A neighbor of mine who does concrete work for a living suggested I spread a thin layer of cement mix on the ground before I apply the gravel, and once everything is settled, water it down. I did this on a small section of the area where I park my cars, and it's one of the few areas that doesn't have weeds trying to grow through it.

I would use "Dewitt's" weed barrier cloth, fuzzy side down. Overlap it 3-4 inches and pin it down using jute staples.

Grade the area 1st, will make for a clean looking finished product.

Steve

73 911T MFI Coupe, Aubergine

Great replies thanks. The area is already graded and packed by driving the Kubota over the area many times. This is Georgia clay so basically hard as a rock. I doubt the area will see much rainfall because for one it will be under the roof of the RV port and two there's a fairly heavy tree canopy. I don't think drainage or water retention will be a concern. Sounds like neither the weedblock or the plastic will be needed, I can control any weeds with chemicals :D. I need to find out what locals are using for gravel and go from there.

how about using a paver instead of the gravel?

I have never been able to deal with gravel even in light traffic areas.

I've tried plastic and cloth. Plastic rips then weeds-Cloth plus weed killer just makes high maintenance.

Its a couple more bucks but not alot and should hold up really well.

Looks like I'm too late to add anything to this thread. However for future reference I'd like to say something.

I know a guy who parked his MG under similar circumstances and the poor thing rusted away like it was nothing. My explanation to the MG owner which was not forever, was that moisture rising up from the ground came up to pass through his vehicle and found a home.

This moisture migration is what vapor barriers are supposed to stop, sure venting as in crawl spaces helps, but you still need that vapor barrier/retarder under the gravel on the ground.

I just drew up a gutterless porch (Lexan/Thermoclear roof), using a "French Drain" style ground trough with a filtered drain and lots of pea-gravel all around, pitched for drainage with a pool liner or EPDM roofing underlay.

Had this been my carport, I would have sloped the earth for drainage, lay pool liner or EPDM roofing down, covered with pea-gravel and be done.

Concrete is porous and permits water migration, and brick (even brick pavers) absorbs even more water than concrete and can swell which is why we like to protect it with metal flashing and roof overhangs when possible.

I know a guy who parked his MG under similar circumstances and the poor thing rusted away like it was nothing.


To be fair, the rust was installed at the MG factory.

Five years ago a buddy built a 30' X 45' post frame steel building. He put plastic down on the ground before adding limestone (18" at the back to 6" at the front) in various sizes to make a firm base (1/4" down on the top). The problem is that the surface water and rain is absorbed by the limestone as it sits top of the plastic. I told him he should build a base and then put plastic down with material on top of the plastic this would stop any water wicking under the foundation from coming up. His answer "it's good enough". Well this year he had to replace the brake lines on his 63 Pont Convert and his Caddy caught on fire because the electrical connection to the fan motor had corroded. While your not putting a building over it my advise is do it right the first time. :)

He sloped the surface of a porous material (which does little unless it's below freezing and all frozen), and then kept the ground level flat underneath it (where the plastic is), right?

Not something I would suggest.

RE: MG's, yes the MG would have rusted out no matter what he did (eventually), he was in Rhode Island not in a SW desert.