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-   -   Restore Anodizing on Momo Steering Wheel? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/792143-restore-anodizing-momo-steering-wheel.html)

RWebb 01-16-2014 06:01 PM

Restore Anodizing on Momo Steering Wheel?
 
I bought a used Momo Steering Wheel recently and the guy did not pack it very well. The center rubbed on another item during shipment and the black surface is worn, showing as silver.

I think it must be anodized black, rather than painted. The seller offered to take the wheel back, but instead I am going to just keep it at a slightly reduced price.

But I'd like to have a nice cosmetic appearance on it. Any way I can restore it or touch up the worn, scratched areas?

My guess is that painting it will not work well...

Laneco 01-16-2014 07:12 PM

A black permanent mark does a great job.

Steve the other half of Angela

70SATMan 01-16-2014 07:30 PM

Should be able to find black alodine in small quantities that you could use to touch up the scratches.

RWebb 01-20-2014 10:40 AM

Here is what I am dealing with. It actually looks a bit blue-gray to the eye. Black marker doesn't seem like it would match (I use it on the lug nuts, but don't eye them up close).

How hard is it to use alodine?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390246716.jpg

70SATMan 01-20-2014 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RWebb (Post 7866147)
Here is what I am dealing with. It actually looks a bit blue-gray to the eye. Black marker doesn't seem like it would match (I use it on the lug nuts, but don't eye them up close).

How hard is it to use alodine?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390246716.jpg

Randy,

Typically, touch up alodine is done with a Q-tip applicator. Might want to prep with some isoprophyl first to clean up any dirt. I'd try any marks you have on the back of the wheel first.

Usually the alodine is done when you have scratches down to the bare alum. Don't know how effective it'll be when the finish has thinnned (UV or rubbing)

gordner 01-20-2014 11:50 AM

Normally when anodizing aluminum, you use alumiprep first, an acid etcher. Even though you are trying for a small local spot, I would suggest first etching it as it will not take much colour without it. I have annodized unetched aluminium before and you can leave it in the bath 5 times as long as etched aluminium and still pick up only about half the colour tone.

And keep in mind alodine is very toxic and is trans-dermal so will absorb through your skin quickly.

Heel n Toe 01-20-2014 12:04 PM

Why not take the simple route and just rattlecan it with primer, then flat black? You may be overthinking it... sure, paint is not as cool or impervious as anodizing or powercoating, but when you consider the fact that your hands almost never touch the spokes of a steering wheel, paint becomes a very viable option.

onewhippedpuppy 01-20-2014 12:05 PM

Webb, are you using a Momo horn button? Many of them have an outer "beauty ring" that covers the holes (and scratches).

Edit: here's just an example. Maybe you could just find something similar on Ebay from someone not using a horn?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._antracite.jpg

GO DAWG GO 01-20-2014 12:20 PM

Home anodizing.....
 
Do not alodine that bare aluminum. Alodine is a substrate adhesion treatment for aluminum before you prime with a zinc primer. Its colorless- Look up alodine 1200. Touch up alodine ( Aircraft materials processing)

The only way to repair this is to re-anodize the bare surfaces. This can be accomplished at home by making a sulphuric acid bath 20% battery grade sulphuric acid and 80% distilled water ( add acid to the water- not water to the acid. You don't want to know why... ( use something inert like polypropylene for the containment or glass) You can get a battery charger and create a anode and cathode with the leads. Immerse the center of the wheel in the acid dillution and attach the positive lead to the aluminum steering wheel and make electrical contact. Connect the negative lead to a lead tire weight and put it in the bath. Make sure to degrease the exposed bare aluminum ( This is why you cant alodine over irridite or alodine...It will act as a maskant) set up the bath and turn on the battery charger of low ~2 amps @ 12V. increase current and watch you aluminum bubble ~ Hour or so.......Rinse thoroughly with water...Now you can get out the sharpie and touch up the aluminum for a permanent anodizing...Or buy some anodizing dye...all colors are available besides black.

Hope that helps

RWebb 01-20-2014 01:28 PM

My horn button is a porsche crest type - it will not cover all the scratches.

I may wind up with paint...

KaptKaos 01-20-2014 01:58 PM

http://www.possibleshop.com/images-g...30-16125-1.jpg

Try a small spot on the back first.

RWebb 01-21-2014 05:17 PM

that's just gun blueing, right?

I may have some laying around the house if it is.

KaptKaos 01-21-2014 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RWebb (Post 7868512)
that's just gun blueing, right?

I may have some laying around the house if it is.

Yep

SD Swede 05-09-2014 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RWebb (Post 7868512)
that's just gun blueing, right?

I may have some laying around the house if it is.

What did you end up trying? Trying to improve the metal on a Jackie Stewart wheel.

Peter

BlueSkyJaunte 05-09-2014 12:10 PM

You may note that the original poster is banned.

Try again in a year, maybe?

Jrboulder 05-10-2014 01:12 AM

I'd use Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black to touch that up


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