Had the tranny replaced under warranty at about 150,000,

it must be out of warranty by now? How many tranny was this last one? I heard average life on those is about 75000 miles. 250k is a lot of miles. Tell you the truth, I am actually looking for a replacement SUV or daily beater where I can carry a few things and not worry about door dings and such. I kept going back and forth about buying new vs high mileage one. A few weeks ago. a young women was on her phone and nailed me head on at about 45mph destroying my old Land Cruiser in her BMW. Most of her front end went under my truck. Because of that, I was not hurt. That thing was build like a tank with horrible MPG but I loved it.

That was the second and last tranny. About 100,000 miles on it. I am curious to find what kind of hits I get on Craigslist. If that doesn't pan out donating is the easiest thing.

Not true. A private party can sell a car with an agreement in writing that the car won't pass smog because it has a bad engine. As long as both parties agree to that, there is no liability for the seller.

Thanks. Good to know. I doubt if it will pass smog though it still runs. I'll make sure to add that statement to the bill of sale.

Is it running but knocking? What are the symptoms of damage? Did they perform a compression or leakdown test?

I can't imagine any engine surviving running out of oil. Everything should be toast.

drop in a SBC. isn't that the answer to everything?

I've seen motors run out of oil and SEIZE....then be freed up and run just fine (although with a shorter lifespan).

Those V6 Honda/Acura motors pressurize their heads first, then the crank from the front first, rear last. So the middle of the crank (#3/4) starves oil at the rod bearings. Usually the mains will rattle/hammer but not spin or sustain real damage. The rod bearings usually take the brunt, often spinning or melting/seizing.

If it is running now, it's either knocking (damaged/spun rod bearing, overheated/warped rod end) or rattling (bearing clearances).

I seriously doubt anything in the heads got damaged at all, and the cylinder walls and pistons are probably fine too. The rings may or may not have sustained any real damage.

In most cases a new oil pump, rod/main bearings, and new rings and it will be fine.

OTOH, if a good used engine w/ lower miles is really ~$700, that seems like a no-brainer.

Runs but is knocking/ticking. I need to dig up the final diagnostic test performed by Acura. I'm certainly not in a position to rebuild though the thought has crossed my mind. My experience in dropping/rebuilding engines is all VW related. I think this is a little more complicated. :cool:

Keep in mind that the dealer is going to prescribe a new factory long block if there is any internal damage, no matter how repairable. They do not get involved with "patch together" fixes on 250k engines when they have to warrantee their work. I would not either.

That does not mean that it's not fixable. You might be able to repair it and get a lot of additional miles out of it.

+1

I vote $2k on Craigslist. You don't want it, you don't want to fix it, seems like a no-brainer.

Hey Steve is there a magic request you make at the DMV? They have always blocked me from transferring title with no smog certificate. I would absolutely love to find a work around.

For the OP, the liability you can face with an un-transferred title is all the tickets, tows, etc. the vehicle may receive will accumulate in your name until the title is transferred. And it may be 2 or three sellers down the road before someone tries to transfer it, especially at this price point.

Yes, if you file the paperwork when you sell you are ultimately in the clear, but it can be a huge time wasting, frustrating hassle clearing your name with all the agencies that may be involved. For some reason, they don't like to believe it is not your car anymore, they just want your money and they have your name.

eastbay,

You can certainly transfer title / ownership. You won't get a registration without smog. Are you sure you aren't mixing this up?

G

Declare non operational. Must run but I will tell you what happened to me when I sole a car and that very same car was sold many time after to various people. it ended up with stolen engine, and various stolen vehicles on the property. Crazy scary stuff if you don't get paper work correctly done. AAA will do that for you without crazy wait at the DMV.

Ok, let's assume I will get all the paperwork filed correctly, which I will. Didn't know AAA will do that for you so that will save me some time and effort. I guess my question is, how do I get the maximum money for this car without putting in a bunch of cash and time? The registration is good until March of next year so there's no real rush other than it's parked outside my house. Having cash in my hand now would be nice but I'd be willing to wait if I would receive more cash later.

The thing about this is that you are dealing with the low ballers who want to make a buck and will grind you to death. Not to mention they will waste your time, the no shows, and many will promise to pay full price but only want to pay half once there. Is dealing with that crap worth it instead of spending time with your family? You have to ask yourself that. I think the max difference is 500- 800 bucks if you are lucky. Dealing with the bottom of the barrel is no fun. Then, there are those who do not want to reg. it under their names but will only take pink without filling out anything for their flipping benefit. Every time I buy a car, I make them go to AAA with me and get title transfer. If not, no deal, I don't need it that badly. I haven't bought a use car in a long time. Most of time, I know the seller. I don't sell, I gift my old beaters to my workmen. Selling is a PITA.

about 10 years ago, my Acura Integra GSR (need a small car for fuel milage instead of my dirty trucks) was bought new. Drove it for a week and was followed home. these bastards wanted the motor so they try to take the car but couldn't get the motor running due to some Acura key chip thing. This was 4pm. Neighbors came running 0ut screaming then the cops showed 15 minutes later. Cops told me to get rid of the car. they will come back for it. Is not if, but when. I lost a bunch of money, car was sold to an older guy who bought for his kid. AAA, bank, the whole deal. Four years later, I got a call form the The next day, I spoke with the station captain, he told me that I need to show up to verify that when I sold the car, and it did not have a stolen engine in it and that it was original. The bastard said that they bought the car like that from me, the original owner. I filled out some forms at the station and waited for a court date. I get another call a few weeks later and was told to not show up to court and the issue was solved and that I was not involve with stolen goods in anyway. But the cops never told me what actually happenedd, they refused. I was a little pissed about that. You never know who you sell a car to? They can buy from you in the morning and rob a store with it come noon, then you are screw if you don't transfer title immediately. Not worth all that crap. We have too much to lose.