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Salvage / Rebuilt Titles

So assuming the car has been repaired well and that you don't plan to resell the car sooner rather than later what are the draw backs to buying a newer (2013 - 2016)used car with a salvage or rebuilt title

Are there any insurance issues or other "I didn't think of that" issues

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Old 09-05-2016, 07:35 AM
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I'd be scared to death of unsolved niggles. Eats tires, random lights on dash, and leaks.

Not to mention unless you sell it cheap, you'll own it forever.

rjp
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:37 AM
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Other than hidden crappy repairs, nothing. I have owned a few. These days the cost of replacing deployed airbags alone can total a car even if the body damage is easily repaired.

Honestly if you do not feel qualified to judge the quality of the repairs then maybe a rebuilt title car is not for you. Or find a friend who knows what they are looking at.

Google search your question, you will find tons or reading and opinions...probably the only 2 questions asked more often on automotive forums than this one is oil type or K&N air filters. LOL!! Remember as you read that opinions are not facts.
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:46 AM
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You will not be able to get a loan to purchase the car if that matters.
Old 09-05-2016, 08:06 AM
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I wanted to buy a Hard Top Corvette Coup and my insurance company talked me out of it. Check with your company.
Old 09-05-2016, 08:19 AM
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I've bought cars myself from insurance auctions and fixed them myself. I'm more confident in knowing the car than buying from somebody who flips wrecked cars.

What's the motivation? To drive a newer car at below market cost, or earn extra money by fixing cars on the cheap?

I'd stay away from the guy fixing on the cheap.
Old 09-05-2016, 09:15 AM
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My wifes 1997 VW Cabrio was totalled when she hit a deer. I knew it was just basic cosmetic work with a hood/fender, grille, windshield, and paint, so we bought it back and fixed it. We still keep it around for an emergency ride when another car is down.....it doesn't owe us anything.
Old 09-05-2016, 09:31 AM
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I've had several. The main thing is to make sure the car can be aligned to factory specs. If it can't be aligned don't buy it.

A good quick check is to measure from center to center on the wheels. The left side better match the right side....

If it were cheap and drove properly it wouldn't scare me off.

I assume it's a collision repair or theft? A 'flood' car might be a real headache....
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 1990C4S View Post
....

I assume it's a collision repair or theft? A 'flood' car might be a real headache....
Yep...Hurricane Sandy cars are everywhere too fwiw.
Old 09-05-2016, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantilla View Post
I've bought cars myself from insurance auctions and fixed them myself. I'm more confident in knowing the car than buying from somebody who flips wrecked cars.

What's the motivation? To drive a newer car at below market cost, or earn extra money by fixing cars on the cheap?

I'd stay away from the guy fixing on the cheap.




i've bought salvage title motorcycles, repaired them myself and had ****loads of fun.

almost bought a salvage SUV from an armenian car dealership. when i saw the headlight had been fixed back on with wood screws i walked.
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:40 AM
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Flood car has bacteria all over it. Be careful working on it....

rjp
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcar View Post
You will not be able to get a loan to purchase the car if that matters.
Not true. Depends on the dealer and its relationship with the bank. We've used an exotic car rebuilder (Executive Auto Gallery-not much in stock at the moment, but they often have a couple Ferraris, Porsches etc) and they have a bank that loans at competitive rates.

We have an A8 that was totaled due to a hydrolocked engine. We bought it at a very competitive price with a complete rebuild on the motor, and we've been happy.
I'd look for a shop that specializes in this, not some body shop or guy that does it on the side. Other than the resale hit, if you buy the car to drive, they're bargains. Oh, and flood cars? Again, its about the quality of the shop. The one noted above does mostly that, and they are VERY good at it. Also, keep in mind that "Sandy" cars are mostly off the market now.

Hail damage is another niche, believe it or not many new cars get totaled for hail.
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Last edited by greglepore; 09-05-2016 at 10:46 AM..
Old 09-05-2016, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 1990C4S View Post
A 'flood' car might be a real headache....
After all electrical connections and bearings have been submerged, I've been told the only reason to buy a flood car is to strip it down to the bare shell and build a race car.
Old 09-05-2016, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by KC911 View Post
Yep...Hurricane Sandy cars are everywhere too fwiw.
I know someone who knowingly bought one. It's a Civic that had under 20K miles at the time. When he got it...

