Due to it's historical significance...

Or more importantly, how ferkin cool it is, I like the look of that military/police looking gun. Plus those shoties with the shell holders are stylish.

And they could be a good investment. Makes you feel good buying something that you enjoy knowing you can get your money back plus some when you come to sell it.

Finished up the wood a bit back. Never got the steel bits nitrided like I wanted, but did give them a cold blue solution. Close enough done now that I've quit doing as much to it anymore.




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700 Nitro Express dueling pistols in John Wick 4

SmileWavy

American Sniper Rifle Evolution (and a Dragunov).

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My latest rig:

• Kelbly Atlas Action
  1.250 x 20" Bartlein barrel
  Timney trigger
  MDT Oryx chassis

Chambered in 6mm Dasher. Should be good for <1/4" MOA.

Definitely an upgrade from my Ruger Precision rifle. The Ruger can still hit for 1/2" MOA at 300 yards, but I've got about 2500 rounds through it and it's starting to open up beyond 300. 2500 is about the useful life for 6.5 Creedmoor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756470868.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756470868.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756470868.jpg

Regarding your 6.5 Creedmoor, can't you just set the barrel back a bit and rechamber it? When accuracy begins to fall off like that it's usually the throat that has been eroded. The rest of the barrel should be fine. Do you have a bore scope?

Put a deposit on this full auto build a few weeks ago. I think there are 12 in line ahead of me, but this is gonna be fun.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756479016.jpg

post-sample?

Yessir. It's about 1/20 the price of a transferrable, but just as much fun.

I do have a bore scope. You are correct, there is significant fire cracking in the throat. The lands keep moving and I'm seeing a lot more jump than when new. If I try for 0.020" jump, the projectiles are barely hanging on and the COAL is too long to fit in the mag. I have to hand feed them. Still, the rifle is amazing for the money.

I did not think about a set back and rechamber. I'll ask my gunsmith. I bought a new carbon fiber Proof barrel for it, but haven't installed it yet. Waiting on an action wrench.

Thanks Jeff!

My pleasure. I've done this successfully on a few rifles over the years. It buys you time, but eventually the rest of the barrel will be worn enough to replace it.

The one rifle that I have done this on the most is my Ruger #1 in .220 Swift. Boy you want to talk about a barrel burner, the old Swift is infamous for this, and for good reason. Lots of powder being burnt in a very small bore.

Results, however, are worth it for the performance it offers. Very old school, developed before laser range finders and scopes that can be dialed for specific ranges so easily. Your 6.5 Creedmoor is a superior long range cartridge in today's world, due to the technologies we have developed. Heavy for caliber bullets at moderate velocity, don't worry about trajectory, just dial the scope to whatever range the range finder tells us. Very effective.

The old Swift, however, relies on velocity and the attendant flat trajectory. Lighter for caliber bullets, not great ballistic coefficients, just get them going as fast as possible. The faster the flatter. Trying to shoot so fast that we don't need to know the range or worry about trajectory, out to three or four hundred yards. I keep mine zeroed at 300 yards, and can pretty much hold right on a rock chuck or coyote out to 400 or so without having to check the distance or hold over or anything like that.

My favorite load launches the 60 grain Hornady V-Max at just about 3,800 fps. That's kind of a heavy bullet for this chambering, but it is actually carrying more velocity at 400 yards than the 50 grain bullets favored by most Swift shooters (I can start those at almost 4,100 fps, but the 60 grain still catches up and passes it, velocity wise, at about 300 yards).

Anyway, enough of that. This is a pictures thread. I've shown it before, but here is my #1, sporting its third or fourth barrel. I burned out the factory barrel in less than a year (way back in about 1982), then went to Lilja from there. This one is 28" long with a 12" twist. The higher than normal velocities are due to that long tube. The two cartridges are the .220 Swift and a .223 for comparison.

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756513589.jpg

What do you call a T-Rex that sells guns?


A small arms dealer....

Hmmm, what do we have here?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761686861.jpg

Why would someone feel a need to have a forward assist on a SKS with a fixed easy access bolt?
You have a very interesting, modified beast there! Cool!

not mine - just found this pic and wondered what kind of frankensetup this was

Being a black powder shooter with well greased cast lead bullets my hi power experience comes from watching several winning long range (1000 yards) shooters and what and how they shoot. At our range in Sand Diego we had one fellow who was one of the first engineers to help design General Atomics' drones so he was very technical. His rifles used carbon fiber stocks, Badger barrels, Nightforce scopes and custom machined bolt actions. I looked at one of his data sheets and his 6.5 Creedmoor bullets were zooming along at about 4500 feet per second and he would use 3 barrels or so a year and he would just throw burned ones away and put in a new one. He told me he ordered half a dozen barrels every winter and was close friends with the barrel company owner.

He was more serious than I ever wanted to be and an example was his bullet path at 300 yards shooting was nearly flat while my 540 grain cast lead bullets arched about 16 feet before dropping back to the 300 yard target. So why did I type all this....well
if you to be very serious then it will take time and lots of $$$$$. Shortening the barrel slightly might work but how is the rifling doing at high velocity shooting and the muzzle crown and so on? Finally is there a competent gunsmith who can do your requested machining so the barrel will not be ruined.
John Rogers the oldracer

Photoshop, the forward assist appears to be attached to both the receiver and the dust cover. Ain't gonna work like that (no way to disassemble rifle to clean)