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Baz Baz is online now
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Question My Silverado wouldn't start this morning....

  • 2002
  • 4.8
  • full tank of fuel
  • fuel filter changed just a couple months ago
  • has been running perfect with no issues previous to this morning

Engine turned over but did not fire.

I sprayed some starter fluid into the throttle body and then it did start.

I let it idle a bit and then went on my merry way with no further issues all day.

I called my mechanic and he had no opinion.

Any thoughts - other than making sure I keep my AAA card & cell phone with me?

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Old 08-19-2015, 04:51 PM
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How many miles?

Fuel pump will often give a few no starts/hard starting, before giving up for good.
Old 08-19-2015, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinbit View Post
How many miles?

Fuel pump will often give a few no starts/hard starting, before giving up for good.
Tinbit - thanks for your post.

I've changed out 2 fuel pumps so far. The last one was 2 years ago. I have a brand new in the box AC/Delco sitting on my shelf right now (just in case).

This symptom (so far) doesn't seem like what I experienced before with previous fuel pump issues. Time will tell I guess.
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:12 PM
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Next time it does not start, cycle the key a few times then immediately go and check for fuel pressure in the rail. Remove the little plastic cap right on the fuel rail, press on the schrader, and you should get a nice little squirt .
Did you ever replace your bed, or bedside yet ?
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:26 PM
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Any OBD codes or check engine light?
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:37 PM
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These guys are saying check valve in the FP.
It's worth putting a gauge on it before getting too far into downtime and the task.
Could the system pressure be leaking out (or in) somewhere?

SilveradoSierra.com • Fuel Pump problem - extended cranking required : Vortec 5300 5.3L V8 - Page 2
"Before replacing the fuel pump check your fuel pressure and see where the pressure is at it should be somewhere around 40 - 50PSI if i am not mistaken. Also check to see if the pressure bleeds off fast. If you leave the pressure gauge connected for a while the pressure should not move very much a few psi over 30min to an hour is normal."
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Last edited by john70t; 08-19-2015 at 05:45 PM..
Old 08-19-2015, 05:39 PM
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Dunno if this is worth a try, but you could try the old trick of turning the key to the last stop before "start" and wait 5-10 seconds before turning it the rest of the way.

Some car we had in the past went through a period where doing that would pressurize through to the F.I., then would start right up.

Usually I could hear the pump running, as it was located behind the rear seat. I think it might have been the '75 Audi Fox.
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfredracing View Post
Next time it does not start, cycle the key a few times then immediately go and check for fuel pressure in the rail. Remove the little plastic cap right on the fuel rail, press on the schrader, and you should get a nice little squirt .
Did you ever replace your bed, or bedside yet ?
Hi Fred - thanks for your post. Did not replace bed and probably won't. Good idea to check pressure at schrader valve if it happens again.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nostril Cheese View Post
Any OBD codes or check engine light?
Hello NC - thanks for your post. Nein......no check engine lights or codes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by john70t View Post
These guys are saying check valve in the FP.
It's worth putting a gauge on it before getting too far into downtime and the task.
Could the system pressure be leaking out (or in) somewhere?

SilveradoSierra.com • Fuel Pump problem - extended cranking required : Vortec 5300 5.3L V8 - Page 2
"Before replacing the fuel pump check your fuel pressure and see where the pressure is at it should be somewhere around 40 - 50PSI if i am not mistaken. Also check to see if the pressure bleeds off fast. If you leave the pressure gauge connected for a while the pressure should not move very much a few psi over 30min to an hour is normal."
Similar to Fred's post above - thanks John....worth keeping in mind should it happen again.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Heel n Toe View Post
Dunno if this is worth a try, but you could try the old trick of turning the key to the last stop before "start" and wait 5-10 seconds before turning it the rest of the way.

Some car we had in the past went through a period where doing that would pressurize through to the F.I., then would start right up.

Usually I could hear the pump running, as it was located behind the rear seat. I think it might have been the '75 Audi Fox.
Hi John and thanks for your post - will keep in mind should this happen again. I have done this in the past when the previous FP's were going south.

Yesterday the truck ran flawless. Going out shortly to start another day - we'll see what happens after it sat all night. I predict everything will be fine. Thanks again for your thoughts and suggestions....
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Old 08-20-2015, 03:43 AM
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Check all your grounds. My Ford did the same thing. Cranks but no start. Starting fluid into air intake and it would fire right up. I had a bad ground at the battery.
Old 08-20-2015, 04:08 AM
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I didn't read the whole tread but know that line of trucks (GMC/Chevy) suffer from a poor connector at the fuel pump causing no starts. Have to pull the tank to get to it and since the pump kit comes with a new connector it makes sense to just replace the whole thing. Been there done that.
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Old 08-20-2015, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugsinrugs View Post
Check all your grounds. My Ford did the same thing. Cranks but no start. Starting fluid into air intake and it would fire right up. I had a bad ground at the battery.
I will check the battery ground - thanks, Bugs.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 968rz View Post
I didn't read the whole tread but know that line of trucks (GMC/Chevy) suffer from a poor connector at the fuel pump causing no starts. Have to pull the tank to get to it and since the pump kit comes with a new connector it makes sense to just replace the whole thing. Been there done that.
Hi Rick....I did update the connector with the new improved style 2 fuel pump changes ago so don't think that's it but thanks for your suggestion anyway. If I have to change out the fuel pump again - I'll be sure to double check the connectors.


FYI, she fired right up this morning perfectly and has ran great so I dunno what happened yesterday. Will see what happens and keep you posted. If it is the fuel pump (again) I hope it holds out until it cools off some - I don't mind doing that repair but it's so hot out right now I'm in survival mode.

Cheers everyone!
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Old 08-20-2015, 07:55 AM
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Don't rule out the relay or loose crank sensor.
Random electronics happen.

Had a 89 golf which wouldn't start again after running all day and sometimes in traffic. Relay was blazing hot.

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Old 08-20-2015, 08:18 AM
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