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-   -   Anyone know utility trailers? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/820390-anyone-know-utility-trailers.html)

Christien 07-12-2014 01:55 PM

Anyone know utility trailers?
 
I borrowed a friend's trailer today to haul some soil, and probably overloaded it. It looks like the hub bearing disintegrated. When we got home, we saw the wheel was just hanging on the axle. The threads on the bottom of the axle are all ground off, though there's still 80% of them left, so I'm hoping it's not shot as well.

Are these parts generic? Can I DIY this repair at home?

Here are pics:
axle end:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1405198502.jpg

back of the wheel - hub looks fine:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1405198515.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1405198544.jpg

porsche4life 07-12-2014 02:05 PM

Ask your friend when the last time that bearing was packed was. Looks dry dry dry. Hard to tell looking from my phone but it looks pretty effed.

Christien 07-12-2014 02:08 PM

The trailer's only 2 years old - 2012 model. I'm sure it's never been repacked since he bought it.

Joe Bob 07-12-2014 02:11 PM

Always get a trailer rated 2x the load. Lite weights maybe cheap but kill u on maintenance.

GWN7 07-12-2014 02:17 PM

Looks like the bearing was never packed from the beginning. It appears to have Bearing Buddy's on the axels. Should have lots of grease. Check the other side. If the one that disintegrate has scored the axel you might have to replace the axel.

Christien 07-12-2014 02:17 PM

Ok, duly noted, I'll be sure to pass that on, but I need to know if these are generic parts that I can replace, or if they need to come from the manufacturer. I found this complete hub with bearings - it *looks* like it should work: 1,750 lb 5-Bolt Trailer Axle Idler Hub | Princess Auto

stomachmonkey 07-12-2014 02:31 PM

That thing looks like it's had a hard 2 years.

GWN7 07-12-2014 02:34 PM

That's a hub. The one on your trailer is ok. All the hub does is hold the bearings in place and hold the wheel on. You need a bearing set. I just did my car hauler's bearings. The kits are about $30 But before you do that check the axel to see if it's scored. Clean all the old bearings off the axel. If the axel is scored it will wear out bearings prematurely. If it's badly scored it should be replaced. Axel's start at $180 and depending on their length and weight rating go up to $700.

rusnak 07-12-2014 02:34 PM

Yeah, that bearing looks like it was never packed. Axle is toast.

I think the whole trailer needs to be gone through before going back on the road. Brakes, bearings, the whole thing.

johnco 07-12-2014 02:41 PM

you can change just the axle stub if it's damaged. a little cutting/grinding and some welding. no need to replace the axle

E38Driver 07-12-2014 02:41 PM

Here is a good source for parts.

Trailer Axle Kits - Trailer Axles & Dexter Axles at Wholesale Prices

Have not used them but have them in my folder for future use if needed.

Dave

Christien 07-12-2014 02:44 PM

Here's a pic of the axle. Pooched?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1405201431.jpg

Scott Douglas 07-12-2014 02:53 PM

I'd say so.
That axle has seen enough heat to make it dangerous.
Tell the owner you'll go halves with him to replace the whole thing and he should be thankful it didn't break and cause an accident.

GWN7 07-12-2014 02:58 PM

To determine if it's "pooched" you need to remove the remains of the old bearing and wipe the axel down to remove the road grime and I'd say old grease, but there doesn't appear to be any. Then check the axel (which should be nice and shiny) for any scoring. If it's scored (depending on how bad) you might have to replace the axel.

As johnco mentioned yes you can replace just the end but you need to take the axel out, cut the end off with your metal cutting band saw, then place the axel in a jig to hold the new end and axel completely level with each other and then weld them together. Your welding skills and welder up to that job? Failure to get the axel and new end level will result in a trailer that will wobble dangerously when being towed at highway speeds and tire failure.

Evans, Marv 07-12-2014 03:34 PM

Replace the axle. Make sure the new bearings are packed w/ grease. If there is a tandem axle, check & repack those bearings w/ grease.

johnco 07-12-2014 03:36 PM

stubs I changed had long square ends that were a very tight fit into the square box tubing axle. you'd have to try real hard not to get it straight, level and square. your axle may be different

Porchdog 07-12-2014 03:48 PM

You need a stub axle, hub and bearings. The stub welds on.Check the other side - don't be surprised if that side at least needs bearings.

