Suggestions on how this tile backsplash?
 

We just got our new counters put in today, so now I need to get on with the tile work. Only real kink in my plan is what to do around the window.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479536542.jpg

The yellow paint is going away too!

The plan is to run subway tile all the way up to the bottom of the cabinets, but next to the window should I run it all the way to the window in a straight line or? And do I tile inside the window sill, or tile all inside the window casing to the same level as the wall? And what to do at the bottom of the window? Suggestions?

Also, the old backsplash was hiding this mess, any suggestions on how to get this pushed flush so the tiles don't look crooked?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479536906.jpg



Using tiles like this
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479536824.jpg

A bigger problem is how do you keep water in your sink? :)

Hey Sid,

My suggestion would be to wrap the tile around the window and die into the window. Its a little more work but the result would be a more complete tile job instead of have a bare drywall space around the window. WE normally run our tile just about 1/4" up on the side of the kitchen cabinet

Notice the tile just sits under the cabinets but on the side it actually comes up just a little bit (best to use a full tile there. It looks better)

This was a house we restored and sold last year.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479541233.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479541351.jpg

I would run tile straight down from the inside edges of the cabinets to the level of the window sill. I love the bullnose corners around the window, and you would have to get rid of it to do a frame around the window as in the pics. The whole window area needs to be its own visual element. It would be a lot of work, but a window sill that matches the countertops would tie it all together.

Kerdi makes some nice plastic edging.
 

I'll try to attach photoshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479563382.jpg

One more
 

I'm curious what you use to fill in the voids and low spots. Drywall compound seems too flimsy to me.

I have a similar problem right now. I pulled off some ugly mirror on the backsplash, but the drywall is a huge mess that was hidden by silicone and mirror.

If I explain my secret to antigravity before the patent goes through, how will I afford my 918? ;)

This is what I'm thinking. How would you handle the edge since right now the drywall is rounded off? I'm thinking if I try to square it off with tile, then I'll have an odd edge at the top. is there a round tile that would wrap?

Will be hard to match the counters as we bought them from a remnant yard and don't know the color name. It had no labels, and they used it all for the counters. Going to have to go tile.

Yep, you should be able to get full tiles with radiused edges, or dedicated end-cap pieces with the same radius. If going that route, I'd tile in the entire window sill/ledge to the same height as the rest of the backsplash (which I would make slightly higher than the bottom of the cabinets). You can also add a top border piece to the whole thing and/or a decorative edge to the bottom of the window sill area.

If you are able to find more of the granite you used for the counters, you could cut a shelf piece for the window ledge, with a bullnose edge. That would look pretty sharp. Have fun...

Don't you need GFCI outlets there?

AFAIK:

1. It depends on the year the house was built as far as code-compliance goes.
2. As long as there's at least 1 GFCI outlet on that circuit (and it's the most "upstream"), you should be fine.

That said, if permits were pulled for a remodel then everything should have to meet the new/current regs.

There's two GFIs in the kitchen that all the other outlets are tied into, so it's up to code. :)

I got some nice corner pieces and it looks like it will work. Just have tons of cutting to do now! 8 outlets to cut around! :Eek:

Hey Sid, they are called Bullnose tile. It has one finished or rounded edges. Or it can be finished with 1/4 rounds. Bullnose seem to be more modern then the traditional quarter rounds.

I do not know if you already decided to use tiles, but here is an idea:

After tiling numerous kitchens, I got tired of grout been discoloured by cooking splash behind the hob and this time used tempered glass around whole kitchen desk. I actually have the same kitchen wallpaper behind the glass as well. Glass panes are sealed underneath (towards the stone desk) so no water can leak behind it.

We had it for three years now and it has been absolutely perfect and easy to clean. Any kind of food splash is just wiped off with wet tissue, and that's it.

I used 6mm thick tempered glass for safety (=breaks into zillion small cubes instead of sharp shards). Tempering adds 5x the cost but it is a safety issue.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479629952.jpg

Mrs. WD says tile straight down from the cabinet edges and make a slightly protruding matching tile window ledge. She agrees it will look goofy to tile straight across. Alternatively, put in a shorter window ( I told her I'm the only person she could talk into doing something that expensive and work intensive.)

Simple solution would be to put in a marble windowsill that juts out and has slight ears to the sides. Then run a subway tile with a bullnose on the 3'' side up each side of the window, leaving the current bullnode on the window edge exposed about 1/8''.

Very simple and elegant. Easy to do if you make all your cuts with a wet saw. You ,may have to remove some material from the bottom to get the marble where you want it.

Lots of good suggestions. The problem I see if you decide to tile the sides of the window opening and have it die at the window, you will have a problem with your window treatment--you won't be able to use a treatment that fits inside the window opening as you currently have because the with of the opening will be wider above the level of the tile.

True, I am under the impression that he's going to get rid of that? Just cut if on the chopsaw, problem solved.