looking at a used mountain bike

[Aggie93]

I know there are a lot of cyclist here and I've been out of the sport for a couple decades and have never ridden a mountain bike.

I want to look at a used bike to make sure I actually use it. Most of the riding will be road and packed trails. I was looking mostly at rigid fork, but there is a good chance I'll go on rough trails. I whitewater kayak and there are good places to ride in those areas.

I found this one on CL. Not sure if it is too old and I should go with a newer bike.

TREK 8000 2001 Mountain Bike 17.5"

Here is the Bluebook: 2001 Trek 8000 - New and Used Bike Value

And bikepedia: 2001 Trek 8000 - BikePedia


Thanks for any help

[Aragorn]

If this one is still available I would go for it instead. States he wants $150 but you could probably get it for less. Seen some wear but the bones look good.

*updated info* Gary Fisher Advance Medium 26er new drive train

[craigster59]

I used to have that exact bike. Won it in a golf tournament, at the time it was a $1200 bike. Top of the line Shimano Deore LX components, Ritchey rims and iCon crank and handlebars. I gave it to my cousin, he still rides the hell out of it.

Edit: Now that I look closer, I had the 1999 version : http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=88944&make=750&model=41706&year=1999

[porsche4life]

Are there any 29ers in your budget? The big rolling stock really helps with bumps.

[Aggie93]

Originally Posted by Aragorn

If this one is still available I would go for it instead. States he wants $150 but you could probably get it for less. Seen some wear but the bones look good.

*updated info* Gary Fisher Advance Medium 26er new drive train

Thanks, I saw that one and per bluebook (i know it is not the best), it was $300 new and the price in good condition is $70. Was looking at getting something better quality. Might be a better bike to test waters if I can get it cheap.

[Aggie93]

Originally Posted by porsche4life

Are there any 29ers in your budget? The big rolling stock really helps with bumps.

This one is much farther away and would like to stay under $500: Cannondale 29'er

Otherwise seems much closer to $1k.

There is this one, but cannot tell if it is 29: Specialized Hardrock Mountain Bike

[Aggie93]

Another contender, but not a 29.

2009 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo

Getting to the upper range of what i want to pay and less likely to upgrade from it.

[VincentVega]

Paying a little more for disc brakes is $$ well spent if you are going to ride hard at all.

[intakexhaust]

Originally Posted by VincentVega

Paying a little more for disc brakes is $$ well spent if you are going to ride hard at all.

+1.... but only if you plan to ride hard or want to keep up with a fast group of riders.

I consider myself a fairly avid cyclist and I do ride all type and terrain. A few weeks ago I looked over some new Giant ATB, 2014 closeouts. There's some decent mid-grade deals in that $1k range. Terrific bikes and all that but then while closing my eyes, lifted each one that I was admiring. They all weigh like fat little pigs ready for the butcher. To get something light, you've got to open the wallet considerably.

I'm thinking to myself, I'm not racing, in no hurry while out in the back country and no longer launch like a lunatic. So, I'm rather impressed with an old bike. Just going my pace on a simple, vintage 21 lbs Specialized Stumpjumper, Tange Prestige tubed that's robust and proven with old Shimano XT / LX stuff. All nominal maintenance and takes a few knocks and abuse. No monkey motion suspension with problematic pivots and bushings. Its riding on 26" rubber but not as fast as the ones noted below.

BTW: The Stumpy mentioned was $40.

Other bikes I ride off-road:
A vintage Motobecane upper-end road bike, drop bar, steel Reynolds 531 tubing throughout including fork. Geared for the occasional challenging climb and 700 x 34C cross tires. Its 21 /22 lbs. and with this diameter fast rubber it tackles the majority of single track and gravel really well. Granted this particular bike has an unusual rake and geometry of that era yet happens to be ideal off-road and climbing. Quite a hoot sometimes pouncing past young guys on their high zoot FS bikes. They can get a short burst and pull but not for long. The weight handicap, too much pogo suspension burning efficiency and run out of endurance.

