Walther PPK/S Failure to recock
 

I know we have a bunch of spoon lovers, and a couple of spoon-smiths here, so I thought I would ask here before I take to it a professional.

My PPK/S is an older Interarms import, and I'm unsure of the date of manufacture. It was my carry pistol at one point, but was retired when I started having issues with it. While firing, no matter what ammunition I use it occasionally doesn't re-cock the hammer. It ejects and loads the next round just fine, but about one per magazine or so (7 rounds) it will give me a double action shot. I can't have that in a carry pistol, so it was relegated to the back shelf of the gun safe for fixing "some day."

Does any body have any bright ideas of where to start?

edit: It is a stainless .380 model

If there really was a James Bond and he carried a Walther, there would have only been one movie. I have had 3 Walthers, a PP, a PPK/S and yet another PP made in Zella in 1935 that I still own. Of ALL of them the 1935 is the most dependable, but I would not stake my life on any of the 3. Any Walther for that matter. Try shooting silver tip ammunition. I have found that Walthers are "ammunition specific" and they seem to like silver tip. I'm sure there are Walther lovers here that can point you to a competent Walther smith that can tune it for you.

I've had a West Germany PPK, (wish I still had), and currently a S&W made PPK. I've never had trouble with either not cycling or not functioning properly.
This is a really good Walther forum you might get some better insight...

WaltherForums

I bought it used years ago, it was my first pistol and I carried it for a long time. Put a bunch of rounds through it too. It was always very reliable until it started having this issue. That's been a couple of years.

I took it down to brass tacks, with the exception of unpinning the barrel this morning. Cleaned everything up and gave it a good scrub with a couple of strategically placed drops of CLP for good measure. I am taking Mrs. Ledhed to do a little pistol training on Monday, so I will bring it along and put some rounds through it and see what happens. If that didn't clear up the problem, I'll probably get in touch with this fellow Home Page as he seems well regarded. I'll hop on over to the Walther Forum and nose around too. My carry pistol now is a Sig P250 subcompact, that one shouldn't have trouble for a long time.

Good advice. I'd clean it properly before sending it off to any gunsmith.

Good luck Led & let us know how you make out.

Sorry I assumed it was a clean gun...:rolleyes:

To be frank, it was clean to the degree that I could while field stripped. I had never gone so far as to detail strip it. Thanks to the wonders of YouTube and a couple spare hours, I did that and I'll see how it runs. Not sure why the snide comment, you are usually so helpful...

I agree with a complete disassembly, check for burrs caused by wear/dirt/etc and then use a good lube that will not get tacky and goopy. We have this stuff inSan Diego called "Frog Lube" which is pretty well water proof, dirt proof and does not goop up. With my SIG 226 when I was shooting center fire guns, I would do that yearly.

Wow you sure took that the wrong way. I meant no offense. I really did assume that it was a clean gun. I assumed that you had already cleaned the gun and it was still giving you fits that is all. Sorry if it came off wrong.

lhs, perhaps the shoe is on the other foot.
Jim

Ok, glad that misinterpreted that. It seemed out of character for you. As I stated, you are usually very helpful. My apologies for not assuming the best of intentions.


I have received good direction from the Walther forum, so I will try their recommendations and post the result here. Among other things, there is concern that the decocking mechanism may be not functioning correctly. I'll follow up after a range trip tomorrow.

Thanks for the heads up about "Frog Lube." I have been using Hoppes #9 and Break Free CLP. Is there anything else I should consider using?

I have field stripped and cleaned it after every use. I have not much experience with completely tearing down a firearm, and was nervous about doing it. I didn't want to have to find a smith willing to deal with a box of parts. Frankly, I have only done this with long guns before and my experience with the PPK/S was only possible through the magic of youtube.

Thanks again for the responses.

I've never had trouble with either not cycling or not functioning properly.http://netkios.com/12g.jpg

Not to pick nits, but...

It is, in fact, recocking the hammer every time you fire it - it can't help but do that if the slide goes all the way back, it ejects the spent case, and chambers a new round. What is actually happening here is that the hammer is following the slide, resuming its at-rest position after it has been cocked.

With that distinction in mind, it's obvious there is something amiss with whatever holds it back after it is cocked. Something is gummed up (in which case you probably fixed it), or something it worn. If your cleaning didn't fix it, look for part of that specific mechanism to be worn.

Oh, and I agree whole heartedly with targa911S's assessment of Walthers in general. I've had a few, but only one remains - a WWII take-home P38 from my father in law. I pity the fool who carried that thing into battle. It doesn't even make a very good club.

Ok Ok Ok I get it... I never had any trouble with it before this, but I shall retire it as a carry pistol!

I do concur that it is cocking the hammer with every shot. Whatever the problem must be related to the mechanism that holds the hammer in the cocked position.

Just a thought, could it be that you are not letting pressure off the trigger quickly enough? That could allow the hammer to follow the slide down without firing the next round.

I don't "think" that's the issue, but I shall take special note of that when I shoot it tomorrow. Thanks for your thoughts!

If the slide is moving back and then returning to what would be the cocked position, but the hammer is not staying back in the cocked position, I would say that the problem is the where the trigger and hammer sear engage. Does it work if you cock the hammer back manually? Does it work if you pull the trigger from a rested position?

I had the same issue with an Interarms PPK that I bought new ~10yrs ago. It went back to the factory and was fixed. Take it to a dealer and see if they can still send it back. It was not an uncommon problem. Call Walther USA, or S&W, or whoever owns them now and ask about it. Maybe they can just send the shop the correct parts. Actually, you might be better off calling Earl's Walther Repair and asking them about it first. Nobody knows Walther stuff better than Earls.

"Earl's Walther Repair" ?? LOL. Now here is a guy making a living from fixing Walthers shouldn't that tell you something? (*disclaimer*I'm just trying to be humorous here ......)