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Hey Rouxroux, how do you do....it?
I am NOT a cook, but I made a stab at gumbo earlier. So how do you make "your" roux? Mine turned out great, but took me for freakin' ever (in hindsight, I was probably using too low of heat) 'cause I didn't want to burn it. I grabbed mine off an old Justin Wilson video...1 1/2 cup olive oil and 3/4 cup of flour. The gumbo came out damn good, not the best, but I'm sure I'll get it mo' better next time. So come on y'all gimme your roux (and gumbo) tips, but keep it simple...:)
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I use Paul Prudhomme's "Louisiana Kitchen" book. It has good instructions and more importantly images showing the different levels of color. A gumbo needs a very dark roux, it looks like used motoroil. It is a fine line between getting it right and burning it. I like to go slow to avoid pushing it too far.
I lived in Louisiana for several years, so I have seen it done and more importantly know how it's supposed to taste like! :) Of all Cajun/Creole dishes I still make, Gumbo is the one I make most often. If I have any tough small game critters that need a good boil to be tender, Gumbo is the go-to dish. You can put anything in a Gumbo. That's the spirit! G |
The best way to make a roux is in the oven. You really have to try hard to burn it.
I use a one to one mix, 1 cup flour to one cup of veg. oil. For a good tasting roux use beacon drippings. For the best tasting roux use duck fat. My wife and I enter cooking events all the time and win some as well. We both grew up in New Orleans and both of our parents taught us to cook. |
Thanks G! I "know" how it's supposed to taste...only 'cause I've been a frequent visitor Jazz Fest and several Mardi Gras (as a youngin') over the years. I didn't "quite" get to the level I was looking for, but not bad for a rookie if I must say so myself. My roux turned out great...just as you describe, but I probably spent over an hour getting it to that point. I had my heat on low (2 ish), and never stopped stirring the whole time. I'd just like to expedite that time a bit. I did the chicken (2 breasts and a pack of drumsticks) in a pot for stock, and browned some Andouille, put onion and celery in (didn't have bell pepper on hand), and then some fresh (and some frozen) okra in. Didn't have any file powder on hand...is that critical? Let it all sit in the fridge overnight, and then brought it back to life before serving, but I'm still missing "something", but don't quite know what. I used some of my own "Cajun spice" blend that I had made up some time back, and also added some "Tony Chachere's Creole" seasoning, along with plenty of Crystal hot sauce. I KNOW you know your stuff (from other threads). I've been to 'Nawlins a bunch over the years, so I know what it's supposed to taste like...I'm just not quite there yet...help a Pelican brother out! I reckon it's like chile...I've never made a "bad" batch, sometimes it's just better and I've never done it the same way twice :).
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Thanks SJ! I've always heard the 1/1 ratio flour to (butter or oil), and I'm sure the bacon adds flavor, but I was trying to do it a bit healthier. Tell me more about the oven technique!
ps: I've stayed in Slidell quite a few times in earlier years...back when I went to Mardi Gras. |
The oven method:
Pre heat the oven to 350. In a cast iron pan, mix your oil and flour 1 to 1. Place in oven, after 10 Min's or so give is stir. Continue to do this until the desired color is reached. Should take about 20 Min's. |
Thank you! That sounds a LOT easier...
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You can use higher heat if you stir constantly, low heat only if you're doing other things at the same time. It should be a little darker than peanut butter when done.
You did roast the drummies before you made the stock? Roasted bones are somewhat critical. I always have a frozen roast carcass or two in the freezer for this purpose. I use tomatoes, I can of diced, drained. Finally, the okra goes in just before its done, as a thickener, really. ten minutes or so most. Epicurious.com is a pretty good resource for ideas, no need to strictly follow a recipe, but you can get some inspiration. |
my mother always said when your roux turns to the color of a paper bag, it's done
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Hey, thanks guys...keep those tips coming...I'm takin' notes here :)!!!
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I'd suggest you use a recipe. Personally, I like Emeril's gumbo better than Paul Prudhomme's. Stick to a 1:1 ratio on the roux, use good ingredients and make no substitutes. The quality of things like the sausage make a big difference, as does browning the meats first. There's Andouille that you buy in a grocery store, then there's Andouille, which is a different thing altogether. I usually cut my sausage into smaller pieces than the recipe suggests and I shred the chicken after it's cooked at put it back in. Make your own stock, don't use the crap in a box, or the (much worse) crap in a can. If you use shrimp, use fresh gulf shrimp, not farmed Asian crap, and put it in at the very end. It only takes a couple minutes to cook.
JR |
here is a shortcut i like to use.
put a pan of flour in a medium hot oven and toast it to a light nut brown. now make your roux. you have just cut about twenty minutes off your stirring time. |
Well now, just saw this and many have the 1:1 ratio down well. I NEVER use oil unless I'm shooting for a light "white" roux. I'm very old school, and it all about taste, not so much color. I use butter and bacon drippings, and the rule is SLOW, SLOW, SLOW. On my usual dark, I stir until the taste is just "nutty". If you scorch it/rush it, you'll just end up with a mess that will leave your dishes bitter. After I finish the roux is when I add spices and maybe a little stock.
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the color of the roux has to be matched to what you are cooking
be aware that cast iron does not cool down quickly so you either have to add meat, etc. to cool it or stop a little early on the color I don't understand why people have trouble with making a roux, but I guess I am biased... file powder is critical to file gumbo - you can just make an okra gumbo file needs to be made from leaves that were gathered at the right stage of the moon... (I guess was was into biodynamic before the wine grape people, huh?) |
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ps: Don't know what to do about real Andouille though...I'm limited to the crap they sell in the chain stores around here. I didn't use shrimp this time around, but can get fresh shrimp straight from the docks in NC....they don't suck. |
You can get anything via mail order, if you can't find it in a specialty store where you live. I can get it in Tulsa, which is not the food capital of the world. Fer instance, when I have a need to cook and eat a wild boar ragu, the wild boar shoulder comes from New York. Ironic, given that they run around wild in Oklahoma, but I digress... All you need is a credit card.
JR |
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Thanks JR...I'll probably order a batch and just put some in the freezer for future use.
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Re: roux & gumbo. Now if you (and/or your loved ones) don't really like most seafood or Andouille (I know, I know - utter heathens) is there any point? I have never made gumbo but I am always looking for variety. Ian |
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