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The Best Cheapest Knife for B-ushcraft
Here is the Cheaper Than Dirt Rough Use Knife. This particular one in the video is labeled a MTech. I believe MTech is who makes them for Cheaper Than Dirt. I contacted Cheaper Than Dirt Recently and they said they would be getting some more of these in, but that they were unsure of when it would be.
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And if you have some time to kill...
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Interesting...though I'm not sure it belongs in PARF...
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It's made in China! :)
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This guy says he bent one battoning a 2 year old dried log...
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When I'm bush walking I carry a small axe and a medium sized non folding knife in my back pack. (both very sharp)
Guess which one gets used 98% of the time. |
I carry my tomahawk (very sharp) and a good folding knife.
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Oh dear, I thought that knifetest guy had retired and we'd stop seeing his nonsense.
The cheapest good bushcraft knife is a Mora. Morakniv |
Agree on Mora. I bought by son a nice carbon blade with high-vis red handle for about $8. It came with a functional but unattractive sheath. If you want to spend more, you can.
Larry |
this thread is "salt in my wounds" :D
i just recently got a new knife. $160..(idiotic,i know). i kinda dulled it. half on purpose to see if i could get it back with my pack kit. nope. the knife actually arrived with a tiny nick in the blade and i wanted to get it out.. i got the nick out, but my knife is kinda dull. some parts of the blade are wicked sharp. some, really toothydull. like the laminate blade is delaminating. very effen annoying. pulled it out of the pack and put the MORA back. it cannot be bested. ever. $12!! |
The funny part with Mora is that steel is top-notch but the sheet/handle is awful :) It uses a very fine-grain steel. While there are cheap knifes using harder but more grainy steel, you cannot sharpen them as mush as "grains" (on microscopic level) will just keep falling off. Trying to sharpen a grainy steel is like trying to sharpen a piece of granite. It sure is tough but it will never have "razor edge" no matter how fine stone is used...
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Quote:
the handle and sheath are losers. BUT...i have since changed my tune. the handle is comfy. very comfy. the partial rat tang? pffttt..the day i pull a blade out of any handle is the day, i high five myself. i am simply not that strong. i tried to break the pelvic bone with my mora. stuck the blade into the anus area, and tried to lift it up thru the pelvis bone. i picked up the deer a bit, groaned in pain..and put the load back down. next time, i am using a "class I lever" and prying up. hell, if it does break, i am out $12. (despite me being an idiot, my knife never dulled!) the sheath..awesome. i cleaned mine out of blood and muck with a paper towel and a chopstick!! you cant do that with any other sheath. mora is the epitome of "form follows function". i love them. i want to visit the factory!! hahaha. hug someone over there. |
Grain size is primarily a function of the heat treatment. A high-quality heat treatment of multiple normalization cycles followed by proper hardening and tempering results in a nice tight grain structure. Of course the heat treatment regimen must be tailored specifically to the steel chemistry (carbon content + alloying elements). But a knifemaker who knows what steel he's using and what the proper heat treatment protocol is can make a very durable, wear-resistant blade as long as the steel itself is what it's advertised to be.
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I have a Mora "Light my Fire" Knife.
Excellent piece of kit.. |
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