Woodworkers: Which wood for use outdoors?

[biosurfer1]

I am working on sprucing (see what I did there) up my backyard and I recently tiled these large bases that hold up my patio cover.

One of the items on the list is to replace the wood panels at the top (circled) and add a platform for the wife's planter boxes in the cutouts.

I'm just getting into woodworking and have a good idea of how to go about the project, but I have no clue about which wood to use. Obviously the wood will be outdoors always and will get wet/etc. It is not structural in any way. I'm looking for a darker wood, but I assume I'll need to stain and protect the wood so maybe its better to select the color then?

What kind of wood should I use? I'd like a more sturdy wood but doesn't need to be an exotic or rare expensive wood. Also, knowing it will go outside, how should I go about protecting it?

[scottmandue]

I suppose the "rare and expensive" rules out teak?
I am planning on building an outdoor enclosure for our cats, my construction worker neighbor recommended pressure treated lumber but I don't think that would be astatically pleasing in your case?

Would you consider stone? A lot of countertop places sell granite mistake and/or end cuts for cheap, I don't think a piece that small would cost much.

[javadog]

Redwood is a good wood for exterior use but I wouldn't call it sturdy...


JR

[Craig T]

Teak is the best, and although almost impervious to weather and water, it needs to be sealed to keep looking nice. Thompson's works just fine for teak.

Redwood would be my second choice, as it's resistent to termites and weather…although as previously stated, redwood is soft, not much harder than pine. It will not hold up to chopping and will ding if you drop heavy pans on it.

[biosurfer1]

Originally Posted by scottmandue

I suppose the "rare and expensive" rules out teak?
I am planning on building an outdoor enclosure for our cats, my construction worker neighbor recommended pressure treated lumber but I don't think that would be astatically pleasing in your case?

Would you consider stone? A lot of countertop places sell granite mistake cuts for cheap.

If I use granite, I won't have a reason to buy a bunch of cool woodworking tools! Plus I think a natural wood look would go great with the rest of the backyard.

What does pressure treating the wood do to make it unappealing to the eye?

[biosurfer1]

What causes these tiny slits in wood?

[biosurfer1]

Originally Posted by Craig T

Teak is the best, and although almost impervious to weather and water, it needs to be sealed to keep looking nice. Thompson's works just fine for teak.

Redwood would be my second choice, as it's resistent to termites and weather…although as previously stated, redwood is soft, not much harder than pine. It will not hold up to chopping and will ding if you drop heavy pans on it.

Thanks Craig... I very rarely put anything up, in fact that picture is the most crap I've stored there, and mostly just because I knew I was replacing the panel.

It will have some pots and flower boxes but shouldn't much, if any, abuse over the years.

[dad911]

For wood use Teak, or I would consider a PVC board like Azek or manufactured deck/trim boards.

But I would use Sandstone or limestone slabs. Not sure what it costs in CA, but around here it would be only a couple hundred bucks, and would match the tile nicely.

[look 171]

Stone would be my first choice but if you think wood looks best, try Ipe. Its not Teak, but we use lots of it on our decks and its durable and pretty. Cost is a little more then Redwood but nothing like Teak. Finish with Penofin oil. Several coats just do not allow it to pool up. let soak, wipe dry. Apply again tomorrow.

[J P Stein]

+1 for Teak.
Ironbark is better but a Big time PITA to work and hard to find. I started out building boats when they were made of wood.....many moons ago.

[oldE]

Originally Posted by biosurfer1

What causes these tiny slits in wood?

I'm guessing you are referring to the fissures in the pressure treated 4x4 which allows the treating fluid to penetrate the surface of the wood. Probably a couple of sets of rollers with steel ridges just before the wood is treated.

Best
Les

[biosurfer1]

Thanks, figured it had something to do with the pressure treating process

[VincentVega]

My first choice for affordable would be cedar, I wonder if thats a regional selection.

[TimT]

Another option is Ipe, costs less than teak, is fairly easy to work has a nice tight straight grain, and weathers and looks nice..

I did the decks at my house in Vermont using Ipe, the substructure is pressure treated, and used hidden fasteners on the decking so no screw heads showing....

[MikeSid]

I'll cast a third vote for Ipe, if for no other reason than it's the Monty Python witch of all hardwoods.

[sc_rufctr]

Another vote for Teak.

It was used on the decks of battleships.

[nzporsche944s2]

I would use kwila or merbau. Very hardy (and hard). Common down here for outdoor furniture, decking, and pergolas

[look 171]

Merbau has gain some traction here with designers in the past few years due to it price (about $.50 per lin') and its natural lighter color and it doesn't check. I think its a slightly softer, but very durable. For Biosufer, I think he's only looking at a few pieces for that decking.

[daepp]

Cypress is very sturdy and has a natural component that makes it fairly perfect in the rot-resistant category.

[KFC911]

Originally Posted by VincentVega

My first choice for affordable would be cedar, I wonder if thats a regional selection.

^^^^ This...