12v power supply for the garage to test stuff...

[Pazuzu]

Does anyone use a stand along 12v DC power supply to test our automotive things? Maybe a variable voltage, 5A-ish output supply?
Amazon has a few variable voltage ones in the sub-$50 range, but all seem to be 2amp. I see a few dedicated 13.8V DC supplies in the 5-6 amp range, mostly used to run CB radios at home. Are those good enough? Is 13.8V close enough to 12v that it won't risk electronic systems (like, for example, a/f ratio sensors)? I know that our system generally runs around 13, but I'd hate to destroy something running at 13.8 and find out that's maxing it out.

Anyone have a favorite power box? What about just clipping into the alegator clips on my recharger

[jpk]

13.8 volts is the nominal output from most alternators, so it'll be just fine to run most anything for the car.

Most chargers are too smart to let you use them as a power supply.

I usually use a 12volt battery. I have a few that are handy, like from the lawn tractor or my trailer winch.

[Pazuzu]

Amazon.com: Schumacher PC-6 120AC to 6A 12V DC Power Converter: Automotive 12V, 6A, cut off the silly cigarette lighter end and put some clips on...

http://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-HY-1502-Power-Supply-1-5/dp/B003EGYRP6 Variable, but not enough amps...

2 amps, even 5 amps will do most stuff, but we do still have some 5-10 amp systems that I might want to run.

[SilberUrS6]

Back when Radio Shack was still a thing, I bought a 12V power supply for my automotive testing. Plugged into the wall, and had plugs for test leads.

[fastfredracing]

To test general 12 v automotvie devices, like fuel pumps, light fixtures, window motors , relay's etc,..., there is no better tool than the "power probe"
It is by far, one of the most useful tools I have in my electrical arsenal.
You can fry a pcm if you are not careful and poking around in the wrong circut by accident.
It tests for power and ground, supplies power and ground, and also has an extra ground lead for testing things .
love it

[dad911]

You can use an old PC power supply for 12v. Also Server supplies, and switching supplies are fairly cheap for led/undercabinet lighting.

Understand the current requirements you need. Fuse the output. I would suspect that although with an alternator on, car voltage is closer to 13.8, a cheap 12v supply would do anything.

[jpk]

It would help to know what kinds of stuff you want to run. That Schumaker supply is intended to replace a 12 volt source for something like an electric icebox; it's likely a switching mode supply with very basic regulator and filtering on the output. It can run stuff like a light or fan motor without any issues, but it might not run electronic stuff cleanly (or possibly not at all).

[Pazuzu]

For example, just got an AEM air fuel gauge. Want to check out the color options and ranging and such before going through the whole process of mounting it and connecting it to underdash wiring. So, need a 12-ish volt supply with leads that I can work with.

Or, maybe testing a taillight or headlight receptacle that I just rebuilt, which would be less concerned with how clean the power is, but the amp requirement would be much higher.

Or, testing a sensor and gauge to verify the gauge output based on the sensor voltage (maybe manifold temp sensor for EFI?).

Or the dozens of times that you're wiring a new bulb in place or checking why your MSD keeps blowing fuses, without having to fab up some sort of test leads connected to the battery just to get a basic 12V system checked.

The variable supply would be great for sensor testing...

[Pazuzu]

Originally Posted by SilberUrS6

Back when Radio Shack was still a thing, I bought a 12V power supply for my automotive testing. Plugged into the wall, and had plugs for test leads.

I might find something at Microcenter, but I find that if amazon doesn't have something in the first 2 pages, then I ain't gonna find it locally either.

[1990C4S]

An old battery with a $5 Harbor Freight float charger is your cheapest solution.

[tyro]

Astron makes some really nice ones: Astron Corporation

Tripp Lite also makes a few: DC Power Supplies | Tripp Lite

[aschen]

amost anything 12v ish would work for you. You can buy something as cheap as as this or get something fancier:

http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Switching-Adapter-Security-Amplifier/dp/B0026SUMNY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456178989&sr=8-1&keywords=12+switching+power+supply+banana+plugs

Some of the 50ish power supplies have current and voltage limiting which is nice, but Im not sure if you need that

[winders]

How many amps do you need? I like this unit since it has adjustable voltage and noise:

Amazon.com: TekPower TP30SWII 30 Amp DC 13.8V Analog Switching Power Supply with Noise Offset: Electronics

[Mark Henry]

Originally Posted by dad911

You can use an old PC power supply for 12v. Also Server supplies, and switching supplies are fairly cheap for led/undercabinet lighting.

Understand the current requirements you need. Fuse the output. I would suspect that although with an alternator on, car voltage is closer to 13.8, a cheap 12v supply would do anything.

^this

You can make it pump out both 12v and 5 volts. Should power everything but the starter.

Computer Power Supply into a Bench Power Supply | Make:

[Tobra]

Don't you have a car out there?

[id10t]

3rd vote for a computer PSU

[mreid]

I use a 10 amp battery charger. Cheap and effective.

[SoCal911T]

Originally Posted by tyro

Astron makes some really nice ones: Astron Corporation

That's what I have and it works great (although it weighs a ton).

[Shaun @ Tru6]

I use a battery jump starter pack to test used car stereo equipment I get on eBay/CL as well as fuel pumps, HVAC fans, stuff like that. Made a few sets of connection leads with spade connectors and a variety of alligator and larger clips that plug in to them.

Works great.

[Baz]

Find an old low voltage landscape lighting transformer...their output is 12v. Small, fairly lightweight, and inexpensive.

You could make some of those leads like Shaun has above for it and you're set.