My 2001 F150 won't start. Need help!
 

I need to tap into the PPOT brain trust here.

My 2001 F150 with 200K miles cranks over great (new battery), but won't start and run. It did this last weekend and then started and ran all week. Today it won't.

Plenty of gas, but no fuel pressure to the fuel rail.

Fuses test good. No CEL codes. Theft system light not on or flashing. Tried two different keys.

From what I've read, it can be the PATS (passive ant-theft system), fuel pump relay, and fuel pump.

How can I test the PATS, fuel pump and fuel pump relay?

Anything else to check?

I doubt it would be the PATS

Check to see if you have power to the pump. If not, test the resistance of the relay (check if it has power going to it first! Could have tripped the inertia switch!), or you can jump 12v power to the pump and listen if it runs.

It's either the relay or the pump

Edit: Doh. Didn't read that you checked pressure at the rail. Seems like checking for voltage at the pump would be the best place to start.

Inertia switch is good.

Cycling the key back and forth got the car started and starts repeatedly. Then nada. Cycle the key and it starts.

Will the fuel pump work in the on position or must the car be running? Or maybe it runs for a few seconds to charge the system?

Of course, it's raining out and it's in the driveway.

I'd say it's the fuel pump or pressure regulator then.

I hate parts swapping, but isn't the relay cheap and easy? Why not just replace it and see if that fixes it? Sounds like a sticking relay to me.

Bought a relay while I'm out and about. I'll drop it in when I get home for grins.

Installed the relay and it starts up, but it was doing it before, so I'm not sure where I'm at with it.

This sounds most likely a fuel pump. I would keep a test light handy, and the next time the thing does not start, make sure that you do indeed have power and ground present at the pump. You will only have power for a few seconds prime after a key on event, or while cranking. Here is a wiring diagram for you.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353282926.jpg

You can also have someone attempt to crank the truck while you bang on the tank with a nice heavy mallet, and see if it fires up. I do this all the time, just to get cars into the shop instead of towing them. I bet almost half of them with dead fuel pumps will start pumping with a few good whacks to the tank. I am guessing that when the brushes get old in the pump motors , that they get dead spots , just like a starter, and a good whack may be enough to make temporary contact. That will also help narrow down your diagnosis if the pump comes on with a few good smacks. I have done gazillions of Ford gas pu truck fuel pumps of that vintage.
Hope that is of some help.

Sorry, that is only part of the diagram I was trying to send you, I cant seem to get the other page to save, my software must have it protected somehow, I can get you one tomorrow if needed , but it basically looks like that Fuel pump itself is powered by a pink with black wire, and the ground will of course be black. From what I remember the connector at the tank is fairly easy to get at to probe for power if you go that route.

Just replaced my '02 Silverado's fuel pump. Your symptoms sound the same as mine were. Kind of a sucky job but when you have done the job before (I have) not quite as bad.

I chose to lift up my bed rather than drop the tank. I think it's less complicated.

Good luck!

Thanks guys. I'll try to take a look at it tomorrow before work.

Just remembered http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif. When installed the new seat cover, I also installed a seat heater. I tapped into a switched wire going to the ignition switch. It was a black/green wire.

When I went to test the seat heater, the car didn't start, so I pulled the seat heater fuse. Still no start, then it finally started. The black/green wire is hot where I tapped it in, so I'm thinking coincidence...

A big shout out to fastfredracing for the help he sent me getting my truck fixed. Pinned it down to the fuel pump, which I replaced yesterday. Truck runs good, so I hope to get another 200K miles!

One question though, I was surprised there were no water/fuel tight connections in the fuel tank at the pump. What keeps it from shorting out?

The gasoline.

Should have done a google search before I asked...

Glad I could be of help. If you were closer, I would have gladly helped you drop the tank as well. I bet it would be nice working on a south carolina truck with no rust. Nothing worse than having to cut off bolts that hold a fuel tank in. Used to do a few of these a week. I remember my first in tank fuel pump, and thinking the same thing.
Glad you got it done. I think dropping the tank is almost always faster than removing the bed.