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Big decision as I am thinking of going from my 35MPG diesel Passat to it......
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Don't buy the M5 if you are going to worry about the mileage. I get 16 mpg in normal driving......but it will go to 12 if I exercise it properly. I can get 20 on the highway at a steady 80mph. I do have a Dinan 3.45 rear dif. With the standard rear, 18 and 23 would be more typical.
But hey, with gas so cheap, now is the time! |
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You should never, ever have problems with any of the HVAC system- it's practically unheard of on these cars- just the Blower resistor / FSU. I don't know of anyone who has had to do heater cores or evaporators. Keep it loaded with BMW or Pentosin NF coolant (I think they are the same) and you'll be good forever.
Frankly, a lot of BMW forums (especially lesser models) are loaded with armchair mechanics with no real experience and check writers with really, really evil service writers teling them what to do- most of the stuff I read about these cars simply isn't true, and many times the procedures are wrong. The suspension and engine are much more durable than many claim. Unless you are absolutely abusing the car, it'll last. I was expecting to need new struts, all bushings, etc. etc. on mine and it was unfounded. My 2002 with 101K was also a similar experience. Struts aren't dead at 30K, and no the ball joints don't fail early.. rjp |
I bought a 2000 M5 and put 198k miles on it. I'd do it again tomorrow. The car was basically problem free and I don't baby cars. The biggest repair bill I had was a new clutch. $1900 I averaged 20 mpg on a 50+ mile daily commute, part highway part city. No vanos problems. No cooling system problems. Check out the m5board for more info. I tracked it a few times and it was a beast on the track. Loads of power but quite heavy. A great daily driver!
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Looked on Autotrader last night 98 available 2000 to 2003 M5s. As stated from $13,000 to $49,000. I must say this thread has been encouraging.
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I would say $25-30k based on the low mileage. The E39 M5 seems to be holding it's value better than the E60, which you can now buy for similar money.
Great info on this thread, the only common thing I didn't see was the MAF. There's two of them, I believe they are about $400, and they fail frequently giving all sorts of strange CEL messages. Also be on the lookout for a knocking engine, they do like to spin connecting rod bearings. The interior is pretty cheaply made, if not taken care of it will show its age with rattles, leather wear, drooping headliner, cracked plastic panels, etc. |
epilogue: The car was overpriced and in need of a good service for delayed maintenance as well as a full sorting.... given the visceral experience of my 3.6 911 the M5 was beyond underwhelming...... It also clarified how reliant I have become on creature comforts in my daily driver.....
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Years ago when I was in auto / retail service I saw the first E39 M5 and absolutely fell in lust until I had a chance to drive and work on many. While impressive overall, after driving one for a while you discover you really have to lean on it, wring it out to get the most out of it. If you're not thrashing it it does feel like a big somewhat under powered sedan (as a previous post accurately pointed out)
THEN I had a several opportunities to drive a E39 sport / 6-speed. THAT'S when I my lust shifted. MO the best all around car for the money, when tuned, comes close to M5 overall performance but is sooooo much better as DD. It also comes with-out the BMW M-tax (that until you've shredded a large amount of $100 bills you can't appreciate their 'engineering') When it came time to buy a really great example a few years back, I didn't even consider a M5 of that generation. I bought this.......................................... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1420913607.jpg 2000 Sport / 6-speed. Full BMW M5 body conversion, Complete HR suspension, ESS tuned with early large runner intake and resonator eliminator, Vintage Beyern 19"s, etc etc |
My 540I auto has 167K now, and still zero oil consumption, literally. I've had my transmission rebuilt at 160K...I think about a new car and it's just fiscally not responsible, I have no reason to sell or trade it. Interior on mine looks pretty mint with the exception of a hairline crack in the center console wood, ashtray and on the CD player cover (common with heat). I also had the A pillar and C pillars redone in alcantara (promptly faded by sunlight :mad: )
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1420915257.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1420915328.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1420915369.jpg I have farted in this seat so many times, and it still looks OK- not much bolster wear after years in the desert. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1420915566.jpg rjp |
Randy--do your front cup holders still operate?
What a horrible design!! |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1420919097.jpg |
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a clean 50k mile car would strike me as $35-40k and a value at that in my opinion. |
What could it possibly need @ 50K? Tires and a cabin filter?
rjp |
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Yes; Selden Motors, they had two.....
Price $30,000 reasonable if car was turn key..... Delayed Maintenance: Check engine light on Sorting: Brake lights out, windshield washers not working, heated seats not working.... Tires good...... |
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check the cat too. that car has lots of life in it. |
reset check engine light, see what codes comes back if they come back- could be old phantom codes from previous errors not properly reset.
Pop the hood while you hit the washers- you'll see it spitting bad under the hood passenger side if the lines are broken. As long as the car isn't pieced together from two M5's I'd check the brake light switch. Can fail....I wouldn't be scared of it, really. Look up i910 scanner- I LOVE MINE. Reads all BMW codes- these cars are so sophisticated it will tell you if your AUX fan is going it- it did on mine, and it was correct. rjp |
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