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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 3,111
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Brake & fuel lines - DIY fab/replacement
I have finally been getting done what I've wanted to do for years but never quite did, and my old Sentra SE-R is running and driving again. I love the hell out of this car. While spending time under it over past weekends, I did notice that there is some non-trivial corrosion on some of the brake and fuel hard lines. Since I am bringing this car back to a condition of go-anywhere reliability, I will want to address this. Of course I can take it to the shop I use for stuff I can't do myself (like AC work, tires) or don't want to do (nasty rusted or broken hardware) and have them do it. But I have been mostly DIY for 20 years or so. Is this worth doing yourself? On paper rolls of the right lines, a tubing bender, flaring tool and fittings will get it done for me. If it's not that hard I'll probably do it myself. If it's a pain, I probably won't (I love working on my cars, but the older I get the more I like spending more time driving them and less time wrenching on them). What do those of you who have done this have to say?
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'80 SC Targa Avondale, Chicago, IL |
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04-06-2016, 09:39 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Valencia Pa.
Posts: 8,851
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I do this stuff every day. While it is not hard in theory, it is rusty , dirty pain in the arse work. Rust in your eyes,brake fluid running down your arms into your pits . Plan on a few days, if you are doing the whole car . They make compression unions that are DOT legal for brake lines now, that may make your life easier . I try to do all my runs in one piece .
Sometimes bleeding can be a nightmare, although the little nissan should not give you any troubles . Buy the good copper nickely alloy line, it is super nice to work with and worth its weight in gold. The little flare tool kits that you guy make me mad ... Depending on how rusty it is, you may end up buying calipers and wheel cylinders. I always try to get the bleeders open first thing, and then I know exactly what I will need .
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No left turn un stoned |
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04-06-2016, 10:17 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,702
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I have done some minor hardline fab on some off road projects. Use the double flare tool...
Definitely messy as mentioned
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dolor et pavor Copyright |
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04-06-2016, 10:24 AM
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Recreational Mechanic
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Eastwood has some decent bending/flare tools for a decent price. I have used them.
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P Cars: 2022 Macan GTS / One empty garage space ---- Other cars: 2019 Golf R 6MT / 2021 F-250 Diesel / 2024 Toyota GR86 6MT ---- Gone: 1997 Spec Boxster Race Car, 2020 GT4, 2004 GT3, 2003 Carrera, 1982 911SC, 2005 Lotus Elise and lots of other non-Porsches PCA National DE Instructor #202106053 / PCA Club Racing / WRL Endurance Racing |
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04-06-2016, 10:59 AM
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The Unsettler
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Lantanna TX
Posts: 23,885
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Did my JEEP from front to back.
Really enjoyed the project. But I also had the body off frame which makes a huge difference.
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"I want my two dollars" "Goodbye and thanks for the fish" "Proud Member and Supporter of the YWL" "Brandon Won" |
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04-06-2016, 11:24 AM
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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 6,136
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 I am gaining some experience working with fuel & brake hardlines, so can offer a bit of advice. The copper-nickel alloy lines available through many parts stores are highly recommended. Porsche and Mercedes have been using this material for brake lines for at least 20 years. A lot more expensive than the steel lines, but easier to work with & assemble and most importantly they are corrosion proof. For fuel hardlines I use the brand "Cunifer". They are the same copper-nickel alloy but available in the larger Metric sizes and suitable for the long lines that run under the floor of the 924 and 928 and 944, etc. Though this might help. Len
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05-19-2016, 05:36 PM
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911SC 3.0
