Where would you start laying laminate floor on this layout?
 

This is a level in my house. The top stair leading to the lower level will have a piece of flush nose trim on it -- shouldn't I start there to ensure a full width piece will butt up to it? If I didn't start there, I would end up with an odd width row running the width of the room correct? Thanks in advance,
Christian

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1462681996.jpg

Assuming a 'click together' floating floor, I would start at the top of your diagram going down, so you don't have to try to click the floor together backwards after going around the wall. Measure the width of pattern, and make sure you won't have a thin sliver in front of the stairs. If so, rip the first board accordingly.

Make sure the starting and ending walls are parallel, or split the difference if they are not.

find center cross point on length and width. do the "thin sliver test" to be sure to avoid that result. If you pass the quiz, start from center and work out.

Me, I'd do as dad suggests if it's a typical floating floor. On a 3/4" nailed down floor it's easy to reverse directions with the tongue& groove, not so much with some of the others IMO...YMMV.

Have you purchased the material for this?

I lay down some of the material on the floor so you can get an idea how it is going to layout.
can you run the long dimension from without cutting much at the partition wall?
How wide is the long dimension? Some laminate floors manufacturers suggest having an expansion joint to allow for movement due to temperature change.

The longest wall and DONT buy anything that swells with water like pergo crap. I put this rubber stuff in kitchen and love it. My flooring pro put this stuff over hardwood in his own house. Great stuff. Scud missile won't hurt it. Anything made of ground up wood pulp and glue is chit.

Don't forget to leave the manufacturer's recommended end gap (clearance to wall). Dealing with this after-the-fact is a ***** ..

If I was laying laminate, I would do as Dad suggests. You never reverse click together floating flooring. You can do all sorts of things with T&G.

I do flooring for a living. I determine the most exposed line of sight and make that straight. Always try to measure off an outside wall as these are usually straight. If there are any small or out of square cuts have them go where furniture will hide them.
In your case I would take lots of measurements and get that stair nosing piece as square as possible. It will always be exposed. One can put in a click floor in reverse but it takes more time. If it makes the job come out better I do it.

Thanks guys that all helps. I'll post final pics. If it turns out ok:D