Wrangler Owner (Service) Experience Needed
 

Afternoon PP Brain Trust - given the wealth of knowledge here I thought it best to ask about this issue.

Wife has a 2004 Wrangler Sport and has a nasty leak of sorts. Spent 20 minutes checking out underneath and it looks like a bad leak between the engine and transmission. It's an automatic, so I'm not sure what else would be effected by this. It also looks like the PS pump seals are shot, too so a replacement may be on the menu.

From what i'm seeing Chrysler used a 2-part RMS. What the duck? :confused: And it looks like this is the most common leak on these cars. Seriously? I haven't had RMS problems on any other cars. I only replaced them when doing clutch jobs and even then there was maybe a bit of residue.

Taking it to an independent, what should I be expecting for parts and time? I ask time because hourly rates are different all over in SoCal/OC. Hoping not more than 48-72 hours (should get it cleaned under there too).

Not uncommon for a 4.0 liter Jeep 6-cylinder engines to have a leaky valve cover, which runs down the back of the engine so it looks like it's the rear main seal.

I'd check that first, since it's such an easy fix.

Check with Jeeps R Us in Laguna Canyon, I have had good experiences with them and will be taking my Cherokee in for some work next month.

Will do Dean. It's the wife's jeep and she has an odd work schedule - so we can't really wait for me to have time on the weekend for this one. Otherwise I'd be ordering the parts and clearing garage space.

This. Run into it a couple times. The 4.0 is a pretty stout engine (I stress tested a few in high school).

I would get an ac delco ps pump. I have gone through many many rebuilds and the QC of a/c delco beats all the other suppliers hands down. You can do the PS pump in a few hours "very simple", if you replace it yourself get a new pulley. Worth the money you save by not having a shop do it.

I have replaced the RMS on a xj with the 4.0 I6. Not that fun. If I remember correctly the top two bell housing bolts are t25, and ueber easy to strip.

Did it to my '92 XJ, same eng.
It was a kit where you drop the pan, pull out old seal and thread the new one through using the hooked cable puller that's in the kit.
As I recall, anyway...my description of the kit may be vague.
Not that big of a deal but I'd not do it again, I'd pay to have it done these days cuz I'm retired and generally disinclined. :)

go to jeepforum or wranglerforum to dig into this.

very knowledgeable people.

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Well, got the full workup on the jeep back today. Quite a list. All-in-all, looking at about $5500 in parts and labor. Ouch. So, we're gonna let it go/trade it in and get a new vehicle. Unfortunately it's one of those things where we just can't afford to be down a car (for her).

Wife wants something that gets good fuel economy (currently 17-18 mpg) and newer. I have access to FORD X-Plan pricing and Mazda employee pricing. So far the Fusion SE Hybrid is winning for its class, not so much on price. Checking some Mazdas out tomorrow.

Here's the list of fixes for the jeep...

• Valve Cover Gasket/Reseal
• Rear Main Seal
• Power Steering Pump + Hoses
• Rear Differential Re-Seal
• New front brake calipers
• Front Brake Rotors
• Brake Fluid change
• New Radiator (has a leak) & coolant flush
• Drive belt, tensioner & idler pulleys
• Water pump, thermostat, hoses
• Sway bar boots
• F&R control arm bushings
• Alignment
• Oil change

Honestly that's about 500$ in parts if you get savy on ********/fleabay/amazon, and a weekend. Those engines are stupid easy to work on.

I just got reamed by a local New Holland dealer on a tractor I bought. They ended up charging 2800 for two front tires, adjust linkage, and rebuild a hydraulic cylinder.

Usually you can do better than the employee pricing models, so do some shopping. TrueCar and Costco are good resources, and even then you can do better. I got a freakishly huge discount on a Mazda because dealers are trying to hit progressive incentive objectives. Some dealers are more "into it" than others, for sure.

If I order the parts and you think you can get it done in one Sunday for a reasonable price , I invite you out. My wife and I would greatly appreciate it. The problem is her work schedule so we can't be down a vehicle and every day she misses work is unpaid (no PTO or sick pay).

Steve, very good point. A couple of my coworkers can pull favors with Ford and Mazda. We were able to get A-Plan pricing for the Fusion, but it was still out of our budget. We weren't about to settle on a C-Max because it felt like a cheap econobox.

For Mazda we'll get S-Plan pricing and so far she is enjoying the experience at Tustin Mazda checking out the CX-3 and CX-5.

As for the Jeep, I think we'll trade it in and let the dealer do the work (at cost) and resell it to the right buyer. With my Cayman needing some work for Smog and the 911SC in the shop we simply can't swing another repair bill. Plus with family planning on the horizon, a fuel-efficient vehicle with child-seat compatible seating makes more sense. Doesn't mean we can't get her another wrangler, just may not be the right car for now.

Why not just swap out the valve cover gasket before you dump it? The rest of the work can wait unless the brakes are unsafe which it sounds like they arent.

How much it is as is?

Eh, Not really. Maybe two people can knock it out in a long day. The RMS is bit labor intensive. However, you're still needing that alignment...
I'm doing 20 credits this semester. If you still have it by the summer. I'll help you out. I need a vacation.:rolleyes:

I would do this on Sunday, and see how bad that RMS leak is once you have everything else sealed up. Most of these items you can replace yourself honestly. They are straight forward, and nothing really hides or jumps out at you. A lot of the off road guys run removable drop links for the sway bars so don't be intimidated by replacing them.
Notes in green.

Valve Cover Gasket very simple, as easy as it looks
Power Steering Pump + Hoses Buy a rebuild with reservoir and new pulley. Drops right in
Rear Differential Re-Seal 10/15 mins with fresh gear oil
New front brake calipers Are they leaking, or is this precautionary? If leaking you want to replace now for the wife. take a wheel off and have her press the brake pedal and look at the rubber seals. If anything is wet in that area, or if you can see fluid leak from the rubber boots then they're leaking.
Front Brake Rotors resurface, and brake pads
Brake Fluid change Flush if calipers are good
New Radiator (has a leak) & coolant flush With water pump removed and power steering pump out it's pretty simple
Drive belt, tensioner & idler pulleys Have to remove these anyways
Water pump, thermostat, hoses Last one I did was 2 hours in my garage while the GF waited to go 4 wheeling
Sway bar boots No alignment needed
F&R control arm bushings will need an alignment with these. How bad are they, cracked/missing rubber? I know a temp fix for these if you're interested.

Oil change mind as well


Also when I bought my TDI I did the Costco pricing, then subtracted 1.5 grand. Took 4 dealer until one took that price.

Quick update - deed is done. We got what we were asking for trade-in value on a CX-3. Wife loves the color and creature comforts. With S-Plan pricing and trade we ended up out the door for less than our initial budget, plus a lower APR for the OEM incentives.