Firearms Cleaning Kits - Anyone Using This?
 

.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000C52A5/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=WX4K 0P82HHJ5&coliid=I6AZQUQ6A0H32
.
.
$40.75 & FREE Shipping.
.
.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1410364141.jpg
.
.
Contains the brushes needed to clean .22, .270, .30, .38, .45 cal. rifles/pistols and 12/10 ga. shotguns.
.
Reviews:
174 - 5 Stars.
45 - 4 Stars
20 - 3 Stars
.
If not, whatcha usin'?
I've got two old kits w/lots of everything but no bore snakes - looking to upgrade.
.
BTW, your opinions on segmented cleaning rods.
Some gunsmiths say don't use them, even aluminum ones - damage to bore.
Mine are aluminum, what's the harm?
.

I'm still using segmented rods. I don't see how it could hurt the bore.

I use Hoppes #9 and oil. Don't see any reason to change.

I use bore snakes on the shotgun--the nylon type and the brass brush. I also use a segmented rod for the oil patch after the barrels are clean. Never had an issue and the boresnakes are a great time saver.

"Jim" says to not use aluminum segmented rods - @ 1:30
.
"A lot of guns I get in mah shop...you ruin the muzzle of the rahfle..."
.
.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/uhTwVOh0_ik" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Segmented rods won't hurt anything. Aluminum rods or coated rods will. They act just like a lap - their softer (than the bore) surface will get grit embedded into it. Stick to bare steel rods. I use a one piece at home and pack a segmented one when afield.

As far as solvents, I'm with HardDrive - good ol' #9 and oil. I've used darn near everything out there, and just keep going back to this. Oh, I will use Sweet's 7.62 on stuff like my .220 Swift that can get some copper fouling, but that's about the only place I deviate from good old Hoppe's.

For cleaning bores, I like to :

1) Let it soak in bore foam for 20 or so minutes
2) Put a patch through on a jag to remove the loose debris
3) Run a Remington squeegee through
4) Run a bore brush through
5) Run a patch through on a jag soaked in solvent
6) Repeat steps 3-5 until bore is clean
7) Run a dry patch through on a jag
8) Run an oiled patch through on a jag

Aside from letting the barrel soak, it only take me less than 10 minutes to clean a bore this way.

Sweets 7.62 Solvent is in my Wish List of Amazon items I'll be ordering.
Otherwise, I use Hoppe's, as well.
.
Getting back into shooting and reviewing my accessories, etc.
Also, have decided to clean-up my ugly ass Chinese SKS - stock refinishing, etc.
Stock looked like they finished it with a broom.
.
Also, just bought another mint Chinese SKS this weekend - loaded w/cosmoline, chrome bore, and zero wear marks internally....along with 2,100 rnds. of brass ammo.
I'm happy.
.
Thought I'd share. :)
.
.
ps I'll look for steel cleaning rods.
Amazon has bore snakes from Thighland.

I have exactly that set, I'm happy with it.

I don't get it. You guys must love cleaning more than you love shooting.

I post 0.4 MOA groups with my stainless-barreled AR-10 (yes, one of those "inaccurate" semi-auto rifles) on a regular basis--and I am definitely the weakest link in the fire control system.

My barrel cleaning regimen? Squirt some CLP on a BoreSnake(TM) and run it through a couple of times. I do this ever 2-3 range sessions.

Yes and it works great. Easy to carry to the range. This is what the US Military uses.

Thanks guys.
It looked good to me instead of buying a bucket of bore snakes from the Land of Thigh.
As you were. :)

They say more guns are ruined from cleaning than shooting.

I run a Hoppe's boresnake through mine with two maybe three passes, and wipe down the outside with an oily rag.

Some fullas on the S&W forum get so obsessed about cleaning they put a bronze brush in an electric drill and go at the cylinders until they are bright and shinny :rolleyes: I suspect they may fit into the category mentioned on line one.

I'd say.

I carry one of these when I'm traveling. Works well. Reminds me, I need to get another cleaning brush, since I'm cleaning things at the office these days (cooler than the garage).

That settles it.
I'm ordering one...along with a bunch 'o other stuff.
By God, I'll tell you one thing! :cool:

otis
 

You'll like it
it works, it's handy, compact

Hmm... I must have missed the part where anyone said "how often" they clean. But now that you bring it up...

Bill nails it - more guns ruined by cleaning than by shooting.

I clean my hunting rifles after the end of the season, if I remember. They stay dirty from the last pre-season sighting in shot, unless something happens (like it gets its muzzle pushed into the mud or snow). Sometimes they only get cleaned before the next season, when I haul them out to work up a new load, verify zero, or whatever. Then I remember I forgot to clean them last year...

Other guns are different. Revolvers get a cursory wipe-down after most range sessions, just because they are too nasty to re-holster. If it will be awhile before they get shot again, they get a few patches wet with #9 down the bore and in the chambers, then dried out, oiled, and put away. As a matter of fact, now that I think about it, most of my other guns are treated this way as well. I just don't put a lot of effort into cleaning...

There are exceptions, however. My custom Ruger #1 in .220 Swift (28" long, 1:12" twist Lilja barrel) starts to copper foul after about 50 rounds. It gets cleaned religiously about every 20-30, just because I don't ever want to deal with its fouling issues again. That, and barrels for this caliber are never long for this world anyway, so I'm not too worried about any cleaning damage...

Sorry, I said "you guys" but it was really Legion's multi-patch process that was making my head swim. :D

Something an instructor of mine said has stuck with me for years: "My rifle is a dirty b1tch--just how I like my women."

I clean after every shoot.

I moly. Really cuts down on the bore cleaning.

Hoppe's 9: Lead solvent

Sweet's 7.62: Copper solvent

Don't overuse Sweet's, or let it soak too long. It is ammonia based and will etch your barrel/chamber.

Get a bore guide. It's all about the crown.

Chamber to muzzle clean the bore, if possible. Again, it's all about the crown.

I do have an Otis kit. The mil-spec, multi-caliber kit. I think it was $60-70.

Carter