Plumbers, why was my tub plumbed this way?
 

I am replacing the handles on my roman tub which has been a joke in complexity and length thanks to the dumbass valve companies, but that is for another discussion.

I have to replace the valves and I'm not sure if what I'm seeing is normal or was a shortcut when the house was built.

The copper pipe coming out of the wall is 1/2", it is then reduced down to long spooled 5/8" run, then goes back to 1/2" at the current valve.

My question is two fold: Is there a good reason the pipe was reduced at all? Why not just 1/2 the whole way? Pressure related?

Also, from the pipe coming out of the wall to the actual valve was ~2ft. yet the original plumber has about 5ft of the 5/8" pipe spooled up before the valve right now...any reason for that? maybe just in case the tub handles were installed some other place than where they are currently (close to the wall)

I can take a couple pics if I didn't accurately describe things...thanks!

spooled? That might mean its tubing, so it should be 1/2". No big deal really in terms of float pressure.

The lazy plumber's help just did not want to walk to the truck for a cutter so he left it and slammed the tub in place. His boss weren't there so what the heck. I think that's what's going on. Yeah, need pics to clarify. No big deal really. YOu just have to drain that 5' of water in the tubing is you need hot water. A little waste that's all.

K.I.S.S.

The 5/8 pipe section fit at the time.
It was sourced with a piece of scrap copper tube in the back of the plumber's truck.
1/16" difference doesn't affect any flow.

You know that 5/8" is bigger than 1/2" right?


Seriously though, a length of coiled up tube could have 2 functions.

1. If it is loose, this could act like a snubber to prevent water hammer.
2. This could have been done to facilitate assembly (solder everything up and slide it into place). This is kind of like how gas dryers, stoves,and dishwashers are plumbed in.

As mentioned,without pictures,nobody can be 100% sure.

I agree that maybe the slack was to be able to get behind the tub and hook everything up before sliding it into its spot.

I meant 3/8" (not 5/8")

Here is a pic of what I'm seeing. The valve basically goes directly above the spooled copper pipe.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416171150.jpg

So there is no reason to have all that extra copper? I'd rather just remove it and run some pipe straight to the new valve.

that is fuched up, friction loss is huge in that ⅜ tube, no flow to the shower head or will take hours to fill the tub. I would replace with ½ tubing at a minimum. And use a balanced single lever mixing valve and your done.

Mickey Mouse....

Thats what I thought...it did take forever to fill the tub.

So next question...to remove the spooled up copper, can I just take my torch to the fitting shown and should the old solder melt and I can remove it or will I have to do some cutting?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416179058.jpg



I'm planning on putting a 1/2" copper stub at the the 90 then running flexible tube with sharkbite fittings on both ends...any issues with that? The tub will cover all of this so I don't care about looks at all.

Yeah, sorry; I take back what I said. That looks pretty dumb.

Does the fixture end accept 1/2"?

Lazy asses that didn't want to take a hike to their trucks to get a cutter. Boss felt asleep on the job and didn't check on his guys. 3/8" is what the Valve inlet calls for? You aren't going go get much more flow out of your spout because most of the valves are regulated to, I think its 2.2 GPM.

Take it in and see if they have a 1/2" adapter inlet for that valve. I am not sure if that will flower any more that what's already regulated.

it hard to see in the picture, but those 90's at the ends of the arrows are 1/2", they just sweated in a reduced immediately that isnt showing in the pictures.

I was hoping I could just remove the reducer, 3/8" tube and old valve and start fresh with 1/2" the whole way...will that not work?

I have replaced all the copper pipe in my home with cpvc myself. Haveing said that I am not so sure I would want the shark bite conectors behind a wall where I could not get to them easily in case of a leak. Buy nature they flex a little bit with the on/off flow of the pressure. The sharks did work just fine for me as temporary fittings during the month it took me to replace all of the copper with plastic. Not sure I would want a shark behind a wall. But then I am not a plumber.

I'm sorry but I work for Mickey Mouse and we'd never do schit like that.

I have gone to PEX for all my pluming lately. Sure makes things simple for me.

Remove the 1/2" elbows and go to pex adapters. These are very easy to work with.

Absolutely this. Why make life difficult when PEX will totally take care of it for you.

That's what I would do.

Be careful with large home center stuff. Buy a product where you know they will carry replacement valves.

Lol that is funny

you gotta remember back in the day copper didn't cost anything so they were just being lazy and/or just getting rid of some left over material

there was absolutely no reason for leaving the loops like that

and yes you can just unsweat the 1/2" 90s and then solder on new fittings...you will need to clean the solder off first though with sandpaper so new fittings will fit