Your local NAPA or Tractor Supply should have everything your need. Any welder can do the welding.

VincentVega 07-12-2014 03:51 PM

Trailer Axles | etrailer.com

Replace, not expensive and bolt on.

KFC911 07-12-2014 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VincentVega (Post 8160935)
Trailer Axles | etrailer.com

Replace, not expensive and bolt on.

I'd probably go that route...particularly since it's a borrowed trailer. BTW, that is exactly why I don't like to "borrow" anything ...the OP did no wrong and the POS (ungreased) "disaster waiting to happen" trailer was just bad timing and luck, but that's the way it goes. I'd see if the owner was willing to split the costs (heck, if I was the owner, I'd consider myself lucky and pay it ALL)...stuff happens.

porsche4life 07-12-2014 04:42 PM

Yup... Trailers get abused. We have a no borrow or loan policy. Seems like every time in the past someon has wanted to borrow the car trailer the bring it back covered in oil from hauling a beater, or they have destroyed one or both fenders... :(

LakeCleElum 07-12-2014 05:18 PM

Six Robblees' Inc. | Since 1913

john70t 07-12-2014 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christien (Post 8160802)
The trailer's only 2 years old - 2012 model.

Way too much rust for only a couple years.

Do your friend a favor and recommend undercoating/waxoyl/rust convert/structural reinforcement/other extreme measures.
That thing is going to be tossed in five if something isn't done.

LJ851 07-12-2014 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christien (Post 8160789)



Look at the bottom of the stub axle, it is not even remotely the same shape in profile as the top of the axle. That is completely ruined.

If you were hauling at night it would have been an impressive light show !

john70t 07-12-2014 06:54 PM

Good eye, LJ851, but is that where the races seat?
The bearing separated then the wayward rollers dug a chunk from the outboard stub.
Welded and smoothed, nobody would know the difference.

Edit: Nevermind. The threads are pooched as well.

E38Driver 07-12-2014 08:23 PM

Those hubs look like they have sat underwater for a while. I would replace the entire axle and hub assembly

Dave

wdfifteen 07-13-2014 02:00 AM

Hubs and axles are readily available, but all hubs may not fit all axles. If it was my trailer, given the amount of damage, I would get a new axle with hubs mounted. That would eliminate any parts incompatibility, give me the chance to upgrade the weight rating, and it's way easier than welding a new stub on the axle beam. Remember to check the bearing lube and preload before you use the trailer. They slap them together haphazardly at the factory.

johnsjmc 07-13-2014 07:03 AM

Axles are cheap at Princess auto. Intruder trailers in Hamilton also has parts .Measure the axle flange to flange and determine the load rating (from the certification label if a factory built trailer. That axle is ruined and easiest fix is a new one. PA has a 2000 lb axle on sale now which might include hubs etc for $99

yetibone 07-13-2014 08:51 AM

That stub looks better than what's on a lot of the landscaping trailers I work on. :eek:

Most trailer hubs and bearings are standard sizes for the weight rating of the axle. Some boat trailers' hubs, bearings and seals are funky sizes, especially when you get into surge brakes, and mobile home axle parts won't interchange with anything, but non-home built utility trailers have standard bearings, hubs, seals, castle nuts, lock washers, etc...

That one looks like it could be fixed if in a pinch. The stuff on the bearing surfaces is just grease that has collected burnt up metal from the rollers and turned to a rusty looking paste. The flat part of the threaded portion is to locate the lock washer for the castle nut.

Considering what the other hub may look like, locating parts to fix what you know is wrong, wondering if the stub got weak from the heat, finding a die to chase the threads on that damaged stub, and as cheap as an end-to-end axle assembly would cost, it's easier and more cost effective to buy a new axle.

yetibone 07-13-2014 09:01 AM

BTW, that's probably a 2000 lb. GWR axle.

Christien 07-14-2014 02:31 PM

I ended up replacing the whole axle. A new one complete with hub assemblies was $190. It took the better part of 8 hours, most of which was removing the old nuts from the U-bolts and the leaf spring attachments. They were harder to remove than 30-year-old exhaust nuts - literally.

