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Etching glass experts? --- acid cream / blasting
Any experts or experienced glass etchers here? Looking to etch the glass to get the smoked look.
3 pieces of about 72" X 20" tempered glass 3/8 thick. Etch entire face on one side. Does going the etching cream way even make sense? Most cream kits are for crafts and smaller windows. What about using media to blast the glass to create the frost/smoked look? This is for a corner shower enclosure. There are shower enclosure kits out there for ~ $800. But the glass is clear --- which in no time will be caked w hard water stains if it is not cleaned after each use. I want to etch the glass surface (outside face) so that there is a 'privacy' and does not show the hard water stains as much. And may be do a bit of artwork on the door piece --- just a simple 12X12 album (vinyl) artwork. I've priced this out at a local glaser shop --- no artwork. They wanted almost $4000 for the same stuff --- the only difference is the etching/smoking/frosting. Very hard to justify the additional cost. Do blasting shops do these types of work? Thanks!
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Puny Bird
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Port Hope (near Toronto) On, Canada
Posts: 4,566
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My brother blasted roses into the rear window tempered glass of my '67 bug. I don't have them anymore as it was a bit 80's-ish and I changed to pop-outs, but it was a nice job.
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'74 Porsche 914, 3.0/6 '72 Porsche 914, 1.7, wife's summer DD '67 Bug, 2600cc T4,'67 Bus, 2.0 T1 Not putting miles on your car is like not having sex with your girlfriend, so she'll be more desirable to her next boyfriend. |
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Call my buddy Rick at Sin City Glass. He'll tell you all the best options, he's been doing it a loooooonng time. tell him Craig sent you. (702)454-5253.
Sin City Glass Art
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,085
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We used to get etched glass signs for our sales centers/model homes.
Then one day we realized the sign shop could do the same with frosted vinyl for much less. Is that a possibility? |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,385
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First post here guys ,so go easy on me,I've been lurking on here for years.Good
friend of dantilla. I'm a architectural glass artist and have been doing this type of work for the last 40 years. The etching cream is worthless and will result in a big mess.About the only thing it is good for is doing a coffee cup. You need to have it sandblasted by a stained glass/sandblasting studio,not someone who does boat trailers.The abrasive should be 100 grit or finer. It takes someone with experience to blast a large surface evenly.You do not want a spotty or uneven finish.Once it's blasted it needs to be hosed off with soap and water to remove micro dust and avoid scratches. Do not get any silicone or caulk on the blasted surface on installation if those products are being used. Etch matte is the commercial version. it is a chemical/acid etch that is done on large sheets and is used for showers.It is a very fine etch,mars very easily long term. I have blasted alot of solid surface areas,I usually recommend on showers some artwork to break up the field. It just looks better,a simple geometric pattern or involved artwork depending on what the client is after. Either way use a squee'gee with a spray on the inside after each shower to avoid the water spotting. The commercial glass companies up here use etch matte alot,should not be $$$$$. I am not a big fan of it though. I am featured on the website Houzz.To see some great examples of my work, go to Design Tech Artglass - Gig Harbor, WA, US 98335-5999 that site also links to my other website Design Tech Artglass - Gig Harbor, WA - Artists & Artisans I have received so much help and enjoyment from this site over the years I'm glad to finally contribute !! Find attached one of my artglass shower projects. If I was doing the blasting up here,straight blast no artwork,you could figure about $100 to 120. per panel ![]() |
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Unregistered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: a wretched hive of scum and villainy
Posts: 55,652
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Two common ways to do it:
1) mechanical i.e. sand blast or diamond grinder. Tough to get it even and to keep from weakening the glass. Borders can wash out as masking gets eaten away. 2) chemical etching. Usually involves diluted hydrofluoric acid, (aka HF or alien acid). Very effective but potentially very dangerous stuff. It does not lose it strength when diluted, it just takes longer to kill flesh. keep it off hands and out of eyes. Last edited by sammyg2; 08-18-2015 at 05:55 AM.. |
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Unregistered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: a wretched hive of scum and villainy
Posts: 55,652
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http://www.microchemicals.com/technical_information/hf_etching.pdf
Etching of SiO2, Quartz, and Glasses with HF Hydrofluoric acid is the only etchant which attacks amorphous SiO2, quartz, or glasses at significant high etch rate. However, HF is not only a strong corrosive, but also highly toxic towards higher concentrations: Local effects include tissue destruction and necrosis, deaths have been reported from concentrated acid burns to as little as 2.5 % body surface area. Besides personal protective equipment, it’s recommended not to handle higher concentrations of HF than required, and use ready-diluted mixtures instead of making own dilutions. We supply HF in a concentration of 1, 10, and 50% as well as buffered HF (BOE 7 : 1) in semiconductor-quality (VLSI). |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,385
