Gun experts- how to clean up this very old stock ?

[rfuerst911sc]

A few weeks ago I posted on here that I had picked up a Mauser rifle built in 1899. Today I disassembled her to start really looking her over. I am amazed how simple a design it is an how easy she came apart. I pulled the bolt action out, looked down the barrel and was quite surprised it was fairly clean. Ran a brush thru her then some swabs with CLP and it cleaned up very well. I then turned to the stock. This stock very well could be the original but I have no way of knowing for sure. I took a rag with CLP on it and rubbed her down, a good amount of crud came off and I found some hidden shine . What kind of finish would this have if it really is circa 1899 ? It is shiny on the forearm and from the cheek area to the butt, but the area where you generally carry a rifle in the center has no gloss. I'm sure there is all kinds of skin oils and who knows what in that area. Color is generally a reddish oak or mahogany to my eye but no expert. My guess is the finish might be shellac. I do not want to completely restore this rifle but give her a good clean up. So what should I do to the stock ? Can I rub it down with 0000 steel wool with some oil ? Wood polish ? Also there is a hairline crack where the receiver/trigger mount that I can spread apart with force. Is wood glue what I should use or an epoxy or ? I would think wood glue might flow down into the crack better than epoxy. Any advice is appreciated.

[emcon5]

The original military stock would have had an oil finish, Linseed or Tung oil most likely. It is hard to tell from the pics you posted in the other thread, is it a cut down military stock or an aftermarket sporter one?

Depending on where the crack is, there are a couple ways to fix them. I have had a couple Mausers that the stock was cracked on the bottom, between the hole for the trigger and the hole for the magazine/floor plate here:



It is a pretty easy fix with epoxy and some threaded brass rod.



Best part is that it is hidden by the floor plate, can't tell it is there.

[black_falcon]

Pics??

If collectible:


Dont sand it.

Light 0000 wool after a gentle bath with Murphys Oil Soap.

BLO or Howard's to finish and protect the wood.

Do no more.

[rfuerst911sc]

Emcon5 that is exactly where mine is cracked what do you use to make the grooves in the wood that the brass threaded rod is sitting in ? That is slick and makes perfect sense. I don't know this rifle enough to know if it is a cut down military stock or a sporter. I forgot about linseed or tung oil. If I were to use linseed oil should I use boiled ? Brush it on and work it in with a rag ? Any advantage one way or the other on using linseed vs. tung ?

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by black_falcon

Pics??

If collectible:


Dont sand it.

Light 0000 wool after a gentle bath with Murphys Oil Soap.

BLO or Howard's to finish and protect the wood.

Do no more.

Black falcon to me it is not a collectible but maybe it is. I bought it to occasionally shoot and just to admire the old world craftsmanship. Good tip about the Murphys oil soap. What is BLO or Howards ? I tried to attach pics earlier it didn't work. I'll try again. Thanks

[john walker's workshop]

And don't put that linseed rag in the trash!!

[rfuerst911sc]

Must be something going on with my phone I've never had a problem posting pics in the past.

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

And don't put that linseed rag in the trash!!

Yep saw that first hand when working in a millwork shop many years ago. Instant combustion I would not have believed it had I not seen it with my own eyes.

[emcon5]

Yours is probably a modified military stock, do a Google Image search for "Mauser Modelo Argentino 1891" and compare the shape and details of the original stocks to yours. No telling what was applied to it over the past ~118 years.

BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) is fine, and dries quicker, but you need to make sure whatever is on it won't keep the oil from soaking in to the wood. Hopefully some numbnut didn't put a polyurethane finish on it.

For the crack I used a high speed cutter on my Dremel, I cut channels across the crack about halfway through the wood, making sure I didn't go too deep, or slip and chew up part of the stock outside the inletting:


I cut a piece of threaded brass rod to the length of the channels:


I used Devcon 2 Ton epoxy,


I put the epoxy into the channels and then flexed the stock as much as possible to try and work the epoxy into the crack. I then put the pieces of brass rod into the channel, clamped the stock and then filled the channels the rest of the way, level to the wood.


Here are the photos you posted in the other thread:

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

[rfuerst911sc]

Dremel........duh I should have thought of that ! Great tips thanks. What diameter threaded rod did you use ? Is it real small like 6/32 or 8/32 ? I just took some new pics and adjusted some setting on my phone so hopefully this time the pics will take. I doubt there is anything on the stock other than an oil finish.

[74-911]

Originally Posted by emcon5

Yours is probably a modified military stock, do a Google Image search for "Mauser Modelo Argentino 1891" and compare the shape and details of the original stocks to yours. No telling what was applied to it over the past ~118 years.

In 1961-62 when I was 15 or so I bought a 1891 7.65MM Argentine Mauser at a Montgomery Wards store in Abilene, TX. It had been "sporterized", i.e. barrel shortened and stock cut down. It looked exactly as the Mauser shown in the picturs. Don't recall how much I paid for it but not much and I just walked in and paid cash for it... imagine doing that now ... no background check, no questions about my age., just if you've got the money just pick out which one you want. ?? What I distinctly remember about it was the quality of the rifle... no stamped parts, very high quality machined machined parts and very good fit and finish...

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Must be something going on with my phone I've never had a problem posting pics in the past.

No. I can't post from Ohio. tirwin can't from Georgia. You can't from Georgia. emcon5 can from Reno.