Next is a late model (2010) Giant Rapid 1. Sub 20 lbs., hydro formed aluminum frame with carbon fork. Again, I've done some gearing changes and set-up a second set of wheels for a quick swap for off-road. 700 x 34C knobbies. I fit them under the caliper brakes by first deflating the tire and then squeeze under them, then inflate. It has a flat bar with typical index shifters but I added road drop bar ends. Harsher ride but this bike hauls and climbs like a rabbit. The sacrifice is not being able to scream down rough descents but more like technical crawl.


Lastly, I use a Camelback for all of my riding off-road. Take the weight off the chassis and no worry of flying loose bottles. All my tools, spares are in the Camelback. For the above bikes and when off-road, slap on a neoprene / velro chainstay protector.

[LEAKYSEALS951]

Another big thing to check for with a used bike is drivetrain wear. Over, time, the chain stretches, wearing 1/2 moon divets/stretching into the cassette/ front ring teeth, and eventually the chain jumps straight over them when power is applied. Sometimes the wear gets so bad putting a new chain on the old cassettes makes matters even worse and you end up having to replace all cogs, chain, and front chainrings, which is expensive and ruins your day.

As for v brakes vs disc- I think it depends on where you live. If you are in a fairly flat area or only moderate hills, v brakes are lighter, simpler, and less maintenance. Get in a mountainous area with 1000+ foot descents and whatnot, and you might want to go disc brakes. I still have v brakes on my dinosaur- and have done a lot of long distance MTB races with them, and only on the long descents do I wish I had the disk brakes (like 10 mile descents and stuff).

Also, for any used full suspension bike, really examine the bushings for wear. A lot of them get super sloppy with age.

[JavaBrewer]

Originally Posted by Aggie93

I know there are a lot of cyclist here and I've been out of the sport for a couple decades and have never ridden a mountain bike.

I want to look at a used bike to make sure I actually use it. Most of the riding will be road and packed trails. I was looking mostly at rigid fork, but there is a good chance I'll go on rough trails. I whitewater kayak and there are good places to ride in those areas.

I found this one on CL. Not sure if it is too old and I should go with a newer bike.

TREK 8000 2001 Mountain Bike 17.5"

Here is the Bluebook: 2001 Trek 8000 - New and Used Bike Value

And bikepedia: 2001 Trek 8000 - BikePedia


Thanks for any help

IMO that first TREK you linked is the way to go. Clean it up, tune the brakes and shifting, new cables where needed, new rubber, and ride the thing. If after 6 months you really start to notice that you are hampered by gear you can upgrade then. It can be a slippery slope - bicycles get really spendy quickly.

[VincentVega]

As for v brakes vs disc- I think it depends on where you live.

Good advice.

I'm a fat guy now and my old v brakes sing and have limited use when I pick up the pace. Whenever I'd ridden a friend bike with disc brakes and am so impressed with the brakes.

I agree the Trek is a solid bike for most uses, assuming the drivetrain is useable.

[Aggie93]

The Trek listed was just sold and not to me.

Making plans to see the GF Aragorn posted. I don't mind upgrading if I do put in seat time. Plus I'd have a better feel for what I'm going to ride and then use this as a beater bike.

Any comments on the other bikes? Just found out the Hoo Koo has sold

[aigel]

That first trek at almost $300 is way too expensive. Lots of unknowns. May need chain, cassette, deraileur and a bottom bracket and it is a $500 bike ...

You can buy a nice brand new trek $500 new which will be much better than the above. Last year I bought a Trek Excaliber 5 for $500 out the door - 29er with mechanical disk brakes. It looks like that may no longer be offered though, with the 6 now being the entry model at around 800. That'd be a hell of a bike with hydraulic discs.

G

[porsche4life]

The new bike route is the way I went. Was looking at junk on Craigslist for 500. For 730 I got s new marlin with cable disc brakes and free lifetime tuneups from the shop I got it at.

[intakexhaust]

Reading where the OP plans to ride, a mountain bike isn't necessary. And you don't need a 29er either.

Should easily find a better quality 700c cross racer in that budget. Though my post above mentions of a flat bar but added road drop bar-ends. This set-up is a bit wider than a typical cross racer and NO dual control road levers. It allows me far greater control and safe grip, easy shifting and brake control. The road drop 'ends' DOES not allow the ability to brake while in that hand position. The compromise is a big caution should you decide to ride an occasional paceline. (Far better safety being on the flat bar.)

