I hate melamine/particle board! Need to repair something
 

I have a cabinet in my kitchen that the little folks who have infested my house tend to hang on more than I care for.

The top hinge on the cabinet is pulling out of the particle board frame.

Trying to figure a way to repair it...I was contemplating drilling an oversized hole, large enough to remove the area that is pulling out and putting a solid plug in its place with some titebond. The hinge will cover the repair but if not I can put a layer of the veneer I'm sure over it.

I'm concerned even the plug will end up getting pulled out unless I were to put some sort of anchor for that into the particle board. Maybe I'm over thinking this...

Here are some pictures. I could always simply move the hing but that would require drilling out the cabinet face for the hinge.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353698323.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353698395.jpg

You could put two more holes in the hinge further back.....countersink them.

Sand and fill the stripped ones. Put screws in them as well. It's obviously a constantly used door and it seems to be over stressed.

BTDT....I had three door monkies in diapers at the same time....

Consider urethane glue like gorilla glue. Put a little glue in the hole. Put the screws in and clamp it. The glue will foam and penetrate the particle board. It will also foam around the screw. Should give a strong bond.

If the hinge is full overlay drill a 3/8" hole from the front at the same height as the screws. Run the new screws into the dowel.

Or go to Home depot and look at their furniture building bits. They will have the same thing in steel.

Two toothpicks in the holes, break them off an screw the hinge back in. Yeah, I'm a lazy ass...

You are on the track that I would try. Use a hardwood dowel for the plug. Then make sure to drill it for the screw. Should do the trick.

I hate that material. I'm in the process of repairing doors that have their faces made of some sort of manufactured woodish material. Any place the finish is broken or chipped the material starts to absorb moisture and swell.
I'm soaking the area with thinned epoxy to stabilize it then refinish.

All of the cabinet doors are having the same issues, I'll be replacing them.
Just the wrong material for the job, especially here in the islands.

Good luck,
Richard

Mike,

What's on the other side of the cabinet and what size screw came out of the plate on those Blum hinges? Is there another cabinet on the other side it? If so, that makes the two sides added together 1 1/2". Use a 1 1/4 sheet flat head metal screw and screw the hinge back into place. The screw will tie the other cabinet together making it much stronger unit. Another fix is to drill a 1/4" hole and insert a dowel and gllue it in place, trim it flush, insert screw again. 5/8" screw is max but it will hold.

It's open on the other side so I can't do anything around there.

Gorilla glue is a nice idea - I have that and understand how it works and that it will fill the area in but I'm not sure it would provide the strength needed to support the screws.

The screws are about a half inch long - not much too them but seem pretty normal for the application.

Have you given a larger diameter screw a try yet?

The sawdust around the original hole would not hold a screw small enough to get a decent bite.

Or a metal plate with 6 wood screws into the cabinet. Then two sheet metal screws through the hinge.

Offset the hinge by the metal thickness.

Drill those 2 holes large enough to get solid material. Glue/pound (gorilla glue is gud) a tapered solid hardwood plug into the holes, drill pilot holes for the same screws. I have a bunch of plugs if ya need em'. Free is a gud price.

Can't you just move the hinge up a 1/2 inch?

insert nut and machine screw

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353712166.jpg

Cabinet makers nowadays use an oversize threaded insert into the MDF, and a screw that goes into the insert.

John Beat me to it.

Case savers for wood

This may be the lazy man's method, but I've used it more than once with great results.

Not without sinking the other side into the cabinet door.

Not impossible but less than ideal.

the threaded insert works great and I've used them many times with this type of material. should be able to sit on that door after using these. lots of prefab cabinets/bookcases come with these or similar type installed at the factory

BTW, golf tees work better than toothpicks

no

John's threaded inserts would probably be the best solution. You'd have to take precautions to predrill for the insert paying extra attention to remain perpendicular to the surface. Then when installing, don't overstress the area - just get it snug/flush.

Remove the door. The bottom hinge holes will need a little work too as they will have been stressed. Wood glue into existing holes add (tooth picks, golf tees or wood dowel was mentioned) wood to the existing holes. Tap with a hammer to make flush. Clamp over the holes. Use wax paper between the clamp and holes so the glue doesn't attach. Small piece of wood to cover both of the holes then clamp. Wait to dry. Reposition door and drill small pilot holes reattach with screws.

If they break it again, the hole will usually get bigger. You can drill and use bolts to hold it on.

Mike,

You need some proper screws for melamine or proper plastic inserts for that application. I have a bunch of them. I will be in the shop middle of next week. PM me your address and I will send you some. How many of the others doors are like that? You want to insert another 5/8" screw in the the back screw hole on that Blum wing plate. It makes it A LOT stronger. Most guy I see do not get back in there to install the third screw because after they align the door, they don't want to take the door off for that last screw. Buy a 1 1/4' sheet metal screws and replace one screw on every hinge plate through out the kitchen and you are golden. You might not be able to replace both because it will hit the other screw coming from the other side if they did the install correctly. The installer used the wrong screws and it will never hold for long.