Skill saw, big foot?

[look 171]

I know there are a couple of you here. Has anyone used the Big Foot Skill saw attachment or the larger 10 1/4" saw for big timbers? I have been thinking about buying one for the past few years, but I was too cheap and really have no need for it. Flipping the stick and finishing with a Sawsall have done the trick so far. I will be building a hillside deck with big Redwood timber during this rainy season and don't want to my men flipping timbers breaking their backs. The cuts must be clean on this thing. Many of the big beams are purposely exposed with edges finished with a router.

[gduke2010]

If you cutting big timbers you'll want a Big Foot. You might want to look at the Miketa beam saw, too. The beam saw is more expensive , uses a 12" blade and makes deeper cuts than the Big Foot.

[look 171]

I looked at the Makita some time ago when I looked at the drawings. The biggest beam will be 8x10s. Many of the beams that will need to be cleanly cut are 4x10s. The reason I didn't buy it was because the saw blade was on the other side like a sidewinder. This was the big 14" saw. The damn thing scares me.

[flyenby]

I had a Makita...it is a big scary saw

[gduke2010]

Then you'll like the Big Foot. I only use the beam saw for lumber thicker than the Big Foot can cut. Also, the BF is much lighter and about as easy to handle as a skill saw.

[intakexhaust]

I'm comfortable with the worm drives types but I'd take a pass on that large Makita circular. Had a few op's to buy really cheap at auction so I'm guessing its not a really popular tool on the secondary market. I still like the accuracy of rotating the beam and using a worm drive.

Have you looked at the Prazi adapter? I would assume the chain is another maintenance and the wide kerf could be bothersome.

[look 171]

I really need something to cut the ends flush in one pass since it will all be finished and routed. These are 4x10 floor joists that protrude beyond the deck on two sides(35 of these damn things). The Prazi would cut too rough since its a chain saw and I will have to sand until tomorrow to get them smooth. I drove out to look at the Makita today. Its a huge saw. I can only feel the thing kicking back with all that torque. you know the blade will get pinch cutting something that big. I don't want to put my men through that scary thing.

Just bought a portable planer for this job. I have to make sure the surface is clean and dimension correct. This one is gonna to be a PITA, I mean, fun.

It will be even more fun since this is going to be a wet winter. Start in Nov and finish before Feb. Plenty of time to slack off and enjoy the rain.

[herr_oberst]

Can you just pay a mill to make the finish cut you need? Have that done first, trailer them to the site. Leave the beams a few inches long, you make the final cut with your hypoid/sawzall method on the end where it bolts to the main structure.

[dad911]

Rough cut a few inches long with a chain saw, then finish with a portable band saw.

Or use a sawzall with a long, fine metal blade. With practice, and a sharp blade, you can get a very nice cut.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by dad911

Rough cut a few inches long with a chain saw, then finish with a portable band saw.

Or use a sawzall with a long, fine metal blade. With practice, and a sharp blade, you can get a very nice cut.

I have never tried the band saw method. I thoughts are that it will never be square.

[dad911]

Originally Posted by look 171

I have never tried the band saw method. I thoughts are that it will never be square.

Stationary bandsaws have a narrow blade for cutting curves. Portaband has a 1/2" blade, should track pretty straight, especially with a sharp blade.

I'd also try a chain saw and clean it up with a belt sander.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

Can you just pay a mill to make the finish cut you need? Have that done first, trailer them to the site. Leave the beams a few inches long, you make the final cut with your hypoid/sawzall method on the end where it bolts to the main structure.

That's exactly what I am going to do. I am hoping they can route out the 3/4" round over for me as well. I really wanted a new saw just to have around to cut larger lumber.

I work for this designer before. She's a little over the top with details like sanding rough exterior lumber like if they are going into a living room (only an idiot like me can put up with her crap). A year later, with a little rain and sunshine, she will complain about it and call us to refinish it and make her client pay for it. I have been down this road with her three times in the past 5 years building these outdoor kitchens and decks. Crazy folks keep calling her.

[Charles Freeborn]

I've got the Milwaukee 10.25". Yeah, it's a lot of blade, but if you're comfortable with tools it's no big.
Bigger cutting capacity is the Prazi Beam Cutter attachment on a worm drive skill saw, but the cut isn't too pretty, as it's a chainsaw.
-C

[look 171]

Originally Posted by dad911

Stationary bandsaws have a narrow blade for cutting curves. Portaband has a 1/2" blade, should track pretty straight, especially with a sharp blade.

I'd also try a chain saw and clean it up with a belt sander.

Belt sander end grain is slower then watching paint dry(30 plus pieces). I have a Milwaukee portable band saw. I should give that a try. What do you know, I learn something new daily here. Thanks for the tip.