Not a show piece but a museum exibit!;)

Appliances are a crap shoot these days. I bought a bunch of Kitchen Aide stuff 15 years ago and it has all been pretty good. When you do go to replace your range, a 36" professional style will require between 300-600 cfm of exhaust from a range hood. With the higher cfms, you will have to start thinking about make up air to replace the air exhausted from the hood.

My Fridge is a Jenn Air/Maytag and I have been inside it twice to replace defrost timer printed circuit boards. Once to replace the defrost termination stat and heaters. Now the ice will not come out as a power outage last year browned one of the control boards.
Still works though...

I think the Craigslist idea would be the best way to go until you are ready to rip and tear into that kitchen reno.

Same here, I just installed a bluestar 36. It's only been a few weeks but I really like it. A ton of $$ to me, not to mention the hood but its exactly what I wanted. Worth the $$ if you can make it work.

Do you feel like it is trash now, at least to you?
Do you own tools?

Why not DIY.
Bypass all that stuff. An oven is just a box that gets hot, with a thermostat to determine how hot. It's not rocket surgery.

I'm in the same boat, my JennAir cooktop and range are both slowly self destructing by falling apart, problem is all kitchen appliances are total junk now.
Even the expensive units, anything with a computer, it's all garbage.

With the VW diesel emissions scam it's not a far leap to believe that the computers in appliances have a timed kill code buried into the programing.

we like our new unit. lots.
It is a Dacor, made in America.

I have tools, am handy. Don't want to spend any more money or effort on this crap range.

Went to a couple appliance stores. Planning to buy an "American Range" 36" six burner range on Monday. The problem is getting it delivered and installed before Thanksgiving.

If you do decide to install that 36" American Range, keep an eye on the left (assuming you are going left) upper cabinet. It is too close (too low) to the burner. Also, intense heat has been known to melt the bottoms of those microwave combo hoods.

Might is the operative word....

When the control board on our then 13 YO double oven went out a couple of years ago the repairman told us the board was NLA and our options were to buy a new oven or pull the board and have it repaired (would take about 2 weeks and would get a 90 day warranty). Repairman said these days when any appliance with a control board gets past the 10 year point, good luck finding a new one if yours goes out.

Not really believing him I spend a good bit of time trying to find one on the internet and no dice... truly was NLA. Not being in the mood to buy a new oven and wife really liked this one we had the board repaired and so far so good.

Especially if you want to level your house and kill your family... Probably your neighbors also...



.

"NLA." errr. do not like those letters.

I was looking for sparkplug and flame sensor to tune up the 25yo Lennox Pulse Air furnace.
The poor thing was groaning and spitting when trying to fire up, then it would blow like a wind tunnel.
Parts? You guessed it...
A two-stage Trane took its place, it's whisper quiet and hardly noticed.

Originally Posted by LEAKYSEALS951 View Post
3. If you are converting to gas- (for the holidays)- you can get a propane tank for your gas grill and run it to your gas oven. I think they are both 4 psi or something- all you need is a gas line and pressure regulator (pm me if you need one)- I used for about a year before I tapped into my outdoor propane tank. You can hide the grill propane tank in a floor cabinent next to the oven.
]
fwiw: you cannot mix lpg and natural gas. the orfice requirements are different, for starters. i believe lpg has higher psi past the regulator, as well.
the "bbq tank in the cupboard" thing is done all over Europe, from what i could tell. you purchase the cylinders from the local gas stations.

Yeah- my stove came with LPG and natural gas venturis. I set mine up with the LPG. I was really nervous about the tank under the kitchen cabinent-I actually set mine up under a cabinent far away from the stove, but we used it over a year before I had our oudoor tank line installed to the kitchen. I originally planned to use it for a week or two.

When the propane people installed the new lines running to the kitchen (amerigas I think) - they did something real nice, which I did not expect. Once they had the pressure set, they fine tuned the burners to work with the house's specific gas pressure, so the burners could be set to the slowest of simmers. It was like fine tuning a carbeurator, and from a company such as amerigas- I was not expecting that at all. My wife was in heaven!

Will remove left side base cab and, if possible, reposition left side upper cab to higher. It will look very ghetto. But should get me through the holidays. Then we'll get a proper vent hood and start the remodel.

There is a slight chance I won't find an installer in time. Thinking about if, worst case, I end up hooking up the gas line to the new range myself. Would buy a gas leak detector, new flex hose. Thoughts?

Oh yeah- if you have the ability to really vent outside- there are some vent hoods that have thermostats which will automatically turn the fan on if there is fire to vent heat/fumes whatever outside That's pretty neat!
Also- there is a minimum height between the burners and a vent- it should be listed on either the stove or the vent itself.

At least we know you are up to the oven's capabilities. Good luck!

We went with the restored O'Keefe & Merrit ours is only a 32" but love it, it was pricey but not crazy expensive.

The oven in my house is 74 years old....

I have a Chambers model 12B bought on May 29,1941... to be delivered on June 2, 1941.

I have remodeled the kitchen twice around this stove....The fridge in my kitchen is a new Fisher-Paykal... but every time I think about replacing the stove.... nothing in the stores move me....

Of course there is the history, and that my grandfather was thrifty, yet paid $184.50 for this stove in 1941..

Mine is not a museum restored WWll era stove.. I use it every day...



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Really cool vintage range there!

There need to have about 30" for the hood, so I assume it should work for the cabinet too. But, don't quote me on this as I have never done this before, having combustible material like a cabinet above a big stove. You wouldn't need an installer. Just get a new flex and make sure the outlet is big enough for the new stove. That's an easy fix with a reducer. Find our that that American Range requires and change the shut off valve accordingly. A gas detector leak test kit is only a few bucks. Basically soapy water. When we are desperate, we take a plumber's torch, light it and point at the connection and see if it creates little sparks. There's not enough gas or pressure, to cause a fire. Do the liquid soap test. Crank the flared joints down and you should good to go.

Forget the installer, you will need help getting that damn thing in the house, sliding it in the slot without doing damage. That's damage to you, not the cabinet. Don't hurt your back. BTW, you aren't getting that stove flush to the wall. They all have a small cavity back there for the gas shut off to fit right in that hole so the stove will slide right in to the back. When you do your remodel, make sure your contractor read the installation page or measure the back of that range. Having a gap there will ruin your day.

Thanks!. I'm going to order the range Monday when the place opens.

I read the range specs for distance to surfaces and overhead etc. 30" to directly overhead, 18" to adjacent overhead.

Yeah, I figure the stove won't be flush to the wall at first. That's okay. I'm just trying to get a half assed but working kitchen together so I can feed the holiday hordes. I can worry about pretty later.

Do you know, the 21" shelf/riser option is $830!!! Screw that. For $800 I can put subway tiles and polished copper sheet on the wall, and install steel shelves above.