Need advice/guidance on brush hogs...
 

Time to start a search for a bush hog (going behind a mid size JD) and I don't know squat. All advice, opinions and suggestons are welcome. I'm thinkin' "new", cause I don't want someone's beat up crap but haven't even begun to look yet. Probably a smaller one....4-5' (pros/cons?). Point me in the right direction guys!

Dang...wrong forum...

Anyone got advice on Obama hogs while I'm here :D

Not only the wrong forum, but I can't speel either....BUSH hogs (Brush was a typo, but luckily, I guess it still makes sense).

Bang for the buck, everything attachments.com or lands pride brand. Just bought an 8 footer lands pride this spring for work, it takes a serious beating and hasn't broke yet (40+ hrs a week of use)

I bought a used one off Craigs list. 5' It's an older York brand
I don't think you could wear this prehistoric critter out if you tried. I've used it
for a couple years around the farm with no issues
It eats 3" trees for breakfast

What do you mean by mid-size tractor? Need a HP rating. Described as a rotary cutter. Bush Hog is a trade name. +1 for Land Pride. Wood's has long been a solid company with good product. Heavier gauge steel.

You'll run it in a PTO 540 rpm (never in the high range). Set the tailwheel for the desired cut height, front should never drag to the ground but have a slightly lower angle than the rear. So if looking from the side, the bottom skid should be pitched a bit lower than the rear. Assuming you have a 3 point hitch, set the tractors lift arms and the upper link should properly set to float. Use anti-sway links. Also, the upper link on the tractor side should be pinned to the lowest hole.

Depends if the mower has a safety clutch (in case of hitting something) but you should have some mild grade shear pins handy. If out in the back forty, carry some extras.

Not much maintenance other than grease shots to the u-joints, drive shaft sleeve, tailwheel. Use a heavyweight gear lube in the box. Should have some sort of pipe plug for oil level. You want something that's simple to pull the blades. Once removed, and to sharpen, mount the blade in a vise, keep the exact factory angle and use an angle grinder to dress. Even if the blades have some nasty gouges or edge chunk out, don't worry about it. Doesn't matter to the cut quality. Just maintain the factory angle and get a mild edge to it - NOT razor like either.

Mid sized tractor could be a lot of things. I'm thinking 35 hp as mid-sized . What is the model and hp of the tractor you are using?

I run a five footer on a 38 hp Massey-Ferguson. Most of the time this is adequate power for ordinary mowing, but it will bog down occasionally when I push through heavy 'grass' that's five feet high. And, don't expect to bang through 3" thick brush every day and have the machine last for decades. It may be built for brush, but there are sane limits, but in any case check for rocks in unknown terrain. The blades pivot, but again there are limits when hitting rocks and stumps. Maintain it as intakexhaust outlines in his post and you'll be fine. It's a simple device - just be careful and stay safe.

Thanks guys...very informative already. I'm not sure about the JD (my uncle purchased it last year after an ice storm hit) and it's been a beast helping clear trees, etc. It's not "full size" however, but I'll get back with more specifics later. Though we've got 17 acres between us, the few acres it will be used on have been cleared of all rocks, etc. and I'll hit the bigger ones with a chainsaw before brushhogging. For example, I cleared over 1/2 acre of hundreds of dense pines last summer....grew up over several years and were 1-4" thick, and like bunnys, they're starting to come back like crazy. So it'll see light/moderate use a couple times per year on smaller 1-2 acre size areas....4-5 acres at most. I'm just beginning my research....

Enter the model number into tractordata.com and it will tell you the HP.

Great input so far concerning shear pins, set up and HP requirements.

I have a large rotary mower I use to keep the lines around the crop fields clear and pasture mowing. I also use it to clean up the fields after combining.

Of all the equipment I have on the farm the rotary mower is by far the most versatile and effective, but it is the piece of gear that demands the most attention when using. On the larger rotary mowers the spinning mass has a lot of power and inertia.

I never lend it out and my son wasn't allowed to use it until he was sixteen. I have never had any issues but I am very cautious when it is spinning behind my tractor.

Woods has an "economy" line-forget the brand-that's good bang for the buck. Mine has been solid for six years use behind a 600 Ford.

I don't recall if it was for a 5' or a 6' mower, but when Ford was still building them they specified the tip-speed of the blades when running at 540 rpm input. 300 mph !! Those blades are thick and heavy. I had one of the bolt/pivot pins that the blade attaches to fracture while running, and it fired the blade right through the heavy steel 'body' of the mower. I found it about 40' away. This episode bent the 1 inch thick blade to the extent that it was not usable.

So, again, be careful, and don't use one of these machines with people or animals standing around.

Thanks again guys for all of your advice and suggestions! I'm a "city boy", and only play in the country, but I hear you guys and have the utmost respect for things like this. I won't actually be the one using it (more than likely....at least anytime soon I hope). My grandfather kept this place with an old Ford and just had a relative/neighbor clear it as necessary, but now it's "our" turn. Just yesterday, one neighbor was clearing adjacent acerage and it sounded like all hell was breaking loose :D. I went by a rural dealer that caters to pros/farmers a few miles away from my property earlier....I know that dealer is "proud" of his stuff, but I got a sticker shock on the Bush Hog brand. I know my uncle paid around 1600 for his finish mower, and was expecting about half of that for a "hog". Once again, thanks....I'm just beginning to search, and might just keep my eyes peeled for an older used one. "He" thought we had one....got away however...."ya snooze ya lose" :p.

