Acoustic Guitar refinishing

89911 · 02-25-2012, 07:52 AM

In case you hadn't seen my previous post, I had a problem with the finish on my Tacoma DR 20 guitar peeling off

It was discussed here:

Finish on my $1500 Acoustic guitar is falling off

After tallking to them and giving it some thought, I just didn't want to give up my present Tacoma guitar. The guitars they were offering in return weren't up to the same quality and it would take close to another $1000 to get the same. Besides, this guitar has some sentimental value and it perfect except for the finish.

I have expererience in wood working, wood finishing, and carpentry, its winter here, so what the hay. 3/4 of the finish came off quickly with a putty scraper and a careful heat gun. If you can see, it is very thick in some areas and not so much in others. Almost like it was dipped. The whole back came off in maybe 30 minutes. The front spruce area is taking a little more time and needs more care to remove.

My intial plan is to completely strip and sand it and take it to a guitar refinisher. The wood under the finish actually wasn't sanded that great. I guess they figured the thick polyurethane coat would cover all the imperfections. Those are all coming out which brings me to my questions:

How do you get the neck off completely? I removed the truss rod bolts and the 2 bolts in the guitar holding the neck on:

89911 · 08:07 AM

There is a bolt under the 5th fret that I need to get to and it must involve lifting the fret Any suggestinf because it looks pretty solidly in place. Also, is the bridge usually removed when finishing? If, I come into situations that seem beyond my knowledge base, I will take it to a shop. I just need the info. Any recommended finishes also? I am leaning towards sealer and laquer, but I have seen others using hand rub oils and even water based polyuerthanes. If I can get enough of the parts off, I will finish it myself. I look at it as saving a nice guitar from the graveyard.

craigster59 · craigster59's Garage

The fingerboard is glued to the top. Go here for good info FRETS.COM Acoustic guitar instrument care, repair for players, luthiers

maybe right here FRETS.COM

craigster59 · craigster59's Garage

There's also a lot of info on refinishing on that site. Good luck!

Shuie · 02-25-2012, 08:06 AM

There may be something under the white triangular cap on the heel. Or, it could just be stuck to what's left of the finish in the jointed area of the heel, fingerboard, etc.. I'm too heavy handed to work on stuff like this so I'd get it to a luthier and ask them to separate the body from the neck for me. It's really going to sound a lot better with a nice finish. Cool project.

craigster59 · craigster59's Garage

Here's a better article on getting it loose.
FRETS.COM Field Trip

targa911S · 02-25-2012, 08:14 AM

man you got balls. big job.

89911 · 02-25-2012, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shuie

There may be something under the white triangular cap on the heel. Or, it could just be stuck to what's left of the finish in the jointed area of the heel, fingerboard, etc.. I'm too heavy handed to work on stuff like this so I'd get it to a luthier and ask them to separate the body from the neck for me. It's really going to sound a lot better with a nice finish. Cool project.

Your right. It's like it was dipped in a plastic case. After discussing this with a few guitar places, the finish plays a huge expense in guitars. Apparently it is much cheaper to apply this coat in a day and ship it out rather then the days or weeks it takes with applied laquers.

89911 · 02-25-2012, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by targa911S

man you got balls. big job.

Boredom, winter in Pittsburgh, more like it. I need a project. I actually will be dissapointed if I can't finish it.

targa911S · 02-25-2012, 08:21 AM

I have a GREAT luthier up my way in New Castle if you want him to get the neck off. He's stupid cheap and a great friend. Come on up ..I'll buy lunch.

Shuie · 02-25-2012, 08:30 AM

These folks sell refinishing supplies, nitro lacquers, varnish, shellac, etc.. They are both great to deal with.

Luthiers Mercantile International, Inc. Guitar Builder Wood and Supplies
The Guitar ReRanch

targa911S · 02-25-2012, 09:44 AM

I used the reranch products when I refinished my Thunderbird. High quality instrument grade nitro that you can't just go find any old place. Good stuff.

89911 · 02-25-2012, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by targa911S

I have a GREAT luthier up my way in New Castle if you want him to get the neck off. He's stupid cheap and a great friend. Come on up ..I'll buy lunch.

Thanks. Too bad its not warmer and I would break out the 911. I will keep that in mind. I have a guy that I've used locally. My ultimate goal would be to finish it and reassemble it, then let him string in and adjust the action. Did you spray your finish yourself or do they sell it in a rattle can?

targa911S · 02-25-2012, 12:15 PM

Rattle cans only. Something about VOC rules that say you can't thin it any more than is in the can so it's rattle cans only. They also have a very good "how to" on their site. It will take a few cans. My T-Bird was a quart of sealer, 3 cans of primer (you won't need that) 4 cans of color and 5 cans of clear. The painting ain't the hard part, it's all the sanding. Sanding a Bird is like sanding an aircraft carrier. You'll have about $200 in materials. It took me over a month to do my bass. Somewhere here is a thread I did on the process.

slodave · slodave's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89911

There is a bolt under the 5th fret that I need to get to and it must involve lifting the fret Any suggestinf because it looks pretty solidly in place. Also, is the bridge usually removed when finishing? If, I come into situations that seem beyond my knowledge base, I will take it to a shop. I just need the info. Any recommended finishes also? I am leaning towards sealer and laquer, but I have seen others using hand rub oils and even water based polyuerthanes. If I can get enough of the parts off, I will finish it myself. I look at it as saving a nice guitar from the graveyard.

Hopefully hide glue was used to glue the FB on. Hide glue is reversible, but to reverse it you need steam and a hot knife (putty type knife). Most of the time, the frets need to be removed and a small hole drilled in the fret groove. Then you have to get the steam into the little holes. There is a device that is sold for this. The steam and heat will cause the glue to free up. The hot knife needs to have a thin blade and is used to slide between the FB, body and neck. Hide glue sets fast, so you can only work a small area at a time.

89911 · 02-25-2012, 04:40 PM

Thanks. I think I am going to take it to the Luthier next week and let him do the final dissassembly. While I like to do things myself, the spruce top is very fragile with no finish on it and I would hate to crack or gouge it. You do agree that it has to come off to complete the finish, right? If not, the finish won't be smooth and even around the bridge.

slodave · slodave's Garage

To do it right, the bridge needs to come off as well. It should be glued with hide glue as well.

targa911S · 02-25-2012, 05:10 PM

They are finished after assembly at the factory I would think. Probably in sections masking off others. Just my .02 can't say for sure. especially acoustic guitars.

slodave · slodave's Garage

Leaving the factory, you may be right. I think that most remove the bridge on a refinish. The area around the bridge would look pretty crappy if you didn't.

89911 · 02-25-2012, 05:54 PM

Finished as much as I can. All in all, I am very pleased with the turn out. When I hit it with the compressed air and then then mineral spirits to clean up the dust, you can see the finish come through beautifully. It is going to be much nicer then the plasticized thing it was before. Slodave, I would let you finish it in a heartbeat if I could get it to you. Let me know.