O-Leum. Expensive, but they have some very hi-tech paint.

[Zeke]

Hey, Jeff, you know I'm a one time painting contractor turned general, turned handyman. I use Gripper or Dunn's Ultra Grip. Pretty much the same stuff. I'll tell you this, it won't come off your hands, it sticks that well.

It doesn't sand like the old primers, but when I really need a high build primer, I'll shoot some 2-part high build auto primer.

Also, you can buy Benny Moore oil based primer in quarts for your trim and today's acrylic finish coats go over that well.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by gr8fl4porsche

If the trim is properly cleaned and sanded, no primer is necessary. The right water based topcoat will adhere just fine. I am not familiar with CA products but see if SW in CA carries Solo. Comes in a variety of sheens and bases, flows nice and sticks like glue.

Lots of people will tell you that priming is necessary. If you believe them, try a sample first. Try with and without to see for yourself.

Clean, lightly sand, apply primer or finish, let dry for a few days and perform an adhesion test.

Water based paint right over oil you are suggesting?

[john70t]

Tint the primer, if other than white.

(I think)The rule is: oil over everything is ok, water over oil needs priming.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Zeke

Hey, Jeff, you know I'm a one time painting contractor turned general, turned handyman. I use Gripper or Dunn's Ultra Grip. Pretty much the same stuff. I'll tell you this, it won't come off your hands, it sticks that well.

It doesn't sand like the old primers, but when I really need a high build primer, I'll shoot some 2-part high build auto primer.

Also, you can buy Benny Moore oil based primer in quarts for your trim and today's acrylic finish coats go over that well.

Thanks Milt,

The oil based primer was what I was thinking as well, but I have heard that the oil based stuff are worthless nowadays. So, would you use Gripper or Moore's oil based primer in my situation? De-glossing that coffered ceiling is going a b!tch.

Jeff

[gr8fl4porsche]

Quote de gr8fl4porsche

If the trim is properly cleaned and sanded, no primer is necessary. The right water based topcoat will adhere just fine. I am not familiar with CA products but see if SW in CA carries Solo. Comes in a variety of sheens and bases, flows nice and sticks like glue.



Lots of people will tell you that priming is necessary. If you believe them, try a sample first. Try with and without to see for yourself.



Clean, lightly sand, apply primer or finish, let dry for a few days and perform an adhesion test.

Water based paint right over oil you are suggesting?

If you pick the right product, adhesion will be fine. Don't use a standard acrylic semi gloss formulated for walls and trim. Go for something meant to adhere to anything.

I recently finished a couple projects where existing oil based paint and varnished trim was to be coated.

Prep work was almost zero and primer was not even considered.

SW Solo on one and Porter Advantage 900 on the other. Both turned out great and you couldn't get the paint off if you tried.

[gr8fl4porsche]

Most water based precat epoxies are known to have great adhesion. I don't like their flow properties but can be used with decent results when lots of flow additives are utilized.

[craigster59]

We buy our paints here: Catalina Paints - Home

Like Milt said, Ben Moore makes oil base primer. You can also buy oil base paint, but only in quarts, and only flat or gloss. We mix if we need eggshell./ semi gloss.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by look 171

Thanks Milt,

The oil based primer was what I was thinking as well, but I have heard that the oil based stuff are worthless nowadays. So, would you use Gripper or Moore's oil based primer in my situation? De-glossing that coffered ceiling is going a b!tch.

Jeff

I've never "de-glossed anything in my life. I will wash with TSP and I'll sand, in that order. I usually dry wipe, dust or vacuum next, followed by a damp wipe. Sometimes with that damp wipe I will use a pre-packaged prep solution or make my own out of water, some lac thin or acetone and some alcohol.

I have not had any problems. Most prep work is way shy of thorough, so something oily gets left on the surface. This can be anything from cigarette smoke (not so much nowadays) to cooking grease and in between.

[look 171]

De-gloss is a mistake on my part. I mean sand with a fine grit paper. Looks like oil base primer. Its going to be a long and sticky day for the boys with that primer.