Bathroom sink, glue to vanity?

[scottmandue]

We are in the process of moving... so we drop by Home Depot for some tie downs... and of course we end up looking at bathroom sinks.

Long story short they have some nice looking sink/vanity combos at good prices and the one at my house is looking kinda tired.

OK(remove old sink and vanity), then find studs in wall, screw new vanity to wall, throw down sink, connect plumbing, white silicone bead where sink meets wall... but should I put down a bead of silicone on the top edge of the vanity before I set down the sink?

Thanks in advance!

[widebody911]

Originally Posted by scottmandue

OK(remove old sink and vanity), then find studs in wall, screw new vanity to wall, throw down sink, connect plumbing, white silicone bead where sink meets wall... but should I put down a bead of silicone on the top edge of the vanity before I set down the sink?

That's pretty much what I did when I remodelled mine a year or so ago. I bought some extra super glue @ Ace, don't recall what it was but I could find out if you need.

[scottmandue]

Thanks, I think silicone will hold it, just wondering if it should sit dry, sort of like floating it on the vanity or if it needs/should be to be glued down.

[A930Rocket]

Yes, lay down a bead of caulk before you set the vanity top down.

[look 171]

Sink and counter top as one piece? Yes to glue. We use Polyseamseal. you can get them clear or white at HomeDepot but other colors are available just not at HD. No need to glue the splash to the wall (if this is a combo unit) but a bead on top between the counter and the wall is necessary to seal out water. Clean up with sponge and water. It is much easier to deal with then silicone. Once it sets up, it isn't coming off.

[gr8fl4porsche]

Rather than a bead on top of the vanity I use globs of silicone at the corners and a couple along the rail. Generally nothing is perfectly flat so the globs do a better job.

[look 171]

Corners?

[Zeke]

Yeah, he meant the upper corners of the cabinet. Doesn't matter how you do it, just get some adhesive between the counter and the cabinet so the top doesn't move around when you lean on it. If it has an integral splash, just do the top edge and against any wall as Jeff suggested. If it comes with a splash kit, you have to glue that to the wall first and then seal the edges.

Some have an integral back splash and an optional L or R splash. Use it when applicable.

[john70t]

I think the counter top-to-wall connection is underestimated.
-If someone falls using the bowl to catch themselves, it could rip the top/carcass out with all the plumbing.
-If someone leans or sits heavily on the front edge, the same could happen.

[scottmandue]

Originally Posted by look 171

Sink and counter top as one piece? Yes to glue. We use Polyseamseal. you can get them clear or white at HomeDepot but other colors are available just not at HD. No need to glue the splash to the wall (if this is a combo unit) but a bead on top between the counter and the wall is necessary to seal out water. Clean up with sponge and water. It is much easier to deal with then silicone. Once it sets up, it isn't coming off.

Can you use that to put a bead on the splash? (Silicone is a PITA to deal with IMHO)

Yes, sink , countertop, and backsplash as one piece.

[look 171]

Yes, it is great for that. We don't even use silicone anymore on the interior.

[porwolf]

Silicone has one problem. It eventually turns black from mold that settles in it and cannot be cleaned up. In my experience old fashioned cement base grouting is the best mold resistant material. Black mold seems to only settle at the surface and can easily be cleaned with brushing on chlorine. You just have to make sure that there is no movement of the joined parts.

[scottmandue]

Originally Posted by look 171

Yes, it is great for that. We don't even use silicone anymore on the interior.

Once PPOT proves invaluable! Yes I could have searched DIY or HD website... but those are like a box o chocolates so they say.

Thanks again!

[look 171]

Originally Posted by porwolf

Silicone has one problem. It eventually turns black from mold that settles in it and cannot be cleaned up. In my experience old fashioned cement base grouting is the best mold resistant material. Black mold seems to only settle at the surface and can easily be cleaned with brushing on chlorine. You just have to make sure that there is no movement of the joined parts.

They are there, you just can't see it. when thing expand or contract the silicone or Polyseamseal will move along with it. Using a rigid material like grout, you will always have a hairline crack. Guest what's growing back there with a little water intrusion? If you are anal about thing, cut it out every few years and pour some bleach back there and re-chaulk. If there's water, there's mold. It isn't going to do you any harm. Everyone had a little mold in their house.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by scottmandue

Once PPOT proves invaluable! Yes I could have searched DIY or HD website... but those are like a box o chocolates so they say.

Thanks again!

Sometimes asking questions in those places are a PITA. A big pissing contest and you receive a lot of siht from them for being the new guy. I ask questions about PEX a number of years ago because I was thinking about using the stuff on a project for a really picky client. They did not help, but gave me grief about using a lic plumber. It was a simple question. it was so much easier just call and talk to the rep along with my plumber. I am always happy to help or share knowledge with you good folks here. You just have to deal with my two left thumb careless typing.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by porwolf

Silicone has one problem. It eventually turns black from mold that settles in it and cannot be cleaned up. In my experience old fashioned cement base grouting is the best mold resistant material. Black mold seems to only settle at the surface and can easily be cleaned with brushing on chlorine. You just have to make sure that there is no movement of the joined parts.

I've seen clear silicone around shower door metal stay clean and clear for 20 years. Around lower tile sections, which is a sponge, not so much. Use the right caulk or sealant for the job. At the base of a tile wall intersecting with a tub or shower pan, the grout turns black too. But, it can be treated more easily than a rubber based compound.

Jeff is right, it always cracks. What we do now is grout the tile except for the bottom joint. We buy the corresponding color sealant and apply that at the intersection. Then seal the tile 3 times.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Zeke

Jeff is right, it always cracks. What we do now is grout the tile except for the bottom joint. We buy the corresponding color sealant and apply that at the intersection. Then seal the tile 3 times.

It still doesn't help.

Prowolf,

Water is going through the grout and runs down the back to the bottom where it meets the tub or shower pan. If you damn that area up(with grout or silicone), the water just sits there and slowly seeps through back into the tub and drains away. That's your cause and problem. if you don't caulk that area, it looks like hell. Like Milt, we only caulk with color silicone based caulking from tile shops. You can even get them with sand in it. Most of what we do have only 1/16" or less grout joint between the stone. Color Polyseamseals are my friends.

Jeff

[Zeke]

That's what I said I do. Sorry if it didn't read that way.