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Anatomy of a tile bathroom remodel

A little late on the pics, but here is the tub/shower enclosure in sheetrock with "peel and stick" waterproofing over the nailing fin of the tub.






The tub is protected from the coming mortar bed.


KT

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Old 04-20-2007, 08:04 AM
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Water proof paper and window flashed.






KT
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:10 AM
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Metal lath, ( stucco netting ) in place. Ready for mortar.






I will show all the steps involved in creating a floor to ceiling marble bathroom.

It's going to be 12x12 tumbled marble on the walls and 16x16 tumbled marble on the floor, set diagonally with tile base board.

1/8 inch grout joints.


KT
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:36 AM
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Excellent! Thanks for posting the "step by step"!
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:52 AM
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Subscribed! LOVE this stuff!
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:56 AM
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It'll be fun. I've wanted to do this for quite some time.

And of course, I will field any and all related questions along the way.


KT
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:58 AM
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Why the see-through glass to the outside? Are you trying to show off.
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Old 04-20-2007, 09:03 AM
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Subscribed. KT - I'm very interested in learning how to mud. Materials used, application, gotchas. Wife and I were going to replace our tiled master bath vanity sinks with marble slab but the cost has forced me to consider marble tile. Thanks!
Old 04-20-2007, 09:22 AM
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Cool.

Is this something you think could be done by a handy DIY'er?
Old 04-20-2007, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by the
Cool.

Is this something you think could be done by a handy DIY'er?
Definatly- I am not all that handy but have done it myself twice now


Before:



After:




Sorta late before pic:




After:






I tiled with all Travertine in the 1st and normal 1" tiles on the shower wall on the other with travertine floors. The hardest part of the two projects was getting the drain to line up with then new tub because the new tub was wider (and much taller) than the original tub. That is on the 1st set of pics which was actually the 2nd one I completed.

I learned after doing the 1st one (2nd set of pics) not to use 1" tiles because they are a pain to grout and keep clean and also not to use a steel tub because it is too hard to move around. The venetian plastering was also a pain in the ass but I did love the hickory wood in that bathroom.

EDIT: If you notice I love the curved shower rod they use in the Venetian Hotel Chain! They are cheaper at Bed Bath & Beyond.
Old 04-20-2007, 10:11 AM
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My shower is the same size, but doesn't have a tub, just has the plastic pan on the floor.

I've heard that is difficult to replace, needs to be "hot mopped" etc.

True?
Old 04-20-2007, 10:17 AM
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Just to be clear, this project is not tile set over sheetrock or any manufactured cement panel.

I just got back from delivering 1000#'s of mortar for the walls

The mortar is applied over the stucco netting to a thickness of between 3/8" and 3/4" depending on the condition of the wall studs.

With a mortar bed installation you can correct any surface irregularities. Out of plumb or square surfaces become flat and level.

Also because of the density of the mortar and the waterproofing behind it, this is the best method to produce a "Lifetime" installation.

Done right it will outlast every other surface of a home.


KT
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Old 04-20-2007, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by the
My shower is the same size, but doesn't have a tub, just has the plastic pan on the floor.

I've heard that is difficult to replace, needs to be "hot mopped" etc.

True?

Not so much that it is difficult. It is absolutley critical that the shower pan liner hold water. It must have pre-slope of 1/4" per foot under the waterproof membrane, the drain weep holes must remain unobstructed and it must be water tested.

When the mortar and tile are set on the shower floor you *must* understand that the water is going to eventually go to the liner.
If the weep holes are blocked, the mortar bed will "load up" and get stagnent and smelly. Also the grout joints will be hard to keep clean.

Liner can be made of chlorinated vinyl ( 40 mils ), trowell/brush applied material or the "hot mop" ( same as a tar roof ).

I prefer the vinyl for a number of reasons:
I can do it myself in a few hours with out dealing with another contractor.
It doesn't stink up the whole house.
It can move with the house settling without tearing or cracking.

The materials to do a shower pan liner of normal size is about $100 dollars.


One of the higher liability projects in the trade and DO NOT recommend it for a DIY'er without oversight.

Most of my shower renovations are the result of failed shower pan liners.

KT
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Last edited by trekkor; 04-20-2007 at 12:54 PM..
Old 04-20-2007, 12:50 PM
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Nice to see there are still some true craftsmen left in today's disposable world.
Old 04-20-2007, 06:48 PM
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Thank you. I really enjoy my work.

Here's the kitchen I finished today.



Slight hi-jack...

who cares?


KT
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Old 04-20-2007, 07:27 PM
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KT,

I said this before, after checking out your website..."simply beautiful!" You are a true craftsman, and your love of your skill is quite evident.

Thanks for sharing this!

Randy
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Old 04-20-2007, 07:37 PM
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i do love green tile...

One great thing about some of the older houses in LA are the tile bathrooms. Some from the 20's and 30's have this great pink or green and black tile that is amazing. Our old house in Pasadena also had a Batchelder tile fireplace. Was the best part of the house...
Old 04-20-2007, 07:39 PM
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Randy, I keep looking for updates on your slate project. What happened?

Yes, those tile projects from the 20's-60's are still in pretty good shape for the most part. All in mortar.

I have a good time most every day.

I work alone...

Sometimes my wife does come to work with me.


KT
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Old 04-20-2007, 07:44 PM
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trekkor,
When doing a kitchen is it better to tile the whole room first then install cabinets or install cabinets then tile? I keep hearing different opinion's.
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Old 04-20-2007, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by trekkor
Thank you. I really enjoy my work.

Here's the kitchen I finished today.
What is that counter top made of?

Old 04-20-2007, 07:54 PM
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