I've got a King Kutter that I bought used about 15 years ago. It's held up well over the years.
I cut around 15 acres every other year with it. Mostly grass but get into the saplings quite often.
I have broken a few shear pins and lost a blade once (like Jerome I found it but needed a new one). Tractor Supply has replacements.

Bought one from Tractor Supply last year, less than $1000, and if you time it right there are 10% off coupons....

I don't know how well it will hold up, but it's only a gearbox, driveshaft, and a few bearings.... not much to go wrong, parts are cheap.... sure it will outlast me.

Thanks for the tips guys....I'll check out TS and probably start looking for a good "used" one too. For my modest needs, I'm sure there are plenty of old "workhorses" out there to be found....

Just an update....the JD is 38hp, the finish mower is a Woods, and I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for an old workhorse (brand won't matter to me, as long as it's a good one). Thanks again guys....particularly on the safety warnings!

ps: Coolest thing this morning....a new born fawn (a few weeks old) was bedded down just 25 ft. from where we were working....it moved "casually" away after we fired the tractor up a second time and drove away. Then it was just casually walking down the other side of a large pond before I spooked it again later bedded down just a few feet away. I love my little slice of paridise ;)

I've just done a quick search and there seem to be plenty of optons with some of the reputable brands mentioned already. Before I go "shopping", for clearing relatively small areas (1-2 acres) with a few large trees etc. to clear around, behind a mid-size (38 hp) JD, what size cutter should I be looking for? 4/5/6'....I'm thinking 5'....need feedback from those with experience....again ;). Thanks!

edited: I've just located a 6' Bush Hog brand that looks great from the pic, is close by, and the price seems right (650)....is a 38hp tractor "enough"? I'm getting an itchy "trigger finger" :)

6' may be a little too much for your tractor. Keep in mind that when you lift it with the 3 pt. hitch
the front end will get very light. The 5' on my MF 230 (38 hp) will lift the front end at times. Front weights will help.

Thanks Pete! I've since talked with my uncle. Think I'll refine my search to a 4'er, and go check out TS & Northern Tool first...maybe a "new" King Kutter (delivered to the property and save some hassles) ;)???

I was thinking about this thread yesterday. I spent two hours with my rotary cutter in the pasture yesterday, then my son did the neighbors for another two hours. The pastures are both fenced.

My MF tractor (35hp) handles the 5' cutter very well. It is just about 6" wider on each side of the rear tires. I have mowed with it enough that I can mow along side the fence line without issue.

Just a couple of additional thoughts. Make sure you have the right shear pin. My son broke the main gearbox shaft a few years ago...I had put the wrong pin in and it was stronger than the rotary mower:eek:. Luckily, none of the internals were compromised and I rebuild it with a new shaft.

Go slow and keep the turns up on the mower.

Have fun!

Random tractor parts link:

Farm Machinery Implements

This place is like "tractor supply" on steriods. It's got some cheap stuff, but also heavy duty stuff that will last.

Another tip from a previous thread that I liked was to confirm your PTO's rated power output, not just the motors.

KC - you're in Greensboro, so also check out Agri-Supply (which is like a tractor supply store).

I have a 60" NorTrac rotary cutter. I also have a 60" finish mower that I got from Agri Supply.
My tractor is an old Ford 8N, which they claim is 27hp at the PTO.
The 8N powers both of them with NO PROBLEM

Thanks again guys...the PTO is rated at 30, so we should be fine on any 4-5' cutter. Paul, I hear you regarding the "extra 6 inches" on each side....no fence lines for us, but I'd suspect that helps cutting around stuff too so I'll rethink this with my uncle.

Cash....never heard of AgrSupply before (thanks!), is your finish a Kodiak, and is AS local to you or did you have it shipped. Easier to ask here than "pretend" to order one ;)

Go with a 5' since your tractor can handle it. It's 25% bigger than a 4'. That adds up to a lot of saved hours over time.

i should have been more clear...no worries on the extra width. Go with the 5'.

I have made every stupid mistake possible, first growing up on a small ranch in Cali and now here on the farm with equipment. The 5'er won't be a mistake.

Agri Supply will gladly ship via motor freight to your door. This is the option I chose. I purchased their AgMate 5' rear discharge mower, #65058 LINK - AND had it shipped to my door, and still came out cheaper than buying locally at Northern. And after comparing the two brands, I think it is made in the same Chinese factory as the NorTrac brand, just with a different paint job.

Yes, it's Chinese, but I have used it all last season, and am using it this season, with no regret so far.


If you want USA made, look at King Kutter. I *think* all their units are still made in Alabama. And if you decide you want a King Kutter, look at the County Line brand mowers sold by Tractor Supply. They are just a rebranded item made for them by the King Kutter company - so If you want a King Kutter, save yourself a few hundred dollars and buy the TSC branded unit.

