Back in 1968, I went thru basic trainig (drafted) with the M-14.......the last cycle to do so, I'm told. Then they went to a black rifle.
I was sent overseas to the East, not the West.

Ended up in a detachment in the boonies of Nothern Greece....I'd rather be lucky than good any day. Standard issue over there was still the M-14.
We got new issue of 3600 rnds every 6 months.
We had to use up the old stuff. 6-8 troops at the rifle range is a lot of shooting per body....I always volunteered to be one of them guys. Your body hurt before it was over and the next day was worse.

I have the urge to get a Mini14 but in .223....but not a black one.

Ahhh, took a look......it's just a variation of the alt-c (alternate course) qual for the army.

I never qual'd alt-c, but I knew guys who did and they said it was a lot easier than LGM whac-a-mole

Tangent reply alert: I do not. I bought the gun from David (Targa911s) and it has performed perfectly. Dave may be able to help!

That's what I was told the Appleseed Qualification Test is "inspired by".

I've done two Appleseeds so far and have two more planned for this year. 2 days of basic rifle marksmanship instruction for $60. How can you go wrong?

Wow, I know some guys I should point in that direction!

I recommend it to anyone, including advanced rifle shooters (I consider myself intermediate at best). Even if you "know it all" it's an excellent opportunity to work on your fundamental skills.

Jim,
I only shoot LC match or equivalent, 168, 173, 175gr.
30-06 starts running out of gas FAST at long range (700+ yd)
.308/7.62x51 still a good killer at 800yd. And more. That's why it's the non-magnum round of choice for precision long range tactical work.

There's a lotta time between the development of the two rounds...

Carter

Well, it's here. Probably fitting in some way, going into Memorial Day weekend and all.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1432324405.jpg

Just a few observations, now that it's in hand.

First, considering the cost of one of these things, it could really use some more love in the stock finishing department. There essentially is none. You know how when you pull the barreled action out of a bolt gun's stock, how bone dry the wood is in the barrel channel and around the action? This one is like that on the outside. No discernible difference between the "finish" inside the barrel channel vs. the outside of the stock. It does smell strongly of linseed oil, though.

Second, this is a very simple rifle, which is a good thing. I'm sure it's quite rugged and able to withstand use under some pretty miserable conditions. It is, in addition to being simple and rugged, pretty roughly finished. The metal parts are left as machined or cast, with no evidence whatsoever of any hand finishing, polishing, or any of that. This is, after all, a "military" rifle, isn't it? So, overall, not a lot of care and attention in finishing it, certainly not like any kind of sporting rifle.

Which leads me to this: Why are these so freaking expensive? I have bolt guns, lever guns, and single shots that are every bit as "rugged" and "reliable", but each and every one of them wears a vastly superior finish - which is where the money goes, or so we are told. I don't think I would pay $400-$500 for a sporting rifle finished to this standard. Certainly, for what one pays for one of these, one can get a very nicely finished sporting rifle.

Oh well, maybe I'm too hung up on fit and finish. I have not shot it yet (still need to load up some ammo). I'll be starting out with 168 grain Match Kings and 40-42 grains of IMR4895. That's supposed to be one of the better loads for these.

Ability and willingness to pay?
After all, you did.
;)
.
And I might as well.

Yup. More than willing, more than able, and genuinely curious about the whole thing. Don't get me wrong - I'm not disappointed in the least. It is a very, very cool rifle. It's just a whole new genre to me. I'm pretty excited to get to know this thing. For what I paid for it, though, I could have bought a very nicely finished '74 Sharps or something similar from Shilo, C.Sharps Arms, etc. The level of fit and finish on those is more what I'm used to. I'm sure the M1A will prove to be quite nice in its own way, though.

I do have to say that every "black rifle" I've ever handled has left me cold. I know they "are what they are", but it's just not what I'm used to. This one is better, though - the wood stock really helps (and the fact it still smells like linseed oil).

I'm really anxious to shoot it. I think that's where its "beauty" will shine through. :)

Are you thinking of refinishing the stock?
If so, I'll pass along what I did...with photos, if you'd like...with two SKS stocks.
.
Briefly, I stripped them, let them dry out, then treated with 100% pure Tung oil several times using Citrus solvent for cutting and sanding-in the slurry each time.
I let them dry for days in between...and finally after a final dry of a few weeks, I applied several coats of Tru oil ...sanding in between with 0000 bronze wool.
Final outcome is staggering...to me, anyway.
.
One stock I refinished in natural and the other one I bought J. E. Moser's red-brown mahogany dye granules and dissolved them in Citrus solvent/Tung oil mixture.
The red-brown stock looks awesome, I must say (of course I would). :)

id love to see pictures of that.

I'm taking photos of items and writing ads to sell on craigslist...consuming my time...gimme a day or two.

Me too - any pics, Don?

I think what I'm going to do with this one is keep it as "G.I." as possible. I'll rub some more boiled linseed oil into it just to bring it past its current totally dry appearance, and call it good at that. I've got plenty of "purty" rifles, with far nicer wood under far nicer finishes, so no need to put lipstick on this pig. Besides, it kinda adds to its "ness" as a "battle rifle". I feel like I could hit someone over the head with it and not have to worry about the finish.

When I've used BLO on wood I like to warm it up a bit...even warm the wood in the sun, if possible...the wood seems to drink it in better.
Also, since I bought a gal. of 100% Tung oil (mega bucks), I prefer it over BLO.
Especially when cut with Citrus solvent. Much better aroma and it just seems "friendlier"...if you know what I mean. Much more pleasant experience when applying it with bare hands and rubbing/fondling it.
Also, BLO can get sort of crusty and hard...not the Tung.
.
But I like your approach...I like that military look.

Maybe I'll try the tung oil instead, then. I used up my last bit of boiled linseed on a flintlock a few years back, so I need to go out and buy some oil anyway.

I've always cut the boiled linseed with mineral spirits for the first few coats. That, and like you say, warmer is better. The last few coats I apply 100%, with the oil warmed, and rub it into the wood with an old flannel shirt. This provides a very smooth, lustrous, 100% filled finish. Not what I'm after here, so I'll just put a few of the thinned coats on and let them soak in.

100% Tung oil...not that MinWax crap...or any likeness.
And citrus solvent.
But you know that. ;)
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Where I bought my stuff:
.
Oils - The Real Milk Paint Co.

Jeff,
If you only need a small amount - 8 oz. or so, I'll mix up some 100% Tung and Citrus solvent in any ratio you'd like and mail it to you in an 8 oz. container.
How's that?
Even a small amount is expensive to buy. That's why I bought a gal.
.
PM your address...if so.

Jeff. Your comments in post 54 sound too much like common sense. Go for it.

Wow, Don - thanks a bunch. That would be great. You know what I'm after here, and I have never used the stuff, so I'll go with whatever you recommend on the ratio. PM on its way...