Do 1911s Have To Be Run Wet?
 

I think I've finally figured out how to get my 1911 to run reliably. It seems to need considerable lubrication. I'm stupid, I know. But my other guns don't need to be run wet. Do your 1911s require lots of lube to be reliable?

I use Miltec 1 on an all stainless 1911. I use an acid brush to put the least amount on I can. Runs great. Which gun oil are you using?

After cleaning I just spray a little Rem Oil on the parts and wipe off the excess before putting it back together. I don't have any issues with my Gold Cup Match or my FDE Gov. I certainly wouldn't consider it "wet".

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I was using grease on rails and lugs, because that's what the seller told me to do, way back when. But gun had a problem with failure to eject. Empty would end up trapped in the ejection port, usually pointing forward. I replaced recoil springs, made sure my grip was firm, no help. I recently started shooting it again, started having the same problems. Borrowed some gun oil from another shooter, dripped oil on extractor and other stuff an empty case would touch, and no more malfs. I need to put lots more rounds through it to be sure, though. Dunno what oil I borrowed, he had put it in a teeny cologne bottle. At home I have: Gunslick, Triflow, bike chain lube, 5W-20, ATF, synthetic bearing grease, WD40, I think that's about it for lube choices.

Having fun at the range again. Going to get my Luger working, have a replacement extractor ready to go in.

Thinking about buying a Hi-Power. Bunch of ex-cop HiPowers hitting Gunbroker now for $500. And saw a beautiful, >99% Belgian HiPower with factory adjustable sights, in box, at a local gun shop for $1600.

My best gun remains my old Glock 19 Gen 1. Have had that thing since new, maybe 1987? For my hands, it is accurate. Here's a full magazine at 50 feet, on a rifle target (I'm cheap and shoot at one piece of paper for the whole hour). First time I'd shot it in a year, felt like I'd never stopped. First shot was high left, second was low, after that the gun started getting its groove.

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The taped-up .22 holes are from my Single-Six, which is a terribly inaccurate gun for me, considering the 7.5" barrel you'd think it would be a tack driver, but for me it's more of a point & pray.

Hi Powers are fun. I'm on my 3rd, a 1951 Belgian E-series. It was like $500 on gun broker.

Mine runs best when oiled with a nice thin oil and plenty of it, and reasonably clean. It's a gunsmith built gun so tolerances are quite tight.

I run my 1911 lubed very sparingly.

What is the temperature where and when you shoot? Grease is better in warmer climates. If you were having FTE and a few drips of oil in the extractor and those areas, maybe you were simply under or un-lubed all along.

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Maybe. My RIA in 45 didn't need a lot of lube, neither did my perfect scale model Llama in 380. My GSG 1911-22 needed to be near drippy.

FWIW with the cost of 45 ammo I sold them off and bought a CZ 75 BD in 9mm

Variety of opinions but I went with Larry Vicker's mantra on 1911s, you can run it dirty but you cant run it dry...mine is very visibly lubed.

Is it a real Gen 1 G19?

There are about 20 known to exist. They were made for the Kansas Dept of Alcoholic Beverage Control. They were G17 frames cut down by Glock to fit the new slide and mags. One recently sold on GB for $6,725.00

The 1st batch to hit the public were actually Gen 2's.

Oh, then its a Gen 2, but everyone refers to them as Gen 1s.

Gen 1 - production started in 1988. Gen 2 started later that same year.

Some say they're only 16 outside of the ones owned by Glock.

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"Lubed sparingly" is how I would describe all of my guns. By no means "wet" or "dry", they are lubed and all excess is wiped off. I've found the lighter weights of Mobil 1 to be excellent gun oils, by the way. They never dry and get gummy, which also affects function.

My favorite filming oil is Boeshield. Spray, wipe leaves a very light waxy film. They invented it for airplanes. Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication

Hmm. I think I'd like to try this. One quart will be a lifetime supply. What weight do you run? 0W-20W, 0W-40W?

sounds like the perfect SHTF gun.

Pretty much all of the other stuff out there is snake oil. Not literally, but close - several of the uber-expensive gun oils are just rebottled Crisco.

I'd be interested to see a study performed by Lubey to expose all of that BS. The scientific method is something that is sorely missing from the gun oil carnival.

I use the 0W-20.

I first noticed this phenomena about 25 years ago when I was still an avid cyclist. There were all kinds of magic mystery lubricants on the market back then, all touted as being the schizz for bicycle applications. One day a buddy showed up with about a two ounce bottle of "Phil's Tenacious Oil" that had cost him about ten bucks. Soon as he squeezed some out I recognized it for what it was - plain old 80W-90 gear oil. It has a pretty distinctive smell. I just chuckled as I imagined "Phil" in his garage, with a 55 gallon drum of gear oil, laughing all the way to the bank as he pumped two ounces each into those little bottles. Ten bucks apiece... Brilliant...

So, yeah - Mobile 1 is the best gun oil I have found to date. I use it in my MFI pump that is isolated from the engine oil supply (like the old "red top" RSR pumps) on my 911 motor. I only put 12 ounces in there, so always plenty left over for "gun oil".

I use ordinary ole Safariland Breakfree CLP. Works well and a bottle lasts, umm, five or ten years. I also use it on window hinges and as a general purpose oil around the house and car.

Mine came with a small amount of Shooters Choice, but I know several that use Mobile 1 on their semi autos, not just the 1911.

If you get it too wet it just throws the extra oil everywhere.

+1

I use to mix it with ATF, but didn't see a huge difference, so just plain M1 is great (currently using the 0-40 stuff).

However, I think I'll be switching to a food-grade synthetic soon. Mainly due to the smell of the M1, and the fact that it's probably not the best stuff to be coming into skin-contact with and/or inhaling.


Also: The "needle" oiler bottles you can get from Brownells makes things easier and less messy.

You'll need a rife to go with that.
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