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Student of the obvious
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7,714
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Plumbing/AC/Code/Sewer gas smell question
Plumbing/AC/Code/Sewer gas smell question - Bet you weren't expecting that combo, now were you?
A week or so ago our condenser was replaced due to a leak. Since then, we've had a sewer gas smell in the house. One possibility I uncovered while reading on the subject is that our A/C condensate line drain runs down and ties into a sink drain, but on the back side of the trap. In other words, the drain is open to the sewer line. The new condenser was a different configuration than the last one. I'm thinking that the smell is coming from sewer gas being sucked into the system from the drain. Am I correct in thinking that their should be a trap in this line? Also, should the installer have removed the knock out to allow water to drain into the emergency pan? I thought this guy knew what he was doing, but now I'm wondering. ![]()
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Lee |
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Cogito Ergo Sum
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Yes there should be a trap in there. I'll defer to an expert on the other thing...
I'll bring my PVC tools when we do the water heater! Man, it's not your month! |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Capistrano Beach, Ca.
Posts: 7,235
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I would agree that the drain is incorrectly connected and is allowing sewer gas to enter the house. There should be a trap between all exposed sewer lines and open house space.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 748
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You are exactly right in your diagnosis. Should have been T'd into the tail piece of the sink drain.
I'm not one for removing the overflow plug unless it is piped to a obviously seen place. Also a trap should be installed according to the manufacture design, most likely yes. You could get away from one ONLY if the condensate pan is on the positive pressure side of the blower but guessing that isn't the case because of the smell. You could eliminate the smell by adding a trap next to the unit but it would have to stay primed or the smell will return. I also recommend changing the drain tie in. Typical residential hack installer. Good luck. Last edited by DerkPerk; 12-31-2015 at 10:19 AM.. |
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Slippery Slope Victim
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY USA
Posts: 4,385
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Condensate from AC always gets a p-trap.
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Mike² 1985 M491 |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: MD
Posts: 5,733
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Can you run the drain outside or into a utility sink? I had to redo a similar setup, as mentioned the trap needs to be full, not sure its possible unless you run the A/C year round.
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Student of the obvious
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7,714
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So what's the answer? I can install a trap and fill with water, but seems like that little bit is going evaporate in just a couple of weeks. The air handler is in the attic. Could run the drain outside, but it would be sticking out the side of the house up about 10' off the ground.
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Lee |
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Registered
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I would either re-plumb under the sink or run the drain line outside. Either way will correct the problem. My HVAC unit is on the roof and the condensate line runs down into a rain gutter. It just needs to be gravity flow to a place that can handle significant water during your monsoon season.
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Student of the obvious
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7,714
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Hmm... I'm thinking this real issue is under the bathroom sink. The tailpiece is on the wrong side of the trap. This obviously wasn't caused by the a/c guy. If the tailpiece drained into the sink trap, would the connection in the attic still require its own trap?
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Lee |
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Registered User
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Put in a condensate pump and pump the condensate into the sink or outside. No need to cut into any drains. Condensate pump will cost you $50.00.
Still need a trap in the PVC so water does not get sucked back in. Little GIANT 115-Volt Automatic Condensate Removal Pump-554401 - The Home Depot |
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Student of the obvious
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7,714
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I don't understand the need for a pump when the air handler is in the attic.
As far as the lack of trap... As a licensed AC guy, should the tech who installed the coil and hooked up the pvc to the drain pan done something about the lack of trap?
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Lee |
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Registered
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Post a pic of your under-sink plumbing. The re-plumb to correct this should be cheap and easy.
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2009 Cayman PDK With a few tweaks 2021 Cayman GTS 4.0L on the way... |
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Home of the Whopper
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Is your unit draw through or blow through?
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 17,338
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Get a pic of the set up under the sink and show where its plumbed into the drain. It's usually from a flex rubber hose Y into and above the p-trap. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Out here, there is no need for a trap for the drain coming from air handler. Maybe I and everybody fell asleep on the inspection?
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Student of the obvious
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7,714
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Quote:
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Lee |
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Registered User
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The pump will pump the condensate directly outside, hence no need to cut into or have to worry about a drain line in the plumbing. If your plumbing backs up, it will back up into your A/C unit. I have seen this happen.
Also, may townships do not allow condensate to go into public sewers because of the high cost of sewage treatment. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Student of the obvious
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 7,714
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Quote:
I'm also assuming that the condensate drain on the previous coil was on the positive side instead of the negative side. Otherwise, we'd have had this same issue long ago.
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Lee |
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