VIDEO #8 (5:20 or click this direct link https://youtu.be/C9w9h5mYQtE?t=5m17s)
Should he have straightened the wheel once he was on the dirt, and then slowly edged back onto the track?
Or better yet, just safely roll to a stop?
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This one is almost identical (VIDEO #9)
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Ask your PCA instructor about "two feet down" at your next DE event.

Saving a car takes a bit more skill.

Differential traction and turning don't go together. If you get two wheels off, keep the front wheels pointed straight and coast down to a reasonable speed. If you can inch over onto the track, fine. But any real steering input at speed is going to be risky.

This is easy for me since I road raced motorcycles. You learn the lesson real quick on a bike!

VIDEO #9
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A good save should be followed by some driver emotion.
my example.
https://youtu.be/AVM8-WhXheY?t=7m38s

Sugar, I think you aren't the same guy that started posting these vids and started asking questions a few years back, but I suspect, you could probably learn a lot by reading these.

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One of the problems with trying to figure out what went wrong in these videos is that you don't know the preparate of the car and you may not know the track. The car could have crap tires, crap alignment, corner balance issues or some other issue and the track could have a bump, a slick spot, oil mid corner, etc.... I suspect most of the issues are driver caused, but ever that, without having telemetry from the car to tell us what was going on with the gas and brakes and steering (added to the track conditions, bumps, elevation changes, etc...) means most of this is guessing (other than where the driver has chimed in.

Everything that Steve and Scott have said is spot on. There is a big difference between an experienced racer and car going off, and novice or intermediate DE driver. With the former you can rule out many mitigating factors (as Steve pointed out). With an amateur there are way too many possibles, with driver error being the biggest. When learning, the hardest thing to overcome is the instinct to lift or correct too abruptly when things get squirrley - especially in a rear engine car where any sudden change in inputs can unbalance the whole apple cart in a hurry. I personally grew up driving is bad conditions in a VW bug with no snow tires, so getting sideways became second nature - did the same on dirt bikes too. It's all practice - or as they say in jazz musician circles " the first 20 years are the hardest"...

Yeah saw that BMW 318 crash over on Jalopnik. Brakes are more important than engine swaps as this guy found out. Likely he lost a brake line to improper routing, abrasion causing the rest.

Had my first track day recently. Would only do it after completely going through brake system front to rear. New seals in calipers, pads, fluid, recent lines and master cylinder etc. Even fresh bushings in pedal cluster.

Ended up being more concerned about my car surviving the hamfisted instructors. One guy nearly broke my new ignition key, took many straightening attempts with two pairs of pliers to get it to even start the car. Second guy let clutch out at the wrong time causing a terrible gear noise in 4th which now has a slight noise on downshifting from 5th. Thanks PCA but from now on it's open track days for me....

PCA instructors drove your car?

Yes. No one shows up and drives solo or first until instructor takes a lap or two with you. At least in this region. Probably would've been better to have same instructor all day but there were so many newbs that they floated between cars. I will say the instruction was REALLY good.

I never drive a students car. I'd feel terrible if something broke or worse. If they're not getting it I'll take them out in my car at a speed I'd want them to do.
I've heard of some PCA regions that want instructors to drive the students car in the first session. I'm glad my region doesn't (Upper Canada).

Following up on my little hijack saga.

Turns out that a PO had replaced my shift coupler bushings (poly) and one of them was not a tight fit. Not apparent at first. The hamfisted shift possibly caused it to migrate. This and a slightly worn cone screw must've caused the noise which I now think was from nicking reverse. I put a stock coupler back in and the shifting is great with all five forward gears.

So not so much an instructor issue. I'm sure it's difficult driving different cars in various states.