Originally Posted by Hugh R (Post 8807850)

If he pulled the backing, the machining is looking like junk to me. The machining in the last picture of the clasp looks like it was hammered out with a ball-pen hammer in China. No finished edges on the rivets. It should look like this.

Picture isn't really good, but the pin in the center of the pic is a pin that is rounded over, you're picture doesn't show it. It shows a push pin. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1443069787.jpg

I say junk.

Originally Posted by Hugh R (Post 8807852)

Buy it through escrow going through a Rolex dealer. To verify, might cost you $100. If he won't do that, fold.

Originally Posted by HHI944 (Post 8807882)

I know a lot of guys that treat their Subs like legos in regards to the faces and bezel inserts.

That price would make me nervous. If everything were legit, even with a replacement insert, she shouldn't have a problem getting more than that from the right gold/pawn.

Originally Posted by LeeH (Post 8807861)

She took it to a Rolex dealer today and they confirmed the movement and face are original.

Originally Posted by LeeH (Post 8807861)

The band is definitely suspect. Doesn't have the quality feel.... but I had a guy tell me on a watch forum that he had a 100% genuine Sub from the 80s and it didn't have the quality feel that you'd expect.

Originally Posted by widgeon13 (Post 8807996)

Here's a Rolex Daytona on Craigs List for $600. This is at least a 10 grand watch. If it's real!!

https://albany.craigslist.org/jwl/5233746121.html

Originally Posted by Eric Coffey (Post 8808021)

If she (or the dealer) is claiming that the dial and bezel insert are original, they are wrong. They look to be genuine at first glance, but certainly not original to that case. If in fact the case is marked 16610, it is a stainless Submariner Date. The blue dial and bezel insert were only available on the two-tone and all gold models, and those pictured are from an older all-gold model (16808).

The fakes are getting ridiculously good these days though. Here are a few things you can do/check to help confirm if it's real or not:

* Unscrew the winding crown (counter-clockwise), and pull out to the last position to set the time. Along with a "hacking" second hand, the hour/minute hands should advance time forward when the crown is turned clockwise (most of the ETA/knock-off movements made to look like Rolex movements will only advance time forward when turned counter-clockwise)

Second hand does hack. Clockwise=advance.

* Remove the bracelet and look at the engravings between the lugs. Specifically look at the "E" in all of the words. The middle bar in all of them should be shorter than the tops and bottoms (magnification helps here). If not, it's fake.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1443101394.jpg

* Gently shake the watch next to your ear. If you can hear and feel the rotor spinning, it's fake.

Cannot hear or feel the rotor moving... at all.

* If the bezel turns both ways, it's fake.
Bezel is missing the spacer/spring. Don't know why. This would require parts to fix, but everything looks "normal" when the bezel is off.

* The “T - <25” at the bottom of the dial indicates it’s an older tritium-lumed dial. It should not glow any longer (or be “charged” by light). If so, the dial is most likely fake (it could have been re-lumed at some point, but it’s not very likely).

No glow at all.

Originally Posted by mgatepi (Post 8808082)

I have a GMT Master I bought new from a local dealer in 1986. My bezel moves in both directions, my bracelet looks pretty much like this one. Also, when I hold it up to my ear and shake it, I can hear the rotor. I have had mine serviced 2 times by Rolex, so I know mine is real. Not so sure you can use the requirements listed above for the older Rolex's.

Originally Posted by Rinty (Post 8807950)

If you decide to buy it, you can send it in to Rolex for a service, and it'll come back looking like new. While it's in there, you can get their advice on what to do about the bracelet.