Stopping and looking can sometimes show how much penetration there is.

Would/could a "test" weld be used at the beginning of a project to ensure proper setup? IE: taking an exact sample of the material in question, welding it up with the given settings and then destroying the weld to document the results? If within whatever spec, proceed? Captain Obvious is standing over my shoulder! Of course the variables would be the welder (person welding) and their technique.

When I start to weld I'll angle grinder my practice welds apart to look at how much it's melted into both bits of metal. Also look for "puddles" of silicon? Plus I'll do the one bit in the vice and big pliers on the other bit tear test. I only need to weld new bits in around the headlights and a few other dots, so nothing terribly structural.

I've done a fair bit of old school stick welding (Arc welding) but otherwise I'm a complete amateur.
TIG for me would be the ultimate because you can weld just about anything and those "row of penny's" can look brilliant!
But MIG is also brilliant because you can do it one handed which means with the right gloves you can hold the other piece in position with your free hand.

As far as penetration and strength. Heat is the thing. You have to get both pieces of metal hot but like always too much of a good thing can work against you.
I always try to plan my welds so the distortion is kept to a minimum. That is I weld on the other side before the first side has a chance to cool completely IYKWIM.

One thing though. Get a good auto darkening helmet... I find the less you have to do the better.

I started with a Victor J-28, and later bought a Mecco "Midget". For filler rod I generally use .035 mig wire cut off the spool. When learning I was fortunate to have a good friend and neighbor who was (in addition to being the car guys car guy) a very talented metalworker.

I'm an amateur hobbyist, not welding nuclear containment vessels. Those certified experts weighing in above make some good points. Common sense and care go a long way. But, as the saying goes, "a man's got to know his limitations"

DG

Very well stated. I think some of the comments are extremely exaggerating the point that you need to know the materials and make damn sure that you have adequate heat penetration. I might also add that you have to manage the puddle of joining molten metal that comes from both pieces. But how many times has this already been said here in this thread?

For increased penetration:

- less stick out
- CO2 gas
- more current
- more push, not drag angle
- bisect the joint angle
- weave

Ahem........

As I said Shaun.

The take away is you argued something you simply didn't have the knowledge to argue and only conceded the point when someone other than me laid it out in black and white for the second or third time in the thread.

A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. Welding is,IMO, not something to spout off about unless you KNOW what you are talking about. I am surely no expert but I did spend time being taught by someone who most definitely is (career welder and pipe fitter) and I retained enough to know that there is more to welding than melting a rod on your workpiece. The whole point I was addressing in my posts was choice of equipment which you continually jumped on with your 'look what I did with my 110 it's great' posts and in the process demonstrated that you are ignorant on the subject and appear to have never been introduced to the concept of penetration. Which is fine in your own world....but not so fine when you are not only potentially leading someone else astray but actively trying to put down the remarks of others.

In short you may or may not be a fantastic welder in your choice of workpieces but you most definitely are not educated on the subject.

And my sincere apologies to everyone else in the thread for crapping it up.

Well my thanks to Shaun, Berettafan and everyone for your comments. I went from knowing nothing to having the confidence to buy a cheap one, watch a few youtubes, and having some fun. I don't think I'll ever be welding something that needs to be welded well so the equivalent of a "hot glue gun" will work well for me :)

Good luck Bill, the key is to practice, practice, practice. Intentionally make mistakes (too much heat, too little heat, wire speed...) so you can see what happens and why. Patience is a must.

It is tremendous fun, and very rewarding. One thing I wish I had l learned a long time ago.

Thanks. I appreciate the advice.

We weld quite a bit, just the nature of beast as farm equipment ages, especially mower decks and associated equipment.

The key for me (as I said my son is much better at it than I am) is that I have enough scrap to practice on before I weld for score. That really helps an amateur like me.

The reality is 90% of the things 'we' weld at home are cosmetic or require minimal penetration to hang together. A glop of weld will usually work.

If you weld a control arm, and engine mount, torsion mount etc, be careful.

Back on topic now...

AN UPDATE:

I am getting ready to order the Hobart 110 Auto Arc 130 with regulator and I'll probably get a 40-60 size bottle.

So next question, and really the most important to me: EYE PROTECTION & SAFETY!

I'd like the highest level of eye safety so I'm not regretting this purchase down the road with eye issues. Really anything within reason is in the budget so what do you suggest? Here are a couple thoughts I had - theres a Jackson I liked but the lens is Slovenian...don't know anything about their build quality and quality control/testing. I would ideally want USA made or European but honestly would rather get whatever comes with a safety recommendation from you pros. Don't care if its auto darken or not but adjustable darkness makes sense to me.

Got the welder ordered! Hobart Auto Arc 130 kit with regulator and cart.

Now I am ordering my tank/gas, wire, and a hood.

The hood I am thinking 3M Speedglas 9100V....any thoughts? It seems primo but I don't know.

How much gas do I need? Is a 60cf tank good or is that crazy and I only need 20-40?

I would think a 60 would be good for at least 5-10 lbs of wire. All welding helmets should have met similar welding safety standards BUT I have found the cheaper lens are harder to see thru while welding. I used a Harbour freight auto darkening for a long time and recently bought a Miller branded helmet. The Miller makes the observation of the puddle a lot easier. Spot welding I still often find myself just looking away but running a bead requires a helmet.

So am I crazy to buy a $240-250 helmet? I understand that they should have all met spec...just thinking that past the specs there may be a difference between clarity and of course quality of safety?

A good auto-darkening helmet is worth it.
There nothing worse than trying to start a difficult section while blind.

Yes because the cheap ones often do not darken evenly.....

Ok and from what I am reading, the 3M Speedglas is the top of the line and its made in Sweden (hey its not USA but at least its not China). Thanks for all the help!