I never turn rotors any more, waste of time and money.

I buy premium rotors from here:

Discount Auto Parts Online Store - New Auto Parts Factory Outlet Prices

Cheap and very good.

I have found that my wife can warp OE BMW , Brembo, and Zimmerman almost as fast as she warps el cheapo advance auto parts rotors on our 3 series . While they do last slightly longer, really cannot say if the near double cost is worth it .

I'll throw this out there.... I read/watched something a while ago which said very few rotors actually warp, and that the shaking is due to the uneven application of pad material on the rotor. I always bed new pads for this reason. It may be worth while to "sand" the surface of the rotor, put on new pads, and properly bed them in. Having said that, I have seen warped rotors. Also, proper torque sequence and specs are important



EDIT: What BeepBeep said. LOL

Just another thought.... look for sticking pistons in the caliper. I have had 2 Toyota vehicles, around 75K miles with a stuck piston. Again, just a thought.

I'd check the calipers as well. Putting on new rotors might be loosening them up and then they stick again.

Here is how we used to do the brakes on my vintage 914-6 race car even after it was converted to use Brad's vented rotors and M calipers. Note these rotors did not float, they were bolted solid and I also follow these steps since I retired from racing with my Chevy HHR.
- Do one side at a time.
- Pull caliper loose and inspect the pads to see if they are sticking and also wearing even on both sides and front to rear.
- Clean out the brake dust with a powerful shop vac.
- Inspect rotor on both sides for any pad material. Mic the rotor in 6 or 8 places to find if wear is even. If not, find out why.
- Mount a dial indicator and measure rotor run out. If rotor is not worn to the outside edge, take reading from wear surface.
- While dial indicator is mounted try shaking rotor/hub to see if there is any bearing slop.
- If rotor needs replacement, make sure vent holes or gas slots face the right direction. We had gotten sets with two right sides or two left sides.
- Install rotors and torque bolts to factory specs, evenly. Check rotor runout as before. We had gotten a set of rotors that looked like they were machined in the mountains of Afghanistan! The thickness varied by nearly 1/16 inch!
- Check steel backing material of pads to insure no sharp edges and that they move freely in their side of the caliper. File as necessary for correct fit.
- Retract the piston(s) and insert the pads with a slight amount of high temp grease on the edges of the steel backing plate.
- Install the caliper and torque the bolts to spec.
- Have someone step on the brake pedal and watch the pads move in and out to insure they move freely. Spin the wheel hub to insure the rotor is free then remount the wheel.

Repeat for the other side.

I have found it easier to replace brakes and rotors once a year, than to point out the faults in her driving habits . Just throwing that out there

You are a wise man.

Funny. Thanks for the laugh. She's very good driver, fast and efficient. No left foot resting on the rotors. She drives sticks too and left foot off my clutch. Ordered rotors and pads for all 4 corners today so my mechanic can work his magic and deal with her now. I am off the hook

You're never off the hook.

hahaha, but that's was't what i wanted to hear:(