I am not sure about that? we usually install 20 amp FGIs in the kitchen (if its on a 20 amp circuit) and be done with it. No law suits.

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15 amp device has parallel prongs, 20 amp device has 'T' prongs. Can't plug a 20 Amp device into a 15 Amp rated receptacle. I may be wrong, but NY State appears to have adopted NEC (National Electrical Code)

You're preaching to the choir. We all know that the inpector has the final say. I can tell you that around here, no inspector is going to allow a 15amp receptacle on a 20 amp feeder. I wouldn't either.
Try plugging a 50/100' extension cord into a 15amp receptacle that has a 20amp feeder, and use it to power an RV A/C unit for the weekend. Then tell us what happens. That kind of stuff happens all the time. My family's safety is worth more than that.

Good point.
A 15amp outlet shouldn't be used on a 20amp circuit(weakest link in the chain)

One thing I like is a cross-over between adjacent rooms.
If one leg goes out there is still a single light/outlet, or it's within extension cord reach.
It does makes labeling a bit more complicated though.
Write the breaker# under the outlet.

I put in lots of kitchens over the years, I have only had two inspectors check the panel for that. Most know our work or are just too lazy to check it.

I like to run out 30A circuits with 10/5 soo from a portable three phase distro box to power stage back line and monitor power. for the back line break out boxes I have a pass through box with three, 20A duplex one on each phase and backed up by a 20A breaker on the box-

So far, this is what I have learned:

-Separate circuits for lights vs. outlets
-Conduit and GFCIs on outlets on walls against concrete
-No more 13 outlets per circuit

Remaining questions:
-It is my understanding that code requires an outlet every 6 feet, is this correct?
-What gauge wire should I use for outlets?
-What amperage breaker should I use for outlets?
-At what height should I mount outlets at?

You can use Romex if you staple to a stud of the the framed walls in basement, not foundation wall.

14 gauge, 15 amp. Outlets within 6 feet from an opening (doorway, etc) then less than 12' apart.

They can be at std heights, and don't need to be GFI, unless there is a chance of getting wet/flood zone.

3 Phase Residential? Not likely OP has 3 phase service.

I most certainly do not have 3 phase service.

I looked into it at my old house to run GTAW (TIG) welder, but the cost exceeded what I was willing to put down for a hobby.

Some older residential has 3-phase, usually to run HVAC equip. It will have a high leg that will read 220v to ground, two other legs which read 110v to ground. Not too common today.

Local code will supersede NEC in many communities. This will often cover the 15a-20a recep mismatch. Some local codes disallow 14ga. branch circuit wiring. Breaker is sized to the wire, not the recep.

Carter

The circuit breaker protects the wire not the outlet, that's why a typical household 20amp breaker wired w/ 12 or even 10 wire, will usually have 15amp outlets. The only time you need a 20amp outlet is for specific high current devices.

New Question:

What if I have a situation with a "T"?

I have an outlet in one room (A), about a foot from the wall (B), an outlet in the adjacent room about a foot from the wall (C), and another outlet on the wall in the middle of the "T" about five feet in.

Should I:
-Run wiring from A, to C, to B?
OR
-Run wiring from A to a junction, then to B and C?

Bah!

I've found that with electricity it's best to use a little creative imagination. Try some stuff and see what works!

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While the basement is still open run wires for phone, cable TV and computer. :)

Typically A>C>B is easiest, and wire is cheap. Simple, less connections=more reliable.

In the second case, the junction must be in a box, and has to be accessible. Also keep in mind that there is a code as to how many wires & devices can be in a box, based on the size of box(cubic inch) and wire gauge.