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First post guys,so go easy on me. Been lurking on here for years and
am a good friend of dantilla. I'm a glass artist who has been doing this type of work professionally for the past 40 years. The glass etching creams etc. are worthless for this application.You would end up with a mess. They might work for a small item like a coffee cup but that's about it. To do it correctly the glass needs to be sandblasted with a 100 grit abrasive or finer by someone who does this professionally. A stained glass/ sandblasting studio not someone who blasts boat trailers. It takes someone with experience to get a very even surface blast that is not spotty. I do it all the time. The glass then needs to be hosed down with soap and water to remove micro abrasive dust to avoid scratching.It will have a porous surface so can fingerprint easy.Handle with clean hands. Do not ever get silicone or any other types of caulk on the blasted surface. The commercial equivalent of sandblasting is called etch matte. It is a chemically etched process done by a commercial factory.It is a lighter look than blasting and tends to mar easily. I'm not a big fan of it. I prefer to do some design work on the glass a geometric grid,border or full blown artwork. It breaks up the field and looks better. Nobody who does this professionally would use an acid ,grinder etc. To see great examples of my sandblasted,carved and other architectural artglass go to one of my 2 websites.Its the real deal ! I am featured on the site Houzz Design Tech Artglass - Gig Harbor, WA, US 98335-5999 that site also links to my other website Design Tech Artglass - Gig Harbor, WA - Artists & Artisans. Up here to do a surface blast,no artwork you would be looking at around $100 to 120.00 per panel. After all the enjoyment and advice I've gotton off of this forum ,glad to be able to finally contribute . |
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Non Compos Mentis
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Off the grid- Almost
Posts: 10,591
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Just saw this, thought I'd tell you about my good friend Doug at Design Tech, who is an expert on this, and drives a nice 911SC.
Doug beat me to it! Welcome! Sometimes, if he wants an extra hand installing something big, he gives me a call, and I'm always willing to help, as I get to see more of his artwork. Always stunning to see the final product. Just can't quite be captured in pictures. |
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Thanks for all the great info serene911. Vey helpful. Your first post was impactful.
I did eventually find the shower enclosure "kit" that comes with the glass that is frosted/smoked. Whether by chemical etch or media blast, I am not able to determine. Have not bought it yet, but planning to do so very soon. Seems like the frosted glass option is 'on its way out' as the newer products only have clear glass. Your estimate of $100-120 per panel seems very reasonable for the work done. It's amazing my local glaser quoted me almost $4K for the enclosure --- something that I can buy via HomeDepot or via web bathroom suppliers for $800 or $900. The local glaser isn't providing anything special --- just the frosting that I was not able to find before, but have found it now. I figure the 'value add' of the local glaser is they come to measure your bathroom and fab the pieces of glass exactly to the size needed. Whereas, with the kit you buy from HD or web, you use the kit measurements and remod the bathroom to fit it --- which we will do anyways. But, $4K???? Wow, they take me as a fool I guess. Your glass artwork is amazing. Thanks for sharing. May be one day, if I had the house that could justify such elaborate work of art. I had thought about having a custom piece built --- for the door with etched art, like the CP1919 below. But, guess I'll have to do without Pulsar: how to communicate with extraterrestrials Quote:
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BTW serene911 --- with the 'etched' side of the glass on the outside of the shower it stays dry, but still I figure it will get dirty and spotted fairly easily.
What is the type of sealant that should be used to protect the etched surface? Thanks!
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The factory acid/chemical etch is very fine as you will see. You really can't
use any kind of a sealant on the surface.If you tried to, you will find that it will turn the etched surface more clear and more than likely impact the overall appearance in a negative way. The best way to keep it clean is to use Sprayway glass cleaner,comes in a can and is a foamy alcohol based glass cleaner. Spray it very liberally on the surface and wipe down softly with a terry cloth or small bath towel. It is a rather delicate surface and you will find it will pick up fingerprints etc. rather easily. A sandblasted surface is more substantial and a sealer can be used on it,which does help protect the surface. On the inside of the shower you can use a product like Rain X to minimize water spotting then use a squeegee. Do not get any Rain X on the etched surface !! The benefit of custom sandblasting is that we can leave a clear border around the perimeter or do a design that breaks up the large field with clear design lines that visually looks better. $ 4000.00 does seem high.If a client is going 1/2 inch tempered glass, frameless with the nice polished stainless hinges and door handles it does add up though. Good luck and hope this info helps. |
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If they have a shower enclosure glass that is textured on the outside that
might be something to consider as well. That would hide the waterspots without the downsides of the etched surface. The trick there is finding something that looks nice instead of looking like cheap textured bathroom glass. There are good options out there but the selection at the big box stores is going to be more limited. |
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