It was definitely a 3500lb axle, and that's what I replaced it with.

vash 07-14-2014 02:38 PM

my uncle once said, "the best trailer is a friend's trailer"

i borrow cantdrv55's..it is awesome!! and so is he, letting a nut like me borrow it. i did repack the bearings last time i had it. just in case.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1405373861.jpg

vash 07-14-2014 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christien (Post 8163767)
I ended up replacing the whole axle. A new one complete with hub assemblies was $190. It took the better part of 8 hours, most of which was removing the old nuts from the U-bolts and the leaf spring attachments. They were harder to remove than 30-year-old exhaust nuts - literally.

It was definitely a 3500lb axle, and that's what I replaced it with.

did you go with those "bearing buddies"? my brother has them on his boat trailer. kinda cool. (wish i invented that damn thing)

KFC911 07-14-2014 02:47 PM

How many of you guys use "S" hooks on your safety chains? I had some pretty beefy "S" hooks straighten out like they weren't even there when I was hauling a heavy load of dirt 'bout 5 years ago and had a tongue failure (metal fatigue). Just damn lucky to be here as the jerking trailer cause me to veer into the opposite lane as I was regaining control and before the trailer went off to the side of the road. I've since replaced all of my trailers' safety chain "S" hooks with "O" type connections that screw together. DO IT...I learned the hard way but with no major damage....YMMV.

stomachmonkey 07-14-2014 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christien (Post 8163767)
I ended up replacing the whole axle. A new one complete with hub assemblies was $190. It took the better part of 8 hours, most of which was removing the old nuts from the U-bolts and the leaf spring attachments. They were harder to remove than 30-year-old exhaust nuts - literally.

It was definitely a 3500lb axle, and that's what I replaced it with.

Good on ya.

Last time I borrowed something it was a buddies pressure washer.

Had an issue with mine and did not feel like dealing with it right then and there.

Just as I was finishing up the hose on my buddies split.

Was not my fault, nothing I did, it was "just time"

I went out and got him a new hose, better than what I was replacing.

Brought it back to him with both hoses and explained what happened.

He asked why I bothered to replace it, it clearly wasn't my fault.

Said cause my dad taught me you return things in the same or better shape than it was when you borrowed it.

Christien 07-14-2014 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stomachmonkey (Post 8163816)

Said cause my dad taught me you return things in the same or better shape than it was when you borrowed it.

Exactly. In the end, he's paying for the part and I did the labour to install. I did protest, then said how about 50/50, but he chalked it up to an already-failing part, and was happy to have the peace of mind that the other side is fine. When I bought the new one, the guy did say it needs greasing once a year. Also discovered the leaf spring bushings are shot, so I'll probably replace those for him too.

Seahawk 07-14-2014 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christien (Post 8163767)
I ended up replacing the whole axle. A new one complete with hub assemblies was $190. It took the better part of 8 hours, most of which was removing the old nuts from the U-bolts and the leaf spring attachments. They were harder to remove than 30-year-old exhaust nuts - literally.

It was definitely a 3500lb axle, and that's what I replaced it with.

Well done.

The circle of people I lend things to is tight...you'd be in it.

wdfifteen 07-14-2014 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vash (Post 8163789)
my uncle once said, "the best trailer is a friend's trailer"

Hey, your uncle may be my neighbor!

aigel 07-14-2014 09:34 PM

Nicely done.

I can't believe that trailer is 2 years old. The RUST! 50 years old here in CA would look about he same, if that.

I borrow trailers from Uhaul. They are $30/day for a 6x12. ;)

G

KFC911 07-15-2014 03:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vash (Post 8163789)
my uncle once said, "the best trailer is a friend's trailer"

i borrow cantdrv55's..it is awesome!! and so is he, letting a nut like me borrow it....

Quote:

Originally Posted by aigel (Post 8164425)
....I borrow trailers from Uhaul. They are $30/day for a 6x12. ;)

G

Soooo....you don't have any friends (suckers) like Cliff does :D?

ps: I keed....I'm like Seahawk...my circle of "loaning/borrowing" is tiny, but for those, I don't worry one bit....they're like the OP and others posting on this thread :)


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