BTW: The set-up I mentioned sounds unconventional but ultimately you want a machine to cover terrain and what works best for you. I've often ridden 100+ mile days - OFF ROAD, hard pack, gravel, moderate elevation to a few steep climbs. Most of the fellows in the group on ATB are dogging after 50 miles or completely done in. The others on cross riders are smooth sailing.

search cyclocross or cyclo cross X on CL

[Eric Coffey]

For mostly pavement, with light packed-trail duty:
Scott Sub 30 Bike EN14764

Or for HT MTBs, Here are a few that might be worth a look...

2013 Trek Wahoo 21" 29er
Specialized 2014 Rockhopper 29er
2006 Gary Fisher Mountain Bike 29er- PARAGON
2011 Specialized Sport Disc
TREK BIKE 8.4 DS
Trek Black Mamba - virtually new
Specialized Hardrock Mountain Bike

I'm not a big Trek fan, but you could certainly do worse.

You might want to go test ride a couple to see if you prefer a 29er over the standard (26") set up. I dig the 29ers, but some people think they are a bit harder to manage/turn, especially when things get a bit technical.

Another option would be to find a 27.5" build, or a 26" MTB that has frame clearance for 27.5" (650B) tires, and pick up a set.
That seems to be a best-of-both-worlds solution, and even the big-name manufacturers have jumped on the bandwagon with 27.5" factory offerings now.

[Aggie93]

Originally Posted by Eric Coffey

For mostly pavement, with light packed-trail duty:
Scott Sub 30 Bike EN14764

Or for HT MTBs, Here are a few that might be worth a look...

2013 Trek Wahoo 21" 29er
Specialized 2014 Rockhopper 29er
2006 Gary Fisher Mountain Bike 29er- PARAGON
2011 Specialized Sport Disc
TREK BIKE 8.4 DS
Trek Black Mamba - virtually new
Specialized Hardrock Mountain Bike

I'm not a big Trek fan, but you could certainly do worse.

You might want to go test ride a couple to see if you prefer a 29er over the standard (26") set up. I dig the 29ers, but some people think they are a bit harder to manage/turn, especially when things get a bit technical.

Another option would be to find a 27.5" build, or a 26" MTB that has frame clearance for 27.5" (650B) tires, and pick up a set.
That seems to be a best-of-both-worlds solution, and even the big-name manufacturers have jumped on the bandwagon with 27.5" factory offerings now.

Thanks. All those bikes are either large (I need a medium at 5' 8"), or 1.5 hours away.

Only the gold specialized would be a consideration, I have an email into him.

I see the 20w50 being poured. I contacted this guy (trek x caliber 8 ) and he'll take 650. Thanks aigel for helping pour.

Intake, thanks. I first started looking at rigid fork (like a Trek FX), but there is a good chance I'll go on rougher trails. I was not sure how well a rigid fork would work. Thought since I will only have one bike for the near future, looking at a hardtail with front suspension would be more versatile.

[JavaBrewer]

No NEW bike under $750 is worth a damn. Sure you get new paint, shiny groupo, disk brakes, but it will fall apart when you push it.

OP - keep looking for a used early year 2K bike in the $300 range. You will get more for your money and it will have resale if/when you out grow it.

[Aggie93]

To close this out. I ended up buying the Gary Fisher Aragorn posted. I realized I started going down the slippery slope of for $50 I can get this, well $100 more and... I reminded myself I first was looking for a bike in order to do shuttle for kayaking when it is just my family and don't have two cars. I'm also in a mentoring program and my mentee enjoys riding and it is a pain to rent bikes every time and be confined to those areas. Additionally, I have not cycled in over 20 years. I don't know what type of riding I'll actually do.

By buying a cheap bike, I won't mind leaving it in the middle of state park unattended for hours. Plus, I'll be able to figure out if I'll really be mountain biking so my next purchase will be more informed. Then I'll have a beater/loaner/leave in the middle of the woods bike as well.

Of course, right after I purchase, this comes up for sale: Cannondale Caffeine 29er