Wayne installed servers this weekend?

[id10t]

I'd either use low heat (black plastic trash bags in full sun) and then aggressively wipe off with shop towel to get some oil/crud off. Then see where you sit. Nothing wrong with an old war horse having some character.

I'd also look at what a replacement stock would cost... or if the rifle was modified enough to not make a replacement stock work (ie, bent bolt handle, etc. for scope). If rifle is as-issued if the current stock is truly nasty I'd either just replace it or strip it with citristrip and refinish - that is what I did wtih the last nasty stock I got (Ruger 10/22 walnut from '76, was so nasty I had to soak the receiver in mineral spirits to get it degunked)

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

No. I can't post from Ohio. tirwin can't from Georgia. You can't from Georgia. emcon5 can from Reno.

Wayne installed servers this weekend?

Interesting. I just sent an email with the same pics attached that I was trying to post here and no problem.

[DanielDudley]

In the art and antique world, a mix of boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and kerosene, in equal parts is often used for cleaning furniture and paintings. Another very effective cleaner is white mechanics hand cleaner without the pumice, like Go Jo. That can often pull dirt without hurting a finish.

Always start small, and in the worst part of the problem area.

[black_falcon]

So I also have an 1891 Argentine Mauser and from those photos it looks like your stock has been shaved down in the front. Even when original they don't bring more than $300-400. If the crest on the top of your receiver has been ground, the rifle likely saw action in the Chaco War.

My dad purchased my rifle from Sears in 1961. I'll have to ask him if he remembers how much they paid for it. Probably not more than $5-10. I just recently found some old surplus 7.65mm Argentine Ammo for it, can't wait to go shooting

[fred cook]

This is just a test to see if I can upload pics from here in Georgia.

Three special order Marlin rifles from (top to bottom) 1902, 1906 and 1899


Nope, didn't work!

[id10t]

Originally Posted by fred cook

This is just a test to see if I can upload pics from here in Georgia.

Three special order Marlin rifles from (top to bottom) 1902, 1906 and 1899


Nope, didn't work!

Location won't matter for uploading... it may be the new db servers that Wayne set up

Appears to be giving a 404 error when looking for the file so I'm guessing the upload DB part is working but the file isn't being stored (completely or even a partial) on the actual file server.

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by black_falcon

So I also have an 1891 Argentine Mauser and from those photos it looks like your stock has been shaved down in the front. Even when original they don't bring more than $300-400. If the crest on the top of your receiver has been ground, the rifle likely saw action in the Chaco War.

My dad purchased my rifle from Sears in 1961. I'll have to ask him if he remembers how much they paid for it. Probably not more than $5-10. I just recently found some old surplus 7.65mm Argentine Ammo for it, can't wait to go shooting

I paid $200.00 for the rifle and my intent was not to flip or think I was going to make big money on it. I just liked the way it looked and felt in my hand. Being of German ancestory it just spoke to me. I have no problem putting some time and money into her to make her presentable. I think I will fix the crack in the stock first, then attack with some 0000 steel or brass wool and some Murphys. If that doesn't clean her up then boiled linseed oil. The more I look at her the more I realize it's not that bad it's just the center section that is the darkest. I guess it's just from being carried/handled. I'm sure she will clean up nicely. I recently bought ammo for her from Ammoseek it was .79 per round for new Privi . I need to pick up some stripper clips and then I'd like to get her to the range to see what the old gal can do. It probably shoots better than I can

[emcon5]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Dremel........duh I should have thought of that ! Great tips thanks. What diameter threaded rod did you use ? Is it real small like 6/32 or 8/32 ? I just took some new pics and adjusted some setting on my phone so hopefully this time the pics will take. I doubt there is anything on the stock other than an oil finish.

I don't remember, and in reality the size is not all that important, it is essentially serving the same function as rebar in concrete, the threads give the epoxy something to grab on to. You can even use machine screws, just cut the heads off.

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

No. I can't post from Ohio. tirwin can't from Georgia. You can't from Georgia. emcon5 can from Reno.

Wayne installed servers this weekend?

I didn't use the forum to upload those, I already had them on my web hosting. In fact I did the whole writeup for another forum, I just copied and pasted it here (that is how I did it so fast).

If it was my rifle, I would clean off any dirt/grime, then give it a oil scrub finish, as described here: Surplusrifle Forum • View topic - BLO Finish with an Oil Scrub

The only thing I would do different, I would not use paste wax, but "Gunny Paste" AKA "Tom's 1/3 Mix", which is a equal part mixture of pure beeswax, Boiled Linseed Oil and Turpentine. You can buy it or make it yourself.

The stock I fixed the crack on is on a Soviet Capture German K98k, that had the nasty flaking shellac finish over God knows what, could have been old motor oil. I spend a couple days trying to clean it with little result, before I gave up and used (of all things) Scrubbing Bubbles bathroom cleaner with a nylon scrub brush. This is how it looked finally cleaned up:



And after I did the BLO oil scrub (6 or 7 coats) followed by Gunny Paste:




As to Stripper clips, you don't need them to load the rifle, you can load them one at a time. A quick Google search says Mauser 98 stripper clips will work, but you may need to file the bumps off the sides. If you want, PM me your snail mail address, I can send you a handful of Romanian 8mm stripper clips.