RV refrigerator experts please chime in
 

I am restoring a 1968 Avion C11 truck camper and have to replace the fridge that some previous hack had installed. It was an absorbtion type and I am considering replacing with a 12 volt compressor type. From what I can gather from web searching most of these 12 volt fridges have either a Donfoss or Fuji compressor. I have found an online vendor that has a 3.1 cu. ft. Norcold 12 volt compressor fridge for $609.00 plus freight. In the RV arena this is a good price. It comes with a 2 year warranty. I called Norcold today and they stated they sell fridges with Donfoss and Fuji compressors and stated that the warranty claims on the Fujis was less and they tend to run quieter. The one I'm considering has the Fuji compressor. I'm pretty much stuck with the 3.1 size because I also want to add a built in microwave above the fridge and space is tight. So what are you guys and gals using ? Are you happy with the performance ? I plan on having both solar and a generator to charge the batteries if I'm off grid. Any advice appreciated.

I have an Isotherm in my boat, Danfoss compressor.

One hint, do NOT use anything sharp to get the ice off of the evaporator....ask me know I know. Just turn the unit off top defrost :-)

I'll have to check out Norcold as a potential replacement.

My last RV fridge was a 3 way AC/Prop/12v. It worked great on AC and propane but was just barely able to maintain temp with 12v. Add a 6 pack of beer at room temp and the whole fridge warmed up to 50+ degrees. If you get one and plan to run mostly 12v, just make sure it is up to the task.

For the most part these days, they are actually 2-ways. Propane+12Vdc, and 120VAC. The 12Vdc never really worked unless it was the 'cooler' heat-sink type. Left on long enough, they would freeze.

Sounds like you have found the right one.

I have a Norcold and have not had any problems with it.

Why not the propane fired version? They are pretty tried and true...

12v only works when the engine is RUNNING and a GOOD connection works. 12v will last short time. A good autoswap between 12v and propane is essential for dry camping. Lighting a pilot light or manual switch over sucks.

Propane and shore power works the best when level and balanced. Buy a cheapo bubble level.

I just went through this with my motorhome,, decided money was better spent on a good mini fridge (that I got on sale at home depot for $175) it only draws 1.5 amps and a small Honda type generator that will run for 9hours on a gal of gas... added an inverter to run off DC while I'm heading down the road and all set.. MUCH less money

True dat

^^^^

Is the Norcold you have one with a 12 volt compressor ?

I have not made up my mind yet on which type to purchase. I do not need it right away I have about a year plus of restoration ahead of me. But the Norcold I found online with the 12 volt compressor is a very attractive price. And I know the boating industry uses these 12 volt compressor fridges with good results. I am also toying with the idea of adding solar to charge the battery so when boondocking I won't have to run the generator. Right now just doing data gathering. Thanks for the feedback.

No, mine runs on 120/propane. Sorry meant to clarify that.

Brad other than the sharp object incident how did you like the performance of the fridge ? How well did it cool ? How was the battery life ? How many batteries were you using and were they 6 or 12 volt ? Was it quiet running ?

I used a Norcold 12 volt, electric only. worked great. was able to self install, as the gas was built in. they have clever connectors that seal then pierce the seal in the pipe.
Ran very quite and off a solar panel . Had to leave on lower setting or would freeze everything. worked flawlessly for years.

Don't want to stab them:-)

It worked really well, and quiet. The amp draw was low and I could go pretty much a whole weekend on two deep-cycle house batteries. I had the cooling set at level 7-8 and the fridge would cycle once every 45 minutes or so for a bit.

This one may be a bit small, but its the same size I have on the boat. Mine is AC/DC and stainless steel, though;

Isotherm Cruise CR 65 Classic Refrigerator / Freezer

Tevake do you have any data on the model you had ? Size or aprox. age of the unit ? How large of a solar panel did you have ? How many batteries and were they 6 or 12 volt ?

I thought I would give an update. I was 50/50 on the compressor vs. absorption and then the other day on Craigslist a local RV retailer posted a Dometic absorption fridge that came out of a 2008 RV that had some type of damage. So he was parting out various items. Today I went and looked at the fridge he had it running on 110 when I arrived. Unit was cooling well. He then hooked up a LP bottle and switched it over to propane, the igniter did its thing and she lit. Price was 300.00 so I bought it. It is the exact size of the one that came out. While there he also had a Coleman Mach 3 roof AC on display that was recently removed from another RV. He had that hooked up also and it was so quiet compared to the unit I currently have. This thing looked brand new and was 100 % complete and he threw in a new mounting gasket. Snagged the AC for 350.00 so today was a good day. Two more items checked off the restoration list. :D

we had the absorption type dometic on a boat
works ok but not super cold fast

and when the weekend nuts gets bad or a bad weather ruff spell happens
the movement causes the liquid in the top to fall out of place [that the gas boils thru]
and cooling falls off a lot
then you need to disconnect everything
and the unit needs to flipped upside down for a few min
then quickly set up- right
that will restore normal cooling
by returning the liquid to the upper pipes

neat old tech that makes cool out of hot
I always wondered if a hot exhaust/cat could be a power source