- Leather is basically cardboard.
- Half the interior illumination was INOP
- A/C and radio controls INOP
- Most dash lights INOP
- The warning lights that were operable are triggered with no actual problem (low oil light on, but oil is not low)

More of the lights work, there's a replacement radio and the A/C works now but anything else electrical with the interior is a huge roll of the dice. Leather is really bad, like 1980s Mercedes stuff but harder. He's going to take a huge loss on this car.
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Old 09-05-2016, 04:20 PM
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My son in law has a side business where he buys flood damaged F-cars and McLarens and such for nothing and has them fixed and sold for a very tidy profit with salvage titles.
Old 09-05-2016, 06:24 PM
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I didn't think about flood damage but I am trying to avoid any cars from the north east

I am turning my VW in and getting about $14200 for it - I am wanting a Subaru BRZ or Scion FR-S. Ideally I want to buy one in cash with out spending too much more.

They seem to running between 16 and 20 for low mileage used ones with the salvage ones in the 10 to 12 range.

I know about checking to make sure they are put back together right and would likely take it to a Subaru shop or a well regarded body shop to have them check the work as well.

What I was mostly looking for was "the insurance company won't like it" while I intend to pay cash and don't intend to part with it for a very long time it is nice to know some one may not be able to get a loan on it.

And as noted I didn't think about flood damage cars so I need to really look for north east and south east cars (to be wary of)

My family tends to hang onto cars for a long while

I have had my 911 for 22 years, my First VW for 11 years (died in a head on) my wife drove her first Subaru for 14 years (just bought her a new one)

This current VW will be the shortest I have ever driven a car and that is going on 7 years
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:45 PM
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If the salvage title has been through the process to change it to rebuilt or clean, (depending on the state), there will be a paper trail of the initial damage. It could also be a stolen recovery that had zero damage, so finding that out should help you decide and fresh water floods aren't near as bad as salt water flood cars. Big difference.
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:51 PM
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I have a buddy that buys salvage cars and I have seen some with ZERO to $1000 damage, some theft recovery that were returned after 30 days and they can go to auction with a salvaged title. Some have police reports along with Insurance paper work, Some with huge discounts.
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osidak View Post
And as noted I didn't think about flood damage cars so I need to really look for north east and south east cars (to be wary of)
Just keep in mind flood cars can come from almost anywhere. Obviously inland flood cars will be freshwater, but still no bueno IMO. If you absolutely had to choose, then yes, freshwater is better than saltwater (all else being equal). However, I would still avoid them altogether. Even freshwater flood cars can be nightmares. With collisions/vandalism/etc. the extent of the damage is much easier to quantify (prior to repair). With flood cars, the depth, duration, source, and flow/current are usually unknowns.

I remember a guy who bought a Dodge Viper that was a freshwater flood car. It turned into a huge money pit. After chasing electrical gremlins, he still couldn't get the windows to go down. After subsequently taking off the door panels, there was 6-8" of sand/silt in the doors. Just imagine all of the other nooks/crannies that sand/silt was forced into. No thanks.

If you are going down the salvage-title road, I'd only consider vehicles that you could verify the damage (and repairs) on. I'd personally weed out all flood cars and anything that had airbag deployments and/or frame damage. On cars that have already been repaired, I'd want to see "before" pics and a paper trail. YMMV...
Old 09-05-2016, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by gshase View Post
I have a buddy that buys salvage cars and I have seen some with ZERO to $1000 damage, some theft recovery that were returned after 30 days and they can go to auction with a salvaged title. Some have police reports along with Insurance paper work, Some with huge discounts.
There was an organized crime ring with multiple crews that was taken down years ago. They would buy new-ish high-end cars, then strip body panels/parts just to the point where they would be totaled out. After ditching and reporting them stolen, they'd wait for the insurance auction, buy them back, and put the panels/parts back. Then it was just a matter of scrubbing the title (the days before Carfax) and bam, new car, plus the insurance check!

Old 09-05-2016, 11:11 PM
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