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Restore Anodizing on Momo Steering Wheel?
I bought a used Momo Steering Wheel recently and the guy did not pack it very well. The center rubbed on another item during shipment and the black surface is worn, showing as silver.
I think it must be anodized black, rather than painted. The seller offered to take the wheel back, but instead I am going to just keep it at a slightly reduced price. But I'd like to have a nice cosmetic appearance on it. Any way I can restore it or touch up the worn, scratched areas? My guess is that painting it will not work well... |
A black permanent mark does a great job.
Steve the other half of Angela |
Should be able to find black alodine in small quantities that you could use to touch up the scratches.
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Here is what I am dealing with. It actually looks a bit blue-gray to the eye. Black marker doesn't seem like it would match (I use it on the lug nuts, but don't eye them up close).
How hard is it to use alodine? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390246716.jpg |
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Typically, touch up alodine is done with a Q-tip applicator. Might want to prep with some isoprophyl first to clean up any dirt. I'd try any marks you have on the back of the wheel first. Usually the alodine is done when you have scratches down to the bare alum. Don't know how effective it'll be when the finish has thinnned (UV or rubbing) |
Normally when anodizing aluminum, you use alumiprep first, an acid etcher. Even though you are trying for a small local spot, I would suggest first etching it as it will not take much colour without it. I have annodized unetched aluminium before and you can leave it in the bath 5 times as long as etched aluminium and still pick up only about half the colour tone.
And keep in mind alodine is very toxic and is trans-dermal so will absorb through your skin quickly. |
Why not take the simple route and just rattlecan it with primer, then flat black? You may be overthinking it... sure, paint is not as cool or impervious as anodizing or powercoating, but when you consider the fact that your hands almost never touch the spokes of a steering wheel, paint becomes a very viable option.
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Webb, are you using a Momo horn button? Many of them have an outer "beauty ring" that covers the holes (and scratches).
Edit: here's just an example. Maybe you could just find something similar on Ebay from someone not using a horn? http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._antracite.jpg |
Home anodizing.....
Do not alodine that bare aluminum. Alodine is a substrate adhesion treatment for aluminum before you prime with a zinc primer. Its colorless- Look up alodine 1200. Touch up alodine ( Aircraft materials processing)
The only way to repair this is to re-anodize the bare surfaces. This can be accomplished at home by making a sulphuric acid bath 20% battery grade sulphuric acid and 80% distilled water ( add acid to the water- not water to the acid. You don't want to know why... ( use something inert like polypropylene for the containment or glass) You can get a battery charger and create a anode and cathode with the leads. Immerse the center of the wheel in the acid dillution and attach the positive lead to the aluminum steering wheel and make electrical contact. Connect the negative lead to a lead tire weight and put it in the bath. Make sure to degrease the exposed bare aluminum ( This is why you cant alodine over irridite or alodine...It will act as a maskant) set up the bath and turn on the battery charger of low ~2 amps @ 12V. increase current and watch you aluminum bubble ~ Hour or so.......Rinse thoroughly with water...Now you can get out the sharpie and touch up the aluminum for a permanent anodizing...Or buy some anodizing dye...all colors are available besides black. Hope that helps |
My horn button is a porsche crest type - it will not cover all the scratches.
I may wind up with paint... |
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that's just gun blueing, right?
I may have some laying around the house if it is. |
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Peter |
You may note that the original poster is banned.
Try again in a year, maybe? |
I'd use Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black to touch that up
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