Thanks Cash, good info to know when I start looking for a 5'er (after I talk to my uncle again :cool:)...thanks to all!

If your PTO is rated at 30hp, and especially if you are powered by a diesel engine (which has more low end torque than my gas engine) then I would be *very* tempted to step up to a 6' mower for finish work. I sure would not go any smaller than the 5' mower.

If we are still talking about a rotary mower for brush, then 5' is probably as big as you want. IMO, it's harder to keep the blades spinning at optimum speed for efficient cutting when you get into dense growth or woody materials. You should also make sure your blades stay sharp. At a minimum, check them at the start of every season. Trust me, it makes the work go a lot smoother/faster/easier.

This is the rotary cutter I purchased; a NorTrac 60" from Northern Tool
NorTrac 3-Pt. Roughcut Mower — 60in. Cutting Width, Model# 1104S082 | Category 1 Mowers| Northern Tool + Equipment

Even though it is also a less expensive Chinese item, it still comes standard with the center "stump jumper" disc - which is supposed to reduce the chances of pranging your center drive spindle.

Thank you all once again! After talking it over, we're going to be opting for a 4'er which just makes more sense for our property and the smaller areas we want to clear. Just to clarify Cash, yep he's using a Woods 6' finish and it is indeed a diesel. We want to go "American made"....just because, so it appears that NT has a 4' King Kutter for 899 (sounds good go me), but I'm certainly going to check out TS as you suggest for their version. And believe me guys....I've already learned to be safer from this thread!

I caught at least an 8-9 lb bass in my pond this morning ;)

Hey guys...I think this is the one I've decided on (with the optional chain guards). Before I squeeze the trigger in the next day or so, anyone see any issues with this one that I've missed?

King Kutter 4' Flex Hitch Rotary Kutter L-48-40-P-FH by King Kutter for $859.99 : Rural King

Well, sounds like you already have the expensive thing as in the tractor. I would otherwise suggest looking at something like a Hustler X-ONEi with a rear discharge for doing 17 acres if you did not need the tractor.

30HP at the PTO is OK. A 5' could feel a bit large at times but if you have a pull behind it might work easier for the tractor just a bit harder to manuever than the 3pt style. I would NOT suggest bigger than 5' but would steer closer to 4' with that size of tractor. For comparison my 60HP can get feeling a bit out of whack with an 8' cutter but the 6' is bang on.

King Kutter is low grade but would likely last you 50 plus years of just cutting a small area several times a year. Keep in maintained, oiled, greased, safe from rusting out. Clean it after each use.

If buying used (my path) make sure the blades spin by hand. If the box does not easily turn there might be an issue which could run up in money. Same with new. But you will need to look under the unit to make sure the blades are not sitting on the ground or otherwise blocked by debris.

Good for smaller units is that the newer units are lighter, less steel. This makes them easier on the smaller tractors to use. My old 5' blade is HEAVY!!! But it is 20 plus years old.

When cutting be cognizant that the blades WILL swing debri out the FRONT of the cutter at YOUR head. It happens! Sometimes it is just fire ants, sometimes branches or rocks. Some cutters have "shields" of chain to help stop the bigger items, most do not. I do not know of anyone who has had to get stiches but I know people (me as well) who have received a small bruise or two.

Wear a good cowboy style straw hat to block the sun unless you have a sunshade. Wear plenty of sunscreen. This is not an hour long job.

Wow Cash, did not realize I had pi$$ed in your Wheaties yesterday morning.

King Kutter is lighter grade metal, read that as less thick. Quite adequate for the stated use and as I stated will last for decades if properly cared for. No need to spend big money on a Brush Hog or other higher grade cutter. Note I did not have to edit my post...

No one had noted what the shielding chains were for, I was providing information. Guess I was wrong there too?

So the total of 17 acres means nothing to you? Maintaining 1 to 2 acres, more often to 4 to 5 acres. Of course, in my mind, 1 to 5 acres are better served with the zero turn mowers as they will provide a better and faster cut. A shredder, the type of mower we seem to be discussing, does not provide a finished cut but rather a shredded cut. And so I understand the advise to take care of himself with protection for which he may or may not have thought of is poor form.

Lovely.

Thank you ALL for posting on this thread...great input/advice from everyone! For now, the 6' Woods is doing this task for the 5 (or so) finished areas....I have a Skag Z-turn (that I might use later)....commercial grade that is a serious machine too ;)

^^ good stuff. Play safe.


Cool. Those Fords just keep working and working. When I was in high school, restored a '39 (ally dash / steering box, etc.). Hi / lo Sherman box. Used a mid-mount finish mower, believe 60". Drive over it, connect the links to the 3 point lift arms. Universal shaft ran to a pulley on the back connected to the PTO. Because of clearance wasn't much of a lift height but was nice mowing machine.


More:
For those without live PTO, 3 point rotary cutters, they do make a one way clutch for the input shaft. Not a bad idea if you zig / zag around in heavy tree area brush.