I'm going out of town for the rest of March, but afterwards, I can help. Grind, drill, beat on with hammer...I know how to work on British cars. :D

Thanks everyone!
Angela, the only registration I've got from around then is to a William B Curley III in Oceanside, CA in 1969. That name seems like it should mean something to me but can't place it.

Haven't done much, ordered a new fuel line and fuel pump, hope to get those on and then get her moved and start the real fun. I figure it'll take me about 20 or 30 years at this pace :)

I know the feeling, hang in there. I wish I had room for one.

Well, a little progress. Replaced the fuel line and pump, started her up and moved it into the garage (now that it isn't leaking fuel.)

Looking sad in the freak snow storm:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1364688958.jpg

A lot of work to be done, but solid underneath:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1364689031.jpg

Younger daughter inspecting it:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1364689128.jpg

Pcar related fun:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1364689169.jpg

A bit more progress
 

Tune-up, plugs, rotor, points, etc. Radiator drained and pulled off, generator pulled off to paint. Ready to replace the belt (it was cracked in about 10 places.) Repainting the engine bay black (was already black when I got it and not worrying about originality is pretty freeing.) And spin-on oil filter adapter.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369702548.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369702580.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369702602.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369702624.jpg

have a radiator shop shorten the filler neck on the radiator. they are prone to snapping. very common issue. the extra length of the filler neck is unnecessary. or, if you really plan on driving the car, install a modern radiator, or a TR4A radiator. much larger cooling area.

also, if you get parts online, use Little British Car Co. up in Michigan. they use the Moss part numbers and catalog...but tend to undercut Moss's prices. Plus they will send you walker's shortbread in your box when you buy parts.

I hope you have a good supply of clotted cream, jam, and black tea to go with that new shortbread supplier.

The ratio for a cream tea is 2-2-1. 2 parts scone, 2 parts clotted cream, 1 part jam. One cup and saucer of black tea with cream and sugar as you like.

The maths work.

Looking good!

Very nice. I had 3 TR4s but never a 3, which I wish I had. Good luck.

Sort of on topic. What is a TR6 like? There is one for sale close by. Looks good from a distance. Red with black top. What are the probs to look for? Had an Austin America with auto trans for a few years so I have some experience with brit cars.

I have two TR6's...they are great cars. Still very British. They sound awesome!

Here are my two:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369767119.jpg

They sound great!

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/CHvAz0mcjqE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

and Jame May approves!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4FageCtKA0g" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tr6's are great cars, but watch for rust and Lucas smoke.

Thanks. I think I'll stop by and take a look. What's a decent one worth?

Like any car, rust is the killer. Look for rust in the rear of the frame, floor pans, and trunk.

If the car is solid, prices range for $3-$4K for a solid restorable car, $7 to $10K for a nice driver and mid to upper teens (or higher) for a really nice one. Options (which both of mine have) are overdrive and hardtop. Both are worth $1K (each) to the value of a car.

A bit more progress. Fresh VR-1, rebuilt carbs, valve adjust. The carbs had about a 1/4" of dirt and gunk in them, pretty ugly. Was so nice to be able to pull the ONE valve cover and see everything clearly for the valves while standing up. The new fuel pump doesn't have a hand pump for priming so I had to let it turn over about a million times but now she's running pretty sweetly. I'm sure it needs some tuning still but pretty nice to hit the starter button and have her start right up. Steering and tranny fluids etc next.

Awesome, Brian. I think every true car nut should have the experience of adjusting side draft Strombergs or SUs at one point in their lives . . . .

For some reason I always loved turning the key and then pushing the start button on the old sports cars to start them. My Austin Healeys had start buttons, but I have a vague memory that my TR3 had a pull knob to start it. It was a '59.

Good to see you are not alone on this project Brian. Your two helpers look pretty keen to get involved.

My TR's had cable operated chokes in the center of the dash - could this be what you remember?

+1

My 54 MG-TF had a pull knob to start.