When to replace parts on a high miles vehicle?
 

My 2001 Ford F150 with a 5.4 has 221k miles on the clock. Other than routine maintenance (belts, hoses, plugs, cops, fuel pump, shocks, ball joints, etc), I've replaced an alternator at about 130k miles and had the trans rebuilt at 190k miles. This motor just keeps going and going and going.

Would you change the water pump? What else?

On a side note, I was stuck in traffic tonight and noticed a red temp light on. Looked at the temp gauge and it was pegged in the red. Pulled off the highway, turned off the engine for 10 minutes and all was good when I started it back up. Made a bee line for a gas station and put some water in, but not much. Drove another 25 miles home in stop and go traffic without a problem.

I have a 2000 F-150 with the 4.6. The damn thing simply never breaks. I know the coils can be a pain, but I've yet to have an issue. I recently bought a 2002 Mustang GT with 175k on the clock. Pulls hard, doesn't smoke, idles smooth. The modular Ford are great motors.

If it ain't broke.....

A certain crap-colored-shipping-company uses the 4.6L in their huge overloaded Grumman bodied package cars going up-and-down hills.
Daily. Full out.
I was doing trailers/tractors/etc on a different shift, out of touch with the night crew, but never heard of engine replacements.

Not great power, but it pulls.
If sets a hard code, however, it runs like a wet noodle.

Mainly the suspension. It goes bad over such a long time period that it's hard to notice a defect.

My commuter is a '99 Camry V6 with 215,000......I replaced all 4 struts at about 160,000. Was a huge improvement. In all those miles, the only thing that has broken was a wiper motor.....$29 for another on Ebay........

Good to know. Our 2000 has 170K on the clock. Bridged the leaf on the wiper motor, one coil pack went dead at 150K, since I have turned the front rotors and changed the pads. Time for struts. Not worried about the timing belt as it's a non-interference motor.

Attend to your thermostat & radiator...it sounds like.
Change hoses if old.

If you added water it has to be going someplace. As mentioned check for leaks. If it's a water jacket leak check to see if your oil is white/frothy or if it's steam out the exhaust.

In your case you have a problem, so the answer is NOW.;) Definitely troubleshoot the cooling system, if there's not a leak it's very likely you need a water pump or thermostat.

I'm pretty OCD on preventative maintenance, I do all of the maintenance by the book and will replace common wear items prematurely as well. Suspension is probably the biggest refresh item for me, it won't strand you but it certainly impacts the way your car drives.

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

If it has any sort of corrosion or rust, I consider it broken.

Engine is in great shape. No drips or leaks that I know of. I'll change the oil today and look for moisture.

I have to say I haven't checked the water level in years, since I replaced the coolant and hoses.

I want it to last long enough to get a new truck in the next year.

Talking about high mileage car: I drive my 1982 Toyota Landcruiser as a daily driver with around 600,000 miles on it. The odometer stopped working in the mid nineties at 160,000 miles! yeah I did replace a few parts but the engine and main transmission are still original. I will keep it for a long time and replace whatever is necessary, short of engine or transmission, I guess.

hoses and belts.

the rest, i just watch for the warning signs.

My brother has a ton Ford with the V10. Whereas he has needed to put 8 of the spark plug heli-coils in, and one alternator, the rest of the truck still runs flawlessly at some 310,000. More than that now, that's the odometer last time I asked...

Original transmission, original rear-end. He did put all new belts/pulleys and hoses on it this year strictly as a preventative measure. Other than that, guess he'll just keep driving it until it breaks.

angela

Check the rubber fittings on the PCV system. I just did a 5.4 with nagging idle problems. Turned out all the hoses were collapsed.

My father in law sold his V10 F250 at about 180k. Original spark plugs, diff, transmission, engine, transfer case. The only real work done was a front end rebuild at about 100k. Still ran and drove great despite being used as a work truck and tow rig.