Volvo 850 Wagon Hard Starting

[CJFusco]

Hey there, Pelican Braintrust:

I tried searching various Volvo sites for this and had some limited success, and was initially going to post this in the PP Volvo forum, but that's a ghost town. Besides, all the best car minds hang out here, right?

I have a 1997 Volvo 850 Wagon with 256,000 miles. As with many 240/740/960/850 Volvo wagons, it is a solid car in every meaning of the word. It has developed a difficult starting issue, though: when it has been sitting awhile, it cranks a lot before it starts, BUT IT DOES START EVERY TIME. If you try starting right after turning the car off, it starts right up. There is a slight gas smell occasionally, but not pervasive, and nothing I've been able to track down. The car idles and drives fine.

In the past 6 months, I've changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, as well as the usual tune-up stuff. I've also replaced the exhaust manifold and the brake pads and rotors, but doubt either of those have anything to do with this.

Some things I am looking into: 1) fuel leak near/at the rail/injectors, 2) bad injectors, 3) bad fuel pump, 4) bad ignition coil. Is there anything else you can think of that I should check? Is there any way to eliminate possibilities without just throwing part$ at the problem? I'd like to get the car running as well as possible before the snow starts to fly (once I get my Cayman S back, at least I'll be able to pull the Volvo off the road for a few days).

Thanks in advance.

[nota]

did you pull codes ?

the temp sensor or the fuel pressure reg on the rail [ as you smell gas]
are common problems

but pull the codes

[asphaltgambler]

The most likely problem would be a failed check valve in the fuel pump. The built in check valve will hold system pressure when the vehicle is shut down. If there is no fuel pressure present while starting, there will be air pockets and low pressure initially resulting in prolonged cranking until there is enough pressure to get it going.

The best way to determine this is to use a pressure gauge, start it and leave it connected when shutting down. Wait an hour or so and the pressure should be close or equal to the running pressure. Any drop off indicates a loss in the system. Usually it's the pump or possibly leaky injector or return pressure regulator.

The last two, if failing, will usually show themselves during engine operation with poor performance, raw fuel smell and rough running. If these two problems are not present then you could try a OE brand fuel pump if you don't have access to a fuel pressure gauge.

[ganun]

Check the parts books to see if this model has a cold start injector AKA cold start valve, which is activated by the thermotime switch ( bimetallic switch closed when cold that opens after several seconds from a small heating element) usually at or near the coolant thermostat.

[1990C4S]

Check your fuel pressure with a proper pressure gauge. Fuel pump failures are common.

[CJFusco]

Thank you for the quick and informative replies.

I do not have a code reader, so I'm not sure which codes would come up. Obviously, there is a CEL.

I will get my hands on a pressure gauge and see if I can track down a code reader.

[1990C4S]

Get the code reader first....post the code here.

That car should run forever.

You can do a quick check to see if there is pressure on Schrader valve after the car sits for a day.

[Neilk]

Do you have an Autozone near you? They can check generic codes, I am not sure if fuel pressure codes would appear on their code reader though.

[charlesbahn]

My first guess would be the fuel pump relay- easy to replace, behind the radio I think- a very common problem for intermittent starting/stalling problems.

My second guess would be the crank sensor also a relatively easy fix.

Charles

[Willem Fick]

Been there! Either a problem with fuel pressure or (more likely) worn injectors causing a dripping effect as opposed to properly atomising the fuel.