Building a powder coating oven

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Needing to detail the 928 motor and the 3.2 in an 86 Cab I'm restoring, I thought it would be a good idea to add powder coating to the plating and bright dip work I'm doing. Researched a lot of plans and thought, how hard can it be, just need to cut up a ton of sheet metal and steel studs and rivet it all together with some insulation. Should take a day or two.

16, 4x8 sheets of 20 gauge, 2 sheets of 16 gauge, 450 rivets, pneumatic rivet gun (lifesaver) and 3 days in...

the cutting part is fun




Floor started




















Box section for the heating element




Getting there

[Nickshu]

Sweet! Nice work, can't wait to see it done!

[MBAtarga]

Looks like you're off to a quick start. There are several threads over on Garage Journal of guys that have done the same - some have used old refrigerators or even large filing cabinets.

[unclebilly]

What is your heat source going to be.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

I'm repurposing silk screen dryer elements. They got to 600F+ so they should be fine.

Thanks Nick and Mark, I'll take a look over on Garage Journal.

[BK911]

Dang yo. I was expecting to see an oven for suspension parts or similar, not one for an entire car. Go big or go home!!

[billybek]

You have some interesting projects, Shaun!
Might I suggest checking the local building stores for Roxul rock wool insulation instead of the fiberglass?
It is much more dense and has a higher insulating value. You cut it with a bread knife and it has a great friction fit even on steel studs.
Just checked the availability it seems to be available local to you.
Happy new year, Shaun!

[TimT]

We dipped and powder coated a whole 911 a few years ago..

It came out awesome, and was really nice working on something so clean

:: R U D T N E R S * R A C I N G * G R O U P ::

:: R U D T N E R S * R A C I N G * G R O U P ::

:: R U D T N E R S * R A C I N G * G R O U P ::

[rrental]

Awesome! Second the roxul. Way better stuff. Can't burn, higher insulation value and it doesn't sag overtime. Used it building the house.

Will you build a device to circulate air? From what I have read it will make an oven that size work better.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Thanks Bill on the Roxul suggestion. I am considering it for the walls and ceiling but cheaped out on the floor because of the 16 gauge steel and that it's the floor. I put R19 in there. Roxul for the walls has an R factor of 23. I can get R31 fiberglass batts though. Wouldn't those be better?

Just back from HD picking up lights and an Al sealing strip for the back. One thing I have to get ASAP is high temp caulk. I want to lay a bead on every external seam.

Rental, yes, I'm probably putting two of these in. Was going to go with just one to create convection, and may still, but thought two would keep temps equalized everywhere. Want to put 1 over each heating element then pipe the air down to the front of the walls at the bottom. I'm not sure if one will create a nice cycle and two will fight each other and create two zones or currents or two will just mix the air better.

Thoughts?

Dayton 1TDV4 High Temperature Blower, 115 Volt, 310 CFM: Hvac Controls: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

[billybek]

Originally Posted by Shaun @ Tru6

Thanks Bill on the Roxul suggestion. I am considering it for the walls and ceiling but cheaped out on the floor because of the 16 gauge steel and that it's the floor. I put R19 in there. Roxul for the walls has an R factor of 23. I can get R31 fiberglass batts though. Wouldn't those be better?
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More is always better! (Well usually anyway but true if talking about insulation!)
Who is the manufacturer of R31 batts in fiberglass? Is that 9" or 6" thickness? I would be interested in looking at their product. If you are compressing a thicker batt into your wall space it will reduce the effectiveness of the insulation.
One of the best things about the Roxul product is that it has more mass and stops air movement within the wall structure. One of the reasons it is so effective as a firestop.

[rrental]

Yes The Higher R the better, but as I mentioned I don't use the pink stuff even if I got it for free. (ok..for the floor it makes sense...) I have seen many projects where the stuff sags over the years and leaves huge gaps. Could you double up roxul for the roof to get a higher R value?

I have been reading up on this the last few months and the consensus is that if a guy uses the Roxul the outside gets warm to the touch but won't burn himself.

For the fans, an oven that size I would go for 2 fans. There's a guy who made one and he created ducts on the outside. Pretty cool.

My oven is too small and a project as yours is on my list for next year. Kudos on making it the size you choose. Please keep the pictures coming!

You probably already found it but there's lots of information here:Oven Building Forum - Caswell Inc. Metal Finishing Forums

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Thanks R, I should be in the Roxul stage this weekend. Fans are coming in on Thursday so I hope to have the ceiling completely done this weekend and maybe even the walls done. Probably not as I have a lot of work to do with the heating elements

Haven't seen the Caswell forum but will join. I just ordered some more anodizing stripper today from them.

Got a little more done on the oven finishing up tonight. Added a sealing strip to the back and started on the ceiling. Got some super cheap halogen lights that are also super bright. I didn't do such a great job cutting the holes for the lights with my grinder. Not the best job when you are tired after a long day of work.

But it's coming together little by little.

[stealthn]

Cool thread

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Made only a little progress this weekend but it's mostly downhill from here. Spent a lot of time in planning, have been mostly winging this build but thought I needed to make sure the roof will go on with no drama with the fans and ducting working efficiently.

I was going to put the fans on top of the roof with the hole down through as a chimney and flexible hose running to the corners and down to an air radiator internal to the oven. Decided it was a little on the Brazil side and not very elegant. So I took the fans apart, the airbox will be nestled inside the ceiling with the motors mounted on the roof. This allows me to run the air through the roof to an elbow vent and then down through the wall. I'll use a stack duct with insulation behind it but still need to decide on a vent opening.

[DWBOX2000]

Great work Shaun. Regarding the Roxul, could I use that around a exhaust pipe on a gas fireplace. I just know the pipe is a pipe inside a pipe that was professionally installed. I get drafts of cold air when the fireplace isn't on. The surrounding box was never insulated. Thanks.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

If you are getting drafts, the Fire Block 136 may be your best bet for sealing against them.

Download the MSDS and see if it's appropriate.

http://www.roxul.com/files/RX-NA_EN/pdf/MSDS%20and%20Safety%20Bulletin/Roxul%20Material%20Safety%20Data%20Sheet%2002-13-14.pdf

[Shaun @ Tru6]

A little more progress today. I think I'll need 2 friends to get the roof up without drama. Very happy with measuring and templating. When the roof goes on, it should be mostly downhill from there. I'm probably going to make a completely removable door. The wiring for the heating elements should be fun. Off to see Star Wars. Need a new 3/16 bit anyway.

[rwest]

Dang Shaun, do you ever sleep? Nice job on this project and all the others. Looking forward to seeing the first pieces out of the oven.

[dad911]

Hmmm.... Can't put can lights against std insulation, and those halogens will get alot